C.v. clearance

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czracecars

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Has anybody run into a problem with the spring lower fork being up against the cv boot? I just installed 2.5" strut spacers on a 2003 Liberty and the drivers side at full drop is into the c.v. boot. If I run it this way it's going to rip the boot at some point.
 

tommudd

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Has anybody run into a problem with the spring lower fork being up against the cv boot? I just installed 2.5" strut spacers on a 2003 Liberty and the drivers side at full drop is into the c.v. boot. If I run it this way it's going to rip the boot at some point.

Spacer ..............
remove it and do a proper full spring lift
 

duderz7

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I'm trying to picture how a spacer could cause this? Can you provide a picture? And Tom is right spacers are not good. "Let's take poor suspension and make it taller"
 

dillon

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2.5" over the top spacer on front is way too much. Think it will be like a 5" lift at the wheel.
 

czracecars

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I'm trying to picture how a spacer could cause this? Can you provide a picture? And Tom is right spacers are not good. "Let's take poor suspension and make it taller"

I all ready took it apart, didnt see your reply until today. Basically all I can get on drivers side is 2" of lift without lower part of strut/top part of fork hitting cv boot at full drop on drivers side only. I have heard latter model forks are 1/2" higher so if I can figure out where to get them I may try that
 

tommudd

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I all ready took it apart, didnt see your reply until today. Basically all I can get on drivers side is 2" of lift without lower part of strut/top part of fork hitting cv boot at full drop on drivers side only. I have heard latter model forks are 1/2" higher so if I can figure out where to get them I may try that

Have done a ton of lifts using the KJ clevis, no issues at all using them
Drivers side CV of course is shorter and causes more issues.
But it still comes back to the spacer and how it affects the overall front end setup
 

czracecars

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Have done a ton of lifts using the KJ clevis, no issues at all using them
Drivers side CV of course is shorter and causes more issues.
But it still comes back to the spacer and how it affects the overall front end setup

It's not a spring spacer, maybe that's what your thinking of. The spacer goes above the spring top plate and lowers the strut assembly down,increasing the lower control arm angle. As the angle increases the fork gets closer to the cv
 

tommudd

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It's not a spring spacer, maybe that's what your thinking of. The spacer goes above the spring top plate and lowers the strut assembly down,increasing the lower control arm angle. As the angle increases the fork gets closer to the cv

I know exactly what you have
its called an OTT, have a pair laying on the shelf to show people what not to use, have had them since 2005 , came with an ARB bumper I bought cheap since they used the OTT spacer and had a ton of issues with wearing parts, rubbing etc and tore down their KJ and sold me everything
It does not increase the LCA angle anymore than a full spring lift does
But the overall design of the OTT just does not work well with our IFS coilovers and so causes the issues you are having.
 

dillon

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The actually spacer was 1.75" and was claimed to be a 2.5" lift

Sounds like the one I tried. Just would not work without cv boot getting hit. I had to hack mine apart and rebuild it to 1" then use clevis spacers to get it the rest of way. Mr. Mudd is correct, the spacers aren't worth it and when my budget allows I will be going spring lift.
 

czracecars

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Sounds like the one I tried. Just would not work without cv boot getting hit. I had to hack mine apart and rebuild it to 1" then use clevis spacers to get it the rest of way. Mr. Mudd is correct, the spacers aren't worth it and when my budget allows I will be going spring lift.

This is the 1st liberty I've owned and I just figured if the part was sold it would do what they claimed! I actually cut mine down to 3/4" and welded it to the top spring plate and still wouldn't work, bottom of shoch/top of clevis was into boot. Problem was also replacement shock/springs were 3/8" longer than original with extra 1/2" also on bottom. I put a stock spring plate on and made a 5/8" spacer for bottom between clevis and shock. I think I'm close now to were I want to be next step will be ok clevis it's a $2500 vehicle I don't want to spend $1000 on a lift kit. Thanks for everyone's replies!
 

tommudd

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This is the 1st liberty I've owned and I just figured if the part was sold it would do what they claimed! I actually cut mine down to 3/4" and welded it to the top spring plate and still wouldn't work, bottom of shoch/top of clevis was into boot. Problem was also replacement shock/springs were 3/8" longer than original with extra 1/2" also on bottom. I put a stock spring plate on and made a 5/8" spacer for bottom between clevis and shock. I think I'm close now to were I want to be next step will be ok clevis it's a $2500 vehicle I don't want to spend $1000 on a lift kit. Thanks for everyone's replies!

