Bedlining Sport flares & bumpers

[Atrus]

I've been checking out Raptor DIY bedlining and am considering trying it once the weather is appropriate here in MI. I've got a 30 gallon compressor, and from everything I read, I should be just fine with that.

I am looking to spray the roof, beltline down, and the bumpers/flares.

What's needed on the bumpers/flares? Supposedly this product stays relatively flexible. Would roughing them up and spraying something like Bulldog Adhesion promoter work?

FYI, I have painted a vehicle before. Just 1. Certainly had it's flaws, but it didn't come out godawful. I'm fairly certain I have the skillset to do a decent enough job. I'm just not certain what would be needed as I've never done anything on plastic before, just metal.

Supposedly this stuff has a UV blocker on it to prevent fading.

 

[Atrus]

Oh, and the nice thing with the Raptor system...I can go piecemeal in a sense. I could easily remove all the plastic and spray the roof and sides of the body. Once those are wrapped up, I could spray the bumpers and flares. It comes in quart-sized bottles that hook directly to their gun. 4 quarts and the gun is about $100. So, 8 quarts and the gun and all needed materials could come in around $250-$300. Not too shabby, and I could always spray additional items as desired/needed.

 

[Atrus]

Hmmm - and per the manufacturer:