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If it's pressed into the knuckle upside down hows a jack under the control arm going to help?

Even though you have done a smoke test and visually checked everythng. I would still be tempted to replace some of the rubber pipes in the lines from the purge valve to the rear of the vehicle and those on the vapor cannister. The one causing problems on my 2002 is just inside the rocker panel...

My bushes were completely destroyed at 140,000 km the inner was separated from the outer shell, the ball joint had about 1/4" of up down movement. I fitted a cheap Taiwanese arm which has only done about 4,000km so far, but it seems to be holding up. I have pressed Moog bushes and a Moog problem...

Taking a litre of oil to get to the correct level sounds worrying.

Guess I was just unlucky then, the outer pinion bearing race and rollers had some pitting, only in two spots on the race, but the howling was really loud.

Sounds like it could be the rear UCA.

Have you had no diff problems in that 200,000 miles? I have an OME lift and am at 85,000 miles, half of those with the lift. My rear UCA ball joint and bushes are completely shot and I need new pinion bearings. I think the UCA being worn out is common with the lift, but could the exagerated...

I don't tow at all, but recently put 75W140 in both diffs, it's just easier buying one type of oil.

The manual specifies 75W140 for the front diff, 75W90 for the rear, unless you tow a lot, in which case use 75W140 as well.

I have an OME lift from JBA with his UCA's. I got fed up with badly done alignments and got a "Specialty Products Company 91000 FasTrax Camber/Caster Gauge for Wheels from 13" to 18" from Amazon. I adjusted the camber and caster and just took it in for toe adjustment. I think a lot of places...

I was thinking it would be useful for something, but I couldn't separate the shaft from the CV axle so I left it together as the core return.

My 02 has never used a noticeable amount of oil between 6,000mile changes, until recently it has started to use maybe 1 qrt over that interval. Just coming up on 80,000miles.

When I replaced the solenoid I stripped down the starter just to check it out. It was in surprisingly good condition for a 17 year old motor. The brushes, commutator and bearings all looked good. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Do you here the solenoid click? I recently had starting problems, but could hear the solenoid click, but not pass current to the starter motor. I just replaced the solenoid, which cost me about $22. The starter will come out with a bit of wiggling around. The FSM says to disconnect the...

Well how about that, you're right the Duralast from Autozone are Cardone. I've attached a picture, but with such severe restrictions on file size, the resolution has probably been reduced so much you can't read it. I compared the length of my original and the Autozone remans and they are the...

I'll put my money on scenario 1., just don't want to be in the position of having it dismantled then finding I need the CV axle.

I was referring to the axle shaft between the two CV's, not the intermediate shaft.

The Cardone's I've seen on Amazon are listed as new, not reman's. The annoying thing is that my CV joints are in good condition, I just have a huge amount of slack where the CV joint meets the intermediate shaft. Seems like an odd design adding another join that can wear out. Is it the shaft...

I got the intermediate shaft from Amazon, and that's were I've seen the Cardone CV shaft. I think the Duralast are reman's but like I said, I wouldn't put any faith in them.

I know a lot of you don't recommend using the Cardone Select 66-3352, but here in Mexico the only alternatives I've found are Duralast (which I have even less faith in) or Mopar from the stealership (they wanted US $400 just for the intermediate shaft). Can't get NAPA shafts here. What I...