Drivers side lower than Passanger side

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nbas

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I have lifted my KJ recently according to my signature. I left it settle for 2 months, and after 2000KM (1250miles) i measured and saw that the drivers front wheel was almost 1,5cm (0,6") lower than the passanger side.
I measure from the center of the wheel up to the lower curve of the fender.
Yesterday i decided to perform a clevis lift in order to get the two sides even.
I started with the driver's wheel and set it to 3/8".
Then I measured again and saw that the driver's side was still lower than the passanger's side. So I decided not to do a clecis lift on the passanger side.
I finally ended with the following:

Front Left side: 19.49" (49.5cm)
nbas-albums-2004-jeep-kj-limited-picture6374-front-left-wheel.html


Front Right side: 19.92" (50.6cm)
nbas-albums-2004-jeep-kj-limited-picture6375-front-right-wheel.html


Rear Left side: 20.63" (52,4cm)
nbas-albums-2004-jeep-kj-limited-picture6376-rear-left-wheel.html


Rear Right side: 21.06" (53.5cm)
nbas-albums-2004-jeep-kj-limited-picture6377-rear-right-wheel.html



why is such a difference? I expected that after a 3/8" clevis lift of the front left side, it would be higher than the right side but it didn't happen... :Insane:

Any suggestions on what i shoud do to get all sides even?
Is it correct to do clevis lift on one side only?
 
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tommudd

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Yes been discussed many times, drivers side is always somewhat lower and the reason why wen we do lifts here we allow more ( height ) on the drivers side to compensate for that\Also sometimes you may need to switch rear springs side to side to see if that helps, if not a 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch shim is needed in the rear
 

nbas

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Yes, i suppose i am not the first one that this happens...
Therefore your suggestion is to leave the 3/8" clevis lift on the driver's side (only) and switch rear springs? (Is allignment needed?)
If that does not do anything, should i add an isolator only on the rear driver's side?

My problem is also that i have rubbing on the front fender on the driver's side...
 
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tommudd

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Yes, i suppose i am not the first one that this happens...
Therefore your suggestion is to leave the 3/8" clevis lift on the driver's side (only) and switch rear springs? (Is allignment needed?)
If that does not do anything, should i add an isolator only on the rear driver's side?

My problem is also that i have rubbing on the front fender on the driver's side...

Of course you are having rubbing issues since you are at basically stock height and running 245-75-16s
First should of used 927 springs in front to give a solid 2.5 inches of lift , you are at 19.50 or so in front, stock is 19 inches. So not much lift at all
With that size tire you need 2.5 inches of lift, or 21.5 inches from middle of the wheel to bottom of the flare
 
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nbas

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I was afraid that they would be to stiff...
Is it worth it to change now to 927? The cost of the springs is not so high, and truth is that when I do something I want to do it the right way...
So, 927 in front, swap the rear springs and measure again? Do I need bumpstops in front? Rear will be OK height wise or will it need isolators?
 
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tommudd

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I was afraid that they would be to stiff...
Is it worth it to change now to 927? The cost of the springs is not so high, and truth is that when I do something I want to do it the right way...
So, 927 in front, swap the rear springs and measure again? Do I need bumpstops in front? Rear will be OK height wise or will it need isolators?

927 front and 948 rear springs will give 2.5 inches of lift and it will sit level front to rear
Thats all I install here when doing KJs, (over 40 to date)
Yes teraflex bumpstops in front, and if you have hockey pucks there , 2 per side bolted down work great, if not then rubber hammer etc can be used
 

nbas

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Thanks!:winner_third_h4h:
I have bigger rear bumpstops, so I don't need anything else for the rear (948/N132l)
I will do it as soon as I come back from holidays!:gr_grin:
I will let you know of the outcome...
 

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