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anyone?

I am having some of the same issues here in my 2004 Liberty V6. I got some advice from the dood at Autozone and it does not seem to corroborate with that of this thread. can anyone help me out? the Autozone code reader says: P0137 Definition HO2S12 circuit condition (heated oxy sensor bank...

I am having some of the same issues here in my 2004 Liberty V6. I got some advice from the dood at Autozone and it does not seem to corroborate with that of this thread. can anyone help me out? the Autozone code reader says: P0137 Definition HO2S12 circuit condition (heated oxy sensor bank 1...

thanks again for your help. I didn't think it looked right. Good thing nothing is bolted tight yet. Just need to switch'em to the bottom. another quick question...I put all new stuff in (rack, hoses, return and pressure hoses), how hard with it be to purge and bleed system do you think...

2004 Liberty I got one of those re-manufactured Cardone R/P and now I am unsure of bushing placement. At first I put the bushing in from the topside. HOWEVER, I think I need to put them in from the bottom. Is the flange of the bushing supposed to go in between the R/P and frame? It does...

i am not sure if they have orings or not? regardless, any type of thread prep or not really? what if part is new? you need to take hard lines off to install rack...I do not necessarily need new orings if the part is new do i?

when removing the hard lines on the rack, is there any thread prep or anything you can put on the thread hard lines for added protection from leaking in the future?

maybe fluke. I might have done a heavy dose of water. I just bought the jeep and wanted to give a good cleaning and get a "baseline" now that I have it. :) it was a bit neglected and so I got it clean all right!! I will try to be a bit gentler on future engine bay cleansing

I hear what you're saying. But don't most people get stuff at the auto stores? I mean the rack was 600+ at dealership and about 280 at NAPA...big difference. The hoses at auto zone are about 80 for the pressure one and 20 for the return hose. I think the high pressure at dealership was 180!

thanks for these tips. well, I got higher quality MOOG tie-rods coming...at least I think they were higher quality, about 50 dollars each.

hey thanks for the heads up! well, I cannot afford an original part...do you think Autozone or Oreilleys would be better? I think AutoZone is Duralast and Oreilleys is Cardone too. what do you think? It is a lot of work for me too. Nothing has gone wrong yet but there have been a lot of mini...

why do you have to remove the hard lines from the steering rack? 13mm ones is only to help slide it out through wheel well? is it necessary?

I removed the pressure hose from bottom of pump already. If there was a sensor, do you mean it is attached to the pump as well? Because nothing else was on pump other than the return hose. 1) sounds like I do not have sensor, do you agree? 2) what is purpose of sensor? Why some...

Trying to put new rack, pump, and hoses in. Confused about some things... The high pressure hose loops up near driver side head light in engine bay and back down to rack. The 2 flexible parts are connected by a U-shaped hard line near head light. It is hard for to see the U-shaped hard line in...

thanks for checking back. I think you were originally right. I had to tow it to dealer and I feel like idiot. Had to listen to guy school me on how to wash an engine. whatev... Anyhow, I think it was primarily just condensation and wetness in each of the 6 coils. I removed one and test fit...

can you do this without undoing fan and upper cross member? the upper cross member on mine has rivets involved??? did you guys deal with rivets? maybe they are just plastic cheap rivets you can get at NAPA? any advice for the pump as well? also, the ball joint press I rented from Autozone...

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does craftsman sell ball joint presses do you think? yes i know you need to remove it...but I was not sure if it was threaded into spindle/knuckle? I bought a bigger hammer, will try tomorrow. it has a 10mm before threads start so wanted to make sure you didn't need wrench for it. I am...

anyone?

quick question... when you remove the tie rod end from the spindle, is it just the nut? or do you also have to put 10mm on bottom of ball link and unscrew that as well? things are pretty corroded. do i need a big hammer and beat it until it comes free? thanks