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    Help needed to drain radiator coolant

    I never use the drain valve on the radiator... once you open them - the valve will constantly leak. It is best to get a bucket under the lower radiator hose and remove the coolant that way. Much faster (slightly messy if you aren't careful) and in the end - no leaky radiator.
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    Prelowered 2002

    Tony's correct... If you still have the Factory stock springs - they will be "taller." As soon as you replace any one spring, all of them will need to be replaced, because Chrysler only delivers "short" springs.
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    Rear outlet (power)

    Most definently there will be voltage drop across the wire for the rear power outlet. However, it varies based on the current load that you are pulling out of the wire. VD [Voltage Drop] = I [electrical load / draw] x R [resistance] Here is a nice write-up on VD
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    Rear outlet (power)

    Right, we are saying the same thing.. I wasn't correcting you, I was only reitterating the failure mode for these things.
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    Rear outlet (power)

    It's not the peak current that kills the outlets though. It's the heat that is generated when large powerdraws force a lot of current through that tiny 18ga (?) wire. That heats up the back side of the power point and melts them... I would say in an emergancy it's fine - but for constant...
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    grinding noise.

    Question: Did you buy it used? If so - take it straight back to the dealer you purchased it from and ask them to repair the transfer case. Grinding is NEVER a noise you should hear on the KJ, especially when switching between the 4x4 settings.
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    Rear outlet (power)

    In my KJ, the rear is fused for 20Amps. HOWEVER, when the plugs heat up, the plastic connector on the back of them can melt and cause the outlet to go non-functional on you. Even when you are under the 20Amp current draw of the fuse. I would really only use that power point for items less...
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    Scary Driveability

    Indeed - it sounds like your steering gear is not up to snuff. The KJ is not unstable unless you are driving as if you were in a sports car.
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    Radiator Failure. Options?

    Yes I have HD cooling.
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    Radiator Failure. Options?

    Has your 3rd replacement served longer than 10 months or it under that 10 month window still? I am wondering myself how long I'll get out of the new radiator. 10 Months - 7 years... Ugh! I'll keep checking my radiator every week now (at the gas pump probably) to keep an eye out for any...
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    Wiring melting

    NEVER run the full current load through the switch. [fire hazard] Always use a relay to carry the current load. [see above] Seperate circuits for different lights. [see above] Just doing a basic calculation (assuming each light was 100W): I[current] = P[watts]/V[voltage], 600/12 = 50AMPS...
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    Radiator Failure. Options?

    The KJ survived it's very short stay at the dealer. Break Down: $330.00 for the Mopar Radiator + 2 hours of labor New coolant and a touch of transmission fluid = 510.xx + tax out the door. Expensive Yes. But it's fixed.
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    Radiator Failure. Options?

    I dropped the KJ off at the dealer today. Will update after the KJ is back together.
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    Radiator Failure. Options?

    It's getting the mechanical fan off the waterpump pully [without the correct wrench] that bothers me. The whole proceedure wouldn't be too hard at all, as I am pretty mechanically inclined.
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    Radiator Failure. Options?

    I have the original radiator in my stock KJ. So thats only 7 years of service / 82K miles and now the raditor has developed the common hairline fracture in the endcap and is leaking. What a cheaply constructed radiator... Has anyone swapped the radiator with the HD cooling package? I know...
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    fenders, best way to keep them looking good?

    Buy painted fenders.
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    Tires too big?

    KY Liberty used to run a Nitrous setup on his KJ.. He would know about the limits of the stock pistons. Which from what I read are weak due to their design and fail under boosted applications. But again - you'd have to talk to KY Liberty. Also - The KJ is plenty powerful. I agree there...
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    30k Maintenance?

    First - That "list" seems outdated and very general in nature but otherwise awfully expensive. An example: 4h - the Coolant should be good for 60,000 miles or 5 years on new Chrysler / Jeep and Dodge products. It doesn't need to be repalced every 30K miles as indicated on your flyer...
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    How much have you towed with your manual tranny?

    OK, that makes sense. And thus - it's all in the setup.
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    Uh oh! What happened here?!

    The pipe will espand and shrink with temperature. It will not expand 1/4" though. My guess is that the gap has always been there from your mullfer install and you have just noticed it. Perhaps the gap was situated at the top of the muffler piping when it was installed and has shifted down
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