Time to replace all coils?

They changed gap on plugs in certain years, if I remember right , not sure why
just look at yours to see what it says on the core support
Every NGK plug I ever got was preset to what I needed

Difference between 0.40 and 0.44 is about the same as a fairy ****. In theory starting with a tighter gap means it'll get better before it gets worse for longer life, or is that just crusty old cars from the 60's and 70's?

Crusty old cars from back when

tommudd said:

Crusty old cars from back when

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You heard right, haha

uss2defiant said:

spark plugs and ignition coils would be good.

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On replacing plugs, did some models have aluminum heads ? I have an 02, 3.7 L 6 cal. Possible to tell from VIN ?

All 3.7 KJ engines are aluminum heads & steel block/ thus the need for HOAT or zerex G05 engine coolant only.
The correct spark plugs are NGK ZFR6F-11G and set gap at .040 inch

Squamish_Steffen said:

Was just wondering why the NGK copper plugs with code ZFR6F-11G lists the cap at 0.044 instead of 0.040...
And none of the other plugs list 0.040 either.
Guess I'll order the NGK ones and hope they are correct...

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Out of the several hundred I have installed only found one plug from NGK that was off a small amount

LibertyTC said:

All 3.7 KJ engines are aluminum heads & steel block/ thus the need for HOAT or zerex G05 engine coolant only.
The correct spark plugs are NGK ZFR6F-11G and set gap at .040 inch

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So when replacing plugs in an aluminum head, aside from allowing the engine to cool down to ambient, are there any other techniques essential so one does
not ruin the threads ?

Blue Gen said:

So when replacing plugs in an aluminum head, aside from allowing the engine to cool down to ambient, are there any other techniques essential so one does
not ruin the threads ?

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slow and steady and make sure they are started in the threads right

Once coil pack is removed, I use compressed air to get dirt out around the spark plug first.
I use a good 5/8 spark plug socket & use electrical tape from socket to extension.
Last thing you want to happen is pull up on extension and have the spark plug socket still remain.
I do use a very tiny sniff of anti-seize on new spark plug thread, to aid in removal.
I then thread new spark plug in by hand (using taped extension/socket) & you can feel washer crush with less than 1/4 turn. 20 foot Lb's torque is specified.
Here is an image that may help...

I NEVER use antiseize since it will change the amount where it screws down in ( torque )
2002tjkj ( Troy ) always said the same
Not to refute LibertyTC but to some a small amount ( tiny whiff ) is a whole gob for another which can really mess things up
Have heard and seen plugs coming loose after someone used antiseize on the plugs

But then including my 03/04/ and 05 I've only done like 15/16 sets of plugs in mine over the years plus others for friends so pay me no mind

Only two threads close to bottom of plug get a tiny amount of anti-size, & it is then wiped almost clean with shop towel.
So yes it is just a tiny amount used.
The main reason for doing this is because the amount of moisture & rain with water covered roads here.
It is not uncommon for water to pool, splash onto engine, & can get past the coil boot.
I even carry a can of compressed air to assist getting water out if needed.

LibertyTC said:

Only two threads close to bottom of plug get a tiny amount of anti-size, & it is then wiped almost clean with shop towel.
So yes it is just a tiny amount used.
The main reason for doing this is because the amount of moisture & rain with water covered roads here.
It is not uncommon for water to pool, splash onto engine, & can get past the coil boot.
I even carry a can of compressed air to assist getting water out if needed.

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Seems it would be a good idea to shoot some compressed air down alongside
the coil to blast out any dust that might have accumulated down in there ?
Wouldn't be good for that to fall into the cylinder when plug is removed ?

Blue Gen said:

Seems it would be a good idea to shoot some compressed air down alongside
the coil to blast out any dust that might have accumulated down in there ?
Wouldn't be good for that to fall into the cylinder when plug is removed ?

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A shot of air before you pull the coil up out , then another shot after you pull the coil works
Then once the coil is out I always inspect the coils boot , clean it and have it ready when new spark plug is installed
Just some of those common sense things to do

Should add to all the above, dielectric grease!!!