You're building / modifying a vehicle
what you paid for something is out the window
It is the final outcome that you are going for
mixing/ cutting/welding suspension parts is never good in the end

Years ago I bought a 32 Ford 3 window, paid 500 for the body by the time I got done with frame, suspension, running gear, chopped top, glass etc I had many times over what I paid for it. But sold it to a Lawyer for huge money since it was done right
True the KJ will never be a 32 Ford coupe but do it right and will last way longer . My 03 , the suspension I installed on it lists for over 1/2 of what I paid for it, but well worth every nickle
 

JasonJ

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Chrysler is selling new Jeep Wranglers from $30k to $50k... a $1000 lift would be a bargain then!

I just got online and built a 2019 Wrangler Unlimited MOAB... with the options that I would want, came out to $56,320 before taxes, dealer fees, plate and registration...

OK, so what the bloody hell is my point? If the KJ is in good condition, don't look at what it's worth in terms of what you could sell it to another owner for. Are you going to sell it? If no, then it could be worth $10 or $1M.. doesn't matter because you're going to keep it.

So, given that.. put what you want to into it in order to get it where you are happy with it. It is the end result that matters.. and it's your cash, so drop $8000 on a solid front axle conversion and a 4.7HO swap if you want to. It'll be bad *****-chuckin' ass!

So long as you're happy with it in the end. Street value is irrelevant.

Also, most agree that about 3/8", MAYBE 1/2" is max thickness for a top plate. No wonder 3/4" still gave you issues. 5/8" of clevis spacing is also more than accepted max...

Best to get the bulk of your lift from proper, quality springs, either OME, BDS or there was another brand someone got from overseas, I can't recall (but could search t his forum for it). Add in a 1/4" top plate and then after it's settled, space out the clevis to level it or bring it back up some.
 

czracecars

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Chrysler is selling new Jeep Wranglers from $30k to $50k... a $1000 lift would be a bargain then!

I just got online and built a 2019 Wrangler Unlimited MOAB... with the options that I would want, came out to $56,320 before taxes, dealer fees, plate and registration...

OK, so what the bloody hell is my point? If the KJ is in good condition, don't look at what it's worth in terms of what you could sell it to another owner for. Are you going to sell it? If no, then it could be worth $10 or $1M.. doesn't matter because you're going to keep it.

So, given that.. put what you want to into it in order to get it where you are happy with it. It is the end result that matters.. and it's your cash, so drop $8000 on a solid front axle conversion and a 4.7HO swap if you want to. It'll be bad *****-chuckin' ass!

So long as you're happy with it in the end. Street value is irrelevant.

Also, most agree that about 3/8", MAYBE 1/2" is max thickness for a top plate. No wonder 3/4" still gave you issues. 5/8" of clevis spacing is also more than accepted max...

Best to get the bulk of your lift from proper, quality springs, either OME, BDS or there was another brand someone got from overseas, I can't recall (but could search t his forum for it). Add in a 1/4" top plate and then after it's settled, space out the clevis to level it or bring it back up some.
Solid axle swap would be awesome! Not looking for another project just something to drive. I like your thought process though!
 

tommudd

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I had everything ready for a SFA on my 04
full width 44 front/ 9 inch rear, lockers in both with 5.13 gears etc
Then thought no, I like how the IFS rides and ended up selling it all after taking two years to get everything rounded up.
 

czracecars

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I had everything ready for a SFA on my 04
full width 44 front/ 9 inch rear, lockers in both with 5.13 gears etc
Then thought no, I like how the IFS rides and ended up selling it all after taking two years to get everything rounded up.

I guess that's the important thing knowing how your going to use it and what you really want. .
 

tommudd

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I guess that's the important thing knowing how your going to use it and what you really want. .

Same use, same off road, same everything really
cool factor would of been in the overall height and better in some ways off road
But end of the day IFS works ok for me
 

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