it all started with P0320 but....

[uss2defiant]

it all started with P0320 but now misfiring, etc. Help get Pepper back up!

Hi all,
I cannot catch a break with the jeep.
2 days ago the jeep died while wife was using it.
P0320 code was found. Was able to limp it home and replaced the crankshaft position sensor.
Local dealership did not have any in stock so had to use autozone part.

The check engine light eventually clear out and everything was good 2 nights ago.

Yesterday, it died again on the wife. I initially couldn't start it up but eventually did. I found P1299 and P0320 again. Unfortunately, it was late and I left it with a mech garage.

They didn't find any vacuum leaks and said it was P0320. They suggested changing the camshaft sensor as well. Didn't want to pay 250 to replace it.

I have the MOPAR camshaft and crankshaft on order. Still no crankshaft in stock in dumb Tucson so have to wait a few days.

Limped it back from the garage to home. It was misfiring all the way home, sounding like a jalopy. I found pending codes P0300, P320 and P302. With the foremost, referring to misfiring and the latter as cylinder number 2. I looked at the logged error codes and it was P320 ONLY.
Now it was NOT misfiring from breakdown spot to garage last night.

Is it possible that the misfiring of cylinder 2 could be caused by bad camshaft sensor?
Or could this be something bigger?
Any ideas with the P1299?
Anything else to check besides replacing the sensors and making sure wiring is good?
Feedback/comments is much appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[LibertyTC]

Brian you stated "P0320 code was found. Was able to limp it home and replace it."
What did u replace? It sounds like you have the CPS on order....
Is your battery able to pass a load test? What is the voltage reading while running and after 15 minutes off?
DO you have a lead acid battery where you can read the state of charge from a hydrometer...Just want to make sure your battery is good first of all..
and ensure terminals are spotlessly clean free from corrosion & tight.

 

[uss2defiant]

Hey. sorry for not typing in complete sentences.
I replaced the crankshaft position sensor after the first time the jeep broke down.
Got it from a local autoparts store. I suspect that it might be bad but whatever it is. I hope MOPAR parts are better.

The battery is brand new. Just got it replaced about 1.5 weeks ago. Had it load tested and the alternator checks out fine. I can get the battery voltages later when I get home.

I have the camshaft and crankshaft sensors on order. Will get to me Saturday.

Update: I forgot to mentioned that I had some white smoke after I was able to start it up after the 2nd break down. There was some black smoke from the exhaust as i was tailing the wife to the shop but that stopped halfway to the mech. garage.

 

[LibertyTC]

Smoke ya..pull the spark plugs replace or clean them up...check gap too.. misfire = rich...
Would like to see photo of what color the plugs look like..
Has the engine ever overheated? How is the oil... clean.. not milkshake looking I hope..

 

[uss2defiant]

Thanks for chipping in w/ comments LibertyTC on all my threads so far.

I checked the dipstick and the coolant reservoir, so far so good. No sign of coolant or oil in the individual areas. I'm kinda worried that the cams are bad or even something else bigger.

I'll change the sensors and pull the spark plugs.
I haven't done spark plugs at all my entire life and this would be popping my cherry.

I'll keep ya'll posted tomorrow.

Thanks.

 

[CactusJacked]

White "smoke" (steam), if it's continuous, means you're burning coolant; a blown gasket.
Blue smoke means burning oil.
Black smoke means your air/fuel mix is running rich.

 

[cplchris]

white smoke from coolant leaking by a head gasket will not be continuous. the pressures in the cylinders while the engine is running are higher than the pressure of the cooling system. once the vehicle is shut off and sits for a while enough coolant leaks into the cylinder to produce visible white smoke on intial startup (maybe a minute or so after startup). once the coolant that seeped into the cylinder burns off any small amount while the engine is running wont be enough to produce visible white smoke. and it is smoke, not just steam. coolant contains much more than water...

tl;dr
white smoke on startup = coolant leaking into cylinders (the white smoke doesnt have to be constant while running) and it isn't steam...it is smoke.

 

[uss2defiant]

Is this typical only during a cold start?
The white smoke I mentioned wasn't during a cold start.

Thanks.

 

[tlrtucker]

Unless you're talking diesel engines, smoke is never "typical." It's usually a sign of something wrong.

As far as multiple codes being thrown - don't get too ahead of yourself when it comes to throwing parts at it. Often times if one sensor or part goes bad it can throw "false codes". When I had a coil go bad on my old 300M I was getting O2 sensor codes, catalytic converter codes, among others. Finally it threw a misfire code, I replaced that coil pack and everything went away. Not saying this is your issue, but definitely do some research before you sink a couple hundred bucks into it...

For the P1299 code - a quick google search (try it, lots of info) it looks like an EVAP leak, which is simple to fix. Common areas are back by the fuel tank, in front on the driver's side is the charcoal canister with 3 or 4 rubber hoses going in and out. Look those over, very common for those to crack and need to be replaced. I had to this on my '02 and it was about as easy as it gets. But shouldn't cause your kj to misfire. My guess is to double check your new sensor and the wire for it...

Also remember to clear out your codes after you try a fix...they don't always clear themselves out...disconnect your battery for a minute or two and then run it...

 

[cplchris]

Is this typical only during a cold start?
The white smoke I mentioned wasn't during a cold start.

Thanks.

no once the engine shuts off there is nothing to counteract the pressure in the cooling system. but the longer it sits for the more coolant will get into the cylinders.

