Renegade, I read that you said you can remove the baffle inside the oil filler tube? I'm planning on taking it off to clean it out but is the inside baffle really just easily pulled out allowing for a straight fill tube?
This is what I was looking for
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/upgrade-your-pcv-system-tsb-25-001-08-a-59416/
However it looks like some of the parts are nonexistent anymore or hard to find. The small hose from the new PCV to wherever it connects to now is $80?!. Wouldn't a flexible piece of...
I remember seeing posts around the internet or here on replacing the location of the PCV and putting it on the drivers side valve cover. It required some parts like a new oil fill tube without a PCV outlet and a new type of PCV but I could not locate it. I'm wanting to make the switch as I get...
Rep if I could! Borrowed these kits for the pulley and the other has spacers big enough to help tap the seal in place. Better than spending $$$ on such speciality tools for a DIY’er.
Rented the tool from above. Picked up some new tools to add to my collection. Any idea which way the seal goes? Not sure if metal or rubber goes in first but I guess I’ll find out.
So I'm going to tool up for this and found that using the appropriate gear puller is a big key to the ease of the job. I found this one but it does not list the 3.7 but basically all the other Chrysler V6's. Is there another one I should be looking for...
I’ll admit I spilled a bit when I topped it off the other day so it could be some runoff from my overfill idiocy.
Other than a seal pulling tool, gotta find a write up for this to get it done. Timken seal is under $15.
So it’s not dripping or really caked there because it’s running from the seal to the pan then forming and dripping?
Sounds like an easier job and cheaper parts.
I did some looking, oil sending unit is bone dry and the oil seems to only be on one side of the pan (passenger) and it is on the differential as well. I tried to trace it and the bottom crankshaft pulley looks like it has or had oil residue on it, maybe that is the source and it is puddling and...
I think I already fired it up buying the oil pan stuff. Can the front crank seep down and only drip from the pan area? Now I'm eager to get home so I can dive in tonight.
I'll have to take a closer look tonight, parts are coming in but if I can ship them back and just get something easier done like a sender and front seal then I'd be happy. Maybe if I find one as the issue I'll do both since I'll be there?
Reading up a bit more it seems the oil pan can collect...
This came in today, still waiting on the new plug and pan itself but I'm about to undertake a new adventure in DIY. I've only found a few threads on other forums with very vague descriptions of how to do this without the craziness of engine pulls. Ours is a 4WD so I'm curious if there is...
Got the lights today wow! They were already oriented at 2 and 11 with the high beam at 6 o’clock. It took a little work to get the retainer ring over them I pinched a couple of tabs down on the ring but it slipped on and they are in tight.
Easy install I made it quicker by removing the air...
Just ordered, odd Amazon said they would not fit my Jeep but they are 9007. Seems like it may be worth it since they are the same price as a Silverstar Ultra but the lifespan of the SS is never that great.
I noticed they did have an older G1 with COB, this uses CSP, and then a newer version...
JDM ASTAR G2 8000 Lumens Extremely Bright CSP Chips 9007 All-in-One LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion Kit, Xenon White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1U3JJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yajAAbG49HE16
You mean these? Basically same price as the ZXE, can you share any pics or info on how they fit, I’ve heard...
I was looking into the ZXE's as an upgrade, seems some people are swapping to LED but with the added dissipating element and wiring seems you'd have to modify to get it to fit and then deal with potential cheap off-brand malfunctions.
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