Need help with weird rattle

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houstoib

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Hey all,
I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport 4X4.

Lately, the weirdest problem has arisen and I can't track it down.

If I drive an extended time, like over a half hour shuttling around town, but it varies, a rattle starts growing from underneath the car. Eventually, it gets louder to where it sounds like the muffler is dragging on the ground. It's sort of more of a grinding noise.
More details:
The car's performance does not change. No indicator lights on, no codes thrown.
It only happens when the car is in motion, generally above 20 mph. No rattle if the car is idling and I press the gas. Does not change with the brakes or going around corners. It's all about the car moving itself and fully dependent on the speed. The faster you go, the louder it gets, until at about 35 where either I'm going too fast to hear it or it maxes/decreases, don't know.
Going over bumps doesn't do anything either, no change in rattle.
Shut the car off, let it cool down, start it up again: rattle gone. Doesn't come back unless you drive for an extended time again.

First thought was catalytic converter, but pushing the gas while in park does not generate any rattle. Obviously it has to do with the engine heating up and heating up some component that lies some distance from engine. But the time period between starting driving and when the rattle is heard varies considerably. Sometimes it never does it.

Any ideas? I had it into a mechanic, he drove it for an hour on the interstate and couldn't replicate it. Checked underneath and said, "Nothing stood out". It's driving me insane.
 
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houstoib

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houstoib

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Awesome. Took it out this morning. Loved the tutorial. Funny everyone had trouble removing the shaft after the bolts were out. Mine was just the opposite. I couldn't get the jeep to jack up properly, it rolled sideways one me once, so I just left it on the ground and pushed the car to turn the shaft to reach the other bolts.
Then someone's recommendation to use a flat head and a hammer to release the shaft was dead brilliant, came out in seconds.
I bagged and banded the t-case receiver to prevent stuff from getting in there, not sure if necessary.

My question: if I'm driving it, it means the diff end will turn while the t-case end won't. So won't this make it difficult to realign all the bolts?

Also, the Haynes manual says to mark the position with paint before removing it so that you reassemble it exactly as you left it., same bolt holes to threads. Does that really matter? All the bolts are the same and the cv is round, so I can't see the point.
 

yellocoyote

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In my experience, I've never had an issue getting the bolt holes to line back up.

I also don't put the same bolts back in the same place (or, at least I don't make that effort). What I do make sure of is that the bolts go back to the correct end of the driveshaft - you'll have longer/shorter bolts. Keep them on the same end that they came from.
 

tommudd

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Have the KJ on a flat surface when reinstalling and just roll the Jeep back and forth a little bit to align holes
OR
for those who are on the shorter side and can't climb under without jacking it up,
transfer case in neutral, front wheels off the ground, you can turn either end to align holes
Doesn't matter where the bolts go , throw the Haynes Manual away , they're for newbies with nothing better to do than read :icon_wink::bleh:
Oh and what she said above :icon_wink:
Another thing don't have to worry about anything getting in there while the driveshaft is out unless you're driving around in a field with a lot of cow patties
 

houstoib

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So, I asked in the "How to" section as well.
My CV joint is rusted like a **** onto the end. I've tried hammering the thing off and it won't budge. I've removed the retaining ring, but it just seems to not want to go anywhere.

Anybody have this issue? Any ideas? At this point, I'm just thinking to order a whole new driveshaft.
 

CzarKJ

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Just keep soaking it in something like breakfree. It will come eventually. Being in a salt state I feel your pain.
 
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