Recent content by mercdudecbr600

Not exactly. At the wear surface, sure it makes no sense. But there are other parts to a rotor, specifically the veining on the inside. If you don't want to be fighting rust in those veins or on the edges of the rotor, then coating makes at least some sense.

I just did this job a few months back. Not 'fun' but not that bad. I had to undo/loosen the drivers side cat (mines a 02 with a exhaust v clamp) and undo the front propshaft and then play with the angle of the starter to get it out. Took maybe 4 hours laying on the floor of the garage by myself...

Located in CA, but interested in the 4.10 gears. Anyway you'd be willing to break the front diff apart and ship just the ring/pinion? Otherwise, cost prohibitive to ship to CA from FL.

Hey Tom, looking to part with one of those extensions?

It somewhat depends on your year. Mine is the pre-facelift (2002), so it has a cable throttle body, etc. and is marginally simpler. Overall though, if you consider how small this vehicle is, it is a marvel that they were able to pack a real 4wd system with mechanical TC, decent V6, IFS, ABS...

No. the instructions indicate that if you have an engine programming module (Jet module) that you shouldn't include the resistor. I think it's because the module also helps control the trans shift patterns. I have a Jet stage 1 module on my rig so I didn't include. They do work well together, as...

Huh. How do the Nokian's compare to the Toyos - how much weight did they end up taking on these tires? I've always found that indicates overall quality of tire.

Interestingly, the early KJ's 45RLE trans has a lower (higher RPM) OD than the later trans. My early KJ, even with 245/75/16 (30.5") tires, still cruises at 70mph around 2300rpm - stock tire size 235/70/16 (29.0") had cruising around 2400rpm. I guess I'm saying, the older KJ's seem less affected...

Around 23-400 rpm seems best but wind resistance is what hurts you at speed

That’s what I did. Single best performance upgrade I’ve made to my kj

Modernish I’d say. Just the right amount of goodies before things get really complicated

Most likely, that's not assembled. You'll have to have a shop compress the springs onto the front shocks (kinda like a strut) and then you'll install on the vehicle as a unit.

Yes, I installed one. The kit has 2 options - 1 for taking out torque converter, 1 for not taking it out - to take it out means you're removing trans. That second option also has a sub option for soldering in a resistor in the tb board, though you aren't supposed to do that if you have an engine...

You probably have trac-lok lsd in the rear in combination with highway tires. When I first got my KJ and was driving in snow (highway tires + lsd rear), even if I was careful I would go sideways in snow. A open rear is actually safer in the snow than lsd, ironically.

Been there. M Been there, drained a few batteries. We have the same issue with a worn out key - my wife always asks me to double check the ignition is in the right position (non-acc) after she drives because she was the major instigator of dead batteries. Even I do it from time to time. I will...