Vehicle shift!! HELP!!

I own a 2006 Jeep liberty 3.7 l. Every time I set the Jeep in cruise (at 60) and go down a substantial grade we have PROBLEMS! It acts as though the right side is catching and literally slings the Jeep sideways? It could be, but I highly doubt it's the U -joint. Any help would be great!!

Are you running it in 2wd or 4wd? And have you had a differential service anytime in the recent past? Much like why cruise control isn't recommended in heavy rain, it sounds to me like possibly a tire is slightly losing traction, the cruise control feels that the vehicle is slowing, and adds power.

gushatman said:

I own a 2006 Jeep liberty 3.7 l. Every time I set the Jeep in cruise (at 60) and go down a substantial grade we have PROBLEMS! It acts as though the right side is catching and literally slings the Jeep sideways? It could be, but I highly doubt it's the U -joint. Any help would be great!!

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Doesn't sound right to me. We have a lot of mountains here and I usually lock out O/D going down hill. I don't think cruise control is meant to be used going down substantial grades.

Dave

desert is along the right lines i think..

sounds to me more like the abs is freaking out..

our abs on the 06s is very touchy and moody.

It's 2wd all the time. The hills in SW Wisconsin are what I was referring to. I'll look into what was mentioned. I AM actually looking into trading this Liberty off for a 2006 Liberty with the CDR. What mods can be done to this diesel motor? (the last one I had was a 7.3 powerstroke)

Sounds like the rear lower control arm bushings. Here is what mine was doing (did not have cruise on) try this.
On straight highway 60-70 mph,when I would normally accelerate to pass let say, the Jeep would move to the left, and when I would go from gas on to off- de-accelerate like down hill with foot off the the gas, it would jump a bit to the right. (could be opposite movement based on bad side of bushing) You could do a wiggly pop left-right- from gas on to off at highway speed, not good especially around turn or slippery conditions.
Basically the rear control arm bushings were worn and the slots in the axle side bushing were causing the rear diff to slightly shift around, and had the play caused by the relief slots.
If your's does this you can try: Remove both lower control arms. The axle side bushing slots in the middle of bushing can be filled in with windshield urethane. Allowed to dry for a day or two before re-installation. This may fix it. Otherwise you have to get new control arms with the bushings already installed and fill them in or new bushings with modification of filled in and dry and find someone who is willing to & have a 20 ton press and carefully remove and install new bushings, this is what I did.
Here is a photo showing the cut away slot (relief) in the bushing that should get filled in.
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LibertyTC said:

Sounds like the rear lower control arm bushings. Here is what mine was doing (did not have cruise on) try this.
On straight highway 60-70 mph,when I would normally accelerate to pass let say, the Jeep would move to the left, and when I would go from gas on to off- de-accelerate like down hill with foot off the the gas, it would jump a bit to the right. (could be opposite movement based on bad side of bushing) You could do a wiggly pop left-right- from gas on to off at highway speed, not good especially around turn or slippery conditions.
Basically the rear control arm bushing were worn and the slots in the axle side bushing were causing the rear diff to slightly shift around and had the play caused by the relief slots.
If your's does this you can try: remove both lower control arms. The axle side bushing slots in the middle of bushing can be filled in with windshield urethane. Allowed to dry for a day or two before re-installation. This may fix it. Otherwise you have to get new control arms with the bushings already installed and fill them in or new bushings with modification of filled in and dry and find someone who is willing to & have a 20 ton press and carefully remove and install new bushings, this is what I did.
Here is a photo showing the cut away slot (relief) in the bushing that should get filled in.
36011[/ATTACH]"]

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Interesting that they would make a bushing like that. I wonder what the design theory is behind it?

I suspect the slots are there to allow for rotational movement of the control arm. If the bushing was completely solid as you suggest, they would probably be stiffer, or fail sooner, or both.

I believe it was a relief deigned to allow the diff & Arm to absorb a sideways impact, with out bending or worse breaking the welds.
Unfortunately, as the rubber weakens caused by the normal daily torque actions, it gets worse until wobbly-pop sets in.
There is no rotational movement, they are pressed in and held by bolts in 4 bushings, 2 bushings per side. (only the 2 closest to the axle side) bushings have the slots.
Vertical movement is allowed by arm, but the sideways movement(torque left- right) though slots, does shift the diff.
Filling in the 2 axle side bushings really helps for those that have done this.
Once you fill in the axle side bushings, the Urethane still remains somewhat pliable in the slot, and still allows for some movement if necessary, but not the full 1/4 inch movement like the large gaping hole in the stock bushing!

You are EXACTLY right on what it's doing! Guess i need to fix it. More $$ out the drain!

Start by removing the lower control arms and inspect for cracks in the rubber on all rear lower control arm bushings.
look good without cracks, then fill in the two Reliefs in the two axle side bushings. You can use windshield Urethane or a tube of Roofing Urethane, let it cure for a minimum of 24 hours (48 hours preferred) before re-installing, try that first before the dealer tells ya you need new control arms that still should be filled in, use what u got and start there.
Also if you are having the work done by someone also check the ball joint on the upper tri-link.
If you do need parts http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-steering-parts/liberty-kj.htm
Or Spicer makes the better quality bushings that I used, I took new bushings into a windshield shop, had them filled in with Urethane and let them cure for 3 days before....
I had them pressed in by a 4x4 shop! 100$ for 4 bushings $250 to install, I kept the stock arms with new bushings.
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Spicer rear Lower control arms Bushing part#s -rear axle side needs 2x #5651230 and 2x #570-1091 for the-frame side.
No more Wobbly-Pop!!! Torque movement be GONE !
Tracks strait regardless of gas on-off.

Thanks a bunch for all the help! It's really appreciated!

Your welcome good luck !
Please post back what you do, and how it works out 4 you.
Take a few photos of the bushings when the arms are out and lets see them!
Here is my stock rear lower control arm, with new Spicer bushings filled in with Urethane finally installed!
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Thanks to: North Shore Off-Road for taking on this job.
Having a large torch to burn / push out the old bushings!
And Having a huge 30 ton press to install those bad boys!
Quality work, even painted the arms before install, without asking!

Where did these Spicer bushings come from? I have replaced my lower rear control arms, and upper tri-link 7 months ago, and they're already worn out. Junk Chinese aftermarket parts! I'm looking for new, higher quality bushings to fill with urethane. I have my own press. Any part numbers? Thanks! -Mike

I changed my game plan for this repair. Tomorrow I'm getting some Devcon Flexane 80 liquid urethane, and going to fill in my existing bushings with the stuff. I did some research, and the windshield stuff may work, but this Devcon is a little bit harder rubber. Specs say the 3m windshield urethane is 50-55 durometer, and the flexane is 80. They also make it in 94 durometer if you wanted to make your own hockey pucks! I will post my results...