 

[uss2defiant]

Okay, I think my plan of attack would be to

1. change the crankshaft and camshaft sensors
2. l was planning to replace the spark plugs already so I'll do that. I'll make sure to grab some pictures of the old sparkplugs for feedback from ya'll.
3. there was a electrical section in the Haynes manual which I'll use to make sure the electricals check out
4. I'll see what I can find on the EVAP leak, my google fu w/ the p1299 wasn't that good. Hopefully the Hayne's manual (which im starting to dislike) has some figures.
5. Clear the codes, fire the libby up and hope for the best.

Anything else I should add to that list?
Thanks!

ohhhh it's going to be a late night. ***** to be in AZ with no garage. Oh and it's currently monsoon season. Good chance of rain this weekend too. bleh....

 

[Leeann]

Then go here and get the REAL manual:
Index of /manuals/Jeep/KJ

 

[uss2defiant]

yup got them Haynes and FSM.
wish me luck.
Thanks.

Just got the gaps of the new spark plugs properly fitter.

 

[LibertyTC]

Good Luck and don't forget a sniff of anti-seize on threads and die-electric grease on spark plug end for coil pack excitement!
Now quit Monkeying around and start wrenching!
50027[/ATTACH]"]

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:gr_grin:

 

[uss2defiant]

Hey all,
Pepper, named by my wife cause she's red and hot like a chilli pepper, is back up running. so far.....
Thanks for all the feedback and comments.

So apparently I didn't get the memo, if it's a P0320, change both crankshaft and camshaft position sensors not just the crankshaft position sensor.

Knock on wood to keep bad juju away.

Trying to stay out of the heat.

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Anyways, here are the pictures of the spark plugs.
There was misfiring code on P302 and P303 which is 2nd and 3rd cylinder heads.
Here's the cylinder schematic diagram for reference

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Driver side rows:
Spark plug cylinder #1:

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Spark plug cylinder #3:

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Spark plug cylinder #5:

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Passenger side rows:
Spark plug cylinder #2:

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Spark plug cylinder #4:

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Spark plug cylinder #6:

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Due to the misfiring had to change the ignition coils

ignition coil cylinder #2

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ignition coil cylinder #3

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The other resistances of the rest of the coils were within specifications.

1. Comments on the plugs?
Doesn't look like there's any oil deposits on them. Not sure what the white spots mean. too hot?

2. Boots on the ignition coil are MIA as in the top part above the O-rings that fan out and go flush with the plug holes.. They may have broken off a long time ago. There were no signs of them sitting on the spark plugs looking down.
Replace the rest? Any work around to replacing the boot itself?


Still need to check for vaccum leaks.


Thanks.

 

[LibertyTC]

All the plugs look normal except cyl 2 looks rich/sooty deposits..from misfire...
Here is a quick color guide: http://www.fatheadsmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/check_spark_plug_condition.jpg
You bought 2 new coil packs at dealer or?
After clearing the codes in your current state.. what codes are now present?

 

[uss2defiant]

yeah #2 and #3 were bad from the misfiring which corresponds to the error codes P0302 and P0303, same goes for the coils.

Hayne's manual had pictures too but nothing matched the white stuff I was seeing on the ground electrode (is it called the 'nose'?). From the link you posted, it looks like it may indicated a 'detonation' issue. thoughts?

Interestingly, NAPA actually had repackaged MOPAR for the coils.
Napa box but plastic packaging indicated MOPAR part.
I take it MOPAR ones are a must here?
Any comments on the missing boot?

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Replace the rest of the coils? Not necessary since o-rings are good?

So for no more error codes but knock on wood.

Thanks!

 

[LibertyTC]

If there are no more codes you're good to go. Generally the OEM coil packs are long lasting.
So I would not worry about replacing the others until they are fried.
Overall like with any vehicle's electrical stuff, most will recommend go OEM or stay home.
Not sure what to say on boots, other than I wear them to protect my feet...LOL...
In the case of the coil packs I think they act as insulation and offer some vibration resistance...good to have included.

 

[uss2defiant]

troubleshooting other items.

ROFL
I think the top boot just prevents dirt from going in to the spark plug holes.
Maybe some googling might find out some replacements for those.

so Day+1 with the jeep, I noticed a difference with the idling RPM.
Is it normal w/ the jeep to have a higher idling speed at cold starts versus warm?
I didn't see this pre sensor issue.
Currently, it's around 950-1000 RPM at cold start and drops down to 700RPM when it warms up. Doesn't stall.
Something to do w/ the IAC?
I found LibertyTC's old post on cleaning it.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/help-help-help-engine-almost-stalling-low-rpms-47972/

Also, I was checking the PS hoses movement while the wifey turned the steering wheel while in park when the idle speed randomly spiked to 1200-1300 RPM. It dropped back down to ~700RPM after and I wasn't able to reproduced that.
The idling speed does drop a bit while turning the steering wheel but never below 500 RPM.

PS pump going bad?

 

[LibertyTC]

Clean the IAC as in my post u found. You may have a friginn stickn plunger= higher rpm.
Sometimes air is still in the steering system and need to get er out.
I took my jeep at slow speeds forward into figure 8s full turn left/rights to get the air out.
Re-Check The Steering fluid level and see if you notice any bubbles in fluid...

PS dont leave the jeep long in full cocked turns it will stress/over heat quick if u do..just short quick full turns while moving forward..