Similar issue, rough idle and code said both rear 02’s. Replaced these and now no code but idles real rough in park and at a stop. Swapped the plugs to find some random brand and installed Ngk. It’s better but not right yet. Looking at the old plugs I’m guessing number 6 needs a coil pack? Also...
did that, also juggled the isolators putting the old factory one on top of the passenger side then all 3 back in the driver side and it sits at 36-1/4 driver 36 pass. All done in the rear.
Is it normal to have the rear not be level? I just added ome crd heavy springs and bilsteins, I went with 2 new and the 1 old upper isolator on top. Set it down and had rear driver 36-3/8 (22-1/4) rear pass 35-7/8 22-(3/4). Tried to spin the pass side spring to raise it up and got barely...
Got it… with some extra hands and loosing the first bolt up I was able to then pry and ratchet strap pull plus raise and lower the ball joint side to just get the second bolt hammered in and to line up. Turns out I had the first bolt snugged up enough the rubber wouldn’t flex. I was excited to...
So I started with the diff/ball joint point installed then went to the front 2 bolts rotating the diff with no luck only getting one in. After the diff and only one bolt In I removed the ball joint and tried to just install the other bolt first and side to side the holes are not matching up...
Is it possible to get a blem rear UCA? Replacing a factory one and it seams 3/8-1/2 short of the 2 upper bolt holes lining up. It is being lifted but even without the ball joint connected to the diff the two upper holes do not match up as if the unit is short.
Our KJ was our sons first car until he just moved to South Korea with the Air Force. Brought it in for the Radiator leak and it was needing ball joints and a rack so now it’s in for that plus, water pump, upper control arms, lower ctrl arms. thanks to this sites awesome knowledge bank OME crd...
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