CEL codes P0132 and P0153

[E.T.]

I'm hoping for some tips on these. I was getting P0132 off and on for a while now, which is supposedly due to the driver's side upstream O2 sensor. I needed an e-check soon, so I bought a new sensor and replaced it. Everything seemed OK, so I took it to the station today to get tested. It passed (yay). On the drive home, lo and behold, the damn CEL popped again. Now it's showing two codes, P0132 (again) and P0153 (pass. side upstream sensor?).

I'm not sure what to do at this point. I know for a fact the driver's side sensor is fine, since it's brand new and it's NGK. Could something else be causing these constant O2 sensor codes? Exhaust leaking maybe? I haven't look too closely, but I'm sure a lot of the metal under there is rusted (it's a 2003).

At this point, I passed the test, so I'm good for 2 more years. I may just dump this heap by then, but if it's an easy fix, I'd like to try. Thanks!

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Since you're getting codes for both engine banks (left and right) I suspect a vacuum leak. The code you're getting indicates a rich condition (more fuel than called for in relation to air in the fuel/air mixture) so it comes down to a couple of things.

The EVAP canister may be leaking - at the age of our vehicles the rubber hoses and plastic connectors are beginning to fail. So a vacuum leak may be the fault.

The throttle body could be excessively dirty; when was the last time you checked/changed the air filter?

The throttle position sensor could be going bad

If those fixes don't work move to Stark County - we don't have inspections :happy175:

Bob

 

[E.T.]

Since you're getting codes for both engine banks (left and right) I suspect a vacuum leak. The code you're getting indicates a rich condition (more fuel than called for in relation to air in the fuel/air mixture) so it comes down to a couple of things.

The EVAP canister may be leaking - at the age of our vehicles the rubber hoses and plastic connectors are beginning to fail. So a vacuum leak may be the fault.

The throttle body could be excessively dirty; when was the last time you checked/changed the air filter?

The throttle position sensor could be going bad

If those fixes don't work move to Stark County - we don't have inspections :happy175:

Bob

Thanks for the tips. :happy107: I remember replacing some hoses a while back because they were falling off and split at the ends. I'll take a look and see if any of the older ones look bad.

Air filter was changed a few years ago, but I'll take a look at that, too.

Is there a way to test the throttle position sensor?

 

[megatone]

Is there a way to test the throttle position sensor?

Yes, there are two ways to test the TPS.

One way is to use a multi meter and 'back probe' the wires on the TPS electrical connector (while the connector is still attached to the TPS and while the key is turned to the RUN position, but with the engine not actually running.

Another method (which is the way I prefer) is to use an OBD II scanner that is capable of monitoring Real Time engine performance data. With this type of scanner I can select the TPS monitor option and watch the function of the TPS as it is happening in Real Time. I can chose to watch the information displayed as a numeric value or as a visual graph. (The graph display is what I prefer as I can visually see any spikes or dips in the voltage output of the TPS.

An engine scanner capable of displaying Real Time sensor data can be purchased at most local auto parts stores with prices starting around a hundred bucks. The particular scanner I have was $350 when new, but it is also capable of scanning ABS/traction control, airbag and manufacturer specific OBD codes, some other junk too, but the biggest benefit of it is with the real time monitoring capability.

It has been a LONG time since I last back-probed a sensor socket with a multi meter. But I know it is possible. I don't remember the process, but I think there will be one wire providing 12v+ and a second wire with 5v Reference Power and a third wire which is -Ground

When testing the 5v Reference wire.....You will get 5v of power at the connector with the gas pedal NOT pressed at all. When you push the gas pedal and....I think the 5v power will diminish to about 1v. I could be wrong though. And I think the 5v Reference power could be as low as 4.7v and still function properly.

Sorry I couldn't be more specific.

Look up the proper back probe wire test procedure. I remember it being super easy to perform the test, It's just that I haven't done the back probe thing since I got a scanner. So I forgot the specifics.

Good Luck.

 

[E.T.]

Yes, there are two ways to test the TPS.

One way is to use a multi meter and 'back probe' the wires on the TPS electrical connector (while the connector is still attached to the TPS and while the key is turned to the RUN position, but with the engine not actually running.

Another method (which is the way I prefer) is to use an OBD II scanner that is capable of monitoring Real Time engine performance data. With this type of scanner I can select the TPS monitor option and watch the function of the TPS as it is happening in Real Time. I can chose to watch the information displayed as a numeric value or as a visual graph. (The graph display is what I prefer as I can visually see any spikes or dips in the voltage output of the TPS.

An engine scanner capable of displaying Real Time sensor data can be purchased at most local auto parts stores with prices starting around a hundred bucks. The particular scanner I have was $350 when new, but it is also capable of scanning ABS/traction control, airbag and manufacturer specific OBD codes, some other junk too, but the biggest benefit of it is with the real time monitoring capability.

It has been a LONG time since I last back-probed a sensor socket with a multi meter. But I know it is possible. I don't remember the process, but I think there will be one wire providing 12v+ and a second wire with 5v Reference Power and a third wire which is -Ground

When testing the 5v Reference wire.....You will get 5v of power at the connector with the gas pedal NOT pressed at all. When you push the gas pedal and....I think the 5v power will diminish to about 1v. I could be wrong though. And I think the 5v Reference power could be as low as 4.7v and still function properly.

Sorry I couldn't be more specific.

Look up the proper back probe wire test procedure. I remember it being super easy to perform the test, It's just that I haven't done the back probe thing since I got a scanner. So I forgot the specifics.

Good Luck.

Thanks again. Not sure I want to get that involved, but I'll keep it in mind. I passed the e-check so I've got 2 more years before I even have to think about it again. It seems to be running as well as can be expected for a 2003.

I looked under the hood today and all the hoses looked good. There was a really skinny one near the throttle body that looked a little weird. It wasn't totally off, but it wasn't totally connected, either. I pushed it back into place, so we'll see. CEL hasn't popped back on yet, but who knows what'll happen in a few days. Keeping my fingers crosssed.