I just added a pair if Cibie 35 amber fogs to the frt. of my '06 KJ. I removed the grill and bumper cover, welded on two pcs. of 4x3in. steel plate to the bumper bar for the light brkt. I cut out some of the blk. plastic rein. for clearence, reinstalled the cover measured and marked light...
No, just fill up the engine after removing the plug, reinstall, start engine and set heater dial to max heat, watch temp gauge and heat output. My engine temp allways is to the left of TDC no matter if I tow or normal daily driving, Good luck.
It could be that your upper hinge is worn, you might be able loosen the two bolts on the piller side, not too much and than smack the hinge forward. use some kind of flat blade tool and place that against the hinge next to the piller and strike with a heavy hammer, good luck.
When you refilled the cooling did you remove the allen socket plug by the upper rad hose engine side? Let the engine cool and remove this plug and fill with coolant, your prob. could most likely be an air pocket.
I will look into this mod. After all of the rebuilds I have had 4 in 10,000mi. I am going to replace the CV-joint,boot assy. myself. Found one on Amazon (Dorman) I have hade the drivetrain checked out and no probs. can be found, so my thinking is the shop is useing a poor quality part. What...
After all that I have been through with this D-shaft I should have done it myself, then I would only have myself to blame. As far as a problem with the D-shaft if it is out of balance would this cause a problem with the boot? I don't feel any vibration when driving. On Mon. I will be speaking...
Well for the fourth time in 10,000 miles the rear boot on the frt. drive-shaft has failed! WTF! I am looking for answers to this problem. Any help, please.
Well the re-re-re-built frt. d-shaft was put back in today, no one seems to know why the boot is coming apart, will hope three times is a charm. Heading to the UP (Drummond Island) next week will keep an eye on it.
I do have the T-case skid. Took the KJ to the shop this AM, up on the hoist everything is good, all the mnts. etc. so they removed the shaft and will have it repaired again, will be back there tomorrow. Some how maybe the boot is twisting and causing it to rip?
As far as I know they are replacing the whole assy. The shop I am dealing with is sending the shaft out for rebuild. I know that the shaft only spins, no up or down movement, because of the design, frt. diff mntd. on a cradle. That is why I am so mad about this. Any help?
My frt. D-Shaft saga continues. This is the second time the boot on the rear CV joint has failed! only 2000mi since being replaced, WTF! any help on this? will be at the shop tomorrow to find out what is the problem.
The frt. D-shaft is not hard to remove, 6 bolts at the frt. and 6 bolts at the rear. push the shaft to the frt. push it up and drop it down. after what I have been through with the rebuilds check out CCI Driveline, they do an upgrade that does away with the rubber boot and CV Joint. This will be...
OK the re-re-built frt. D-shaft is in and the odo is reset, will see how many miles I get from this one. Any bets? Have checked out CCI Driveline re. their upgraded D-shaft, they use dbl. U-joints at the T-case end, much stronger and does away with the rubber dust boot that fails.
Picking up the D-shafts today and will install. Hopefully will get more than 5000mi's out of them, will keep all posted. Planing to have some 4-whl. fun this summer.
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