So I replaced the pins on both sides, the stuck ones and unstuck ones. Not much seemed to change. When I put in the new pins and bushings (greased) into the caliper bracket and pushed them in/out a few times, the one side still had almost no movement while the other sprung back beautifully...
I changed the front rotors and pads today, as the Liberty had picked up quite the shudder when braking firmly to hard. I noticed the upper caliper guide pins on both the driver's and passenger's side were frozen in the "closed" position (pressed in towards the rotor). The bottom pins had good...
Good to know. Mine was a PA sale, now living in MD. I won't lie, I enjoy getting parts fixed through recalls, assuming I haven't already done it myself. Free replacement parts, can't beat that.
Definitely not drilled rotors. You can buy slotted if you want, but there's no real need. You're not racing the Libby (I hope), so the extra heat dissipation seems wasted. Go with ceramic pads.
I've had my oil analysis done twice, once when I purchased it at 32k and again at 75k. I notice that yours has the same readout as mine: normal readings for everything but high for sodium. Did the written comments shed any light on that?
Looks like rockauto.com has the part for around $150-175 before shipping. I don't know about the labor involved, but maybe you could supply the part yourself and save some money there.
Leaking crankshaft seal
I had the EXACT same issue, finally took it to the dealer for analysis and fix. $300 later, problem fixed. Unfortunately it's really labor intensive and not likely something you can do yourself.
can order a "new" one
It won't be covered under powertrain warranty. Depending on how quickly you need it fixed, you can order a remanufactured one from Rockauto.com for anywhere between $75-100+ Part of that is a core charge, which you would get refunded once you shipped them the old one.
No, never thought of that, plus didn't want to spend $29 to test new oil.
The brand was Valvoline full synthetic 5w-30.
I HAVE been driving through a lot of road salt, so it is possible I sucked some in through the air intake.
I sent a sample of engine oil to Blackstone labs for analysis at my last oil change (80k miles). The sample came back with higher than normal sodium. Some quick research seems to indicate coolant in the oil as a potential source. The only issue is that they also tested the oil for coolant and...
I checked the "How-to" board and couldn't find this one listed.
I'm considering replacing my U-joint(s). The parentheses are present because my Haynes manual says the front U-joint can't/shouldn't be replaced, any comment? Also, when replacing the rear U-joint, which type/grade of grease...
tjkj explained the different conditions in which you can/should use them. In case you want further info, here's a little:
Part-time: Your front and rear diffs are locked, that is, the left and right tires must rotate at the same speed. ANY turning means the inner tire rotates more slowly...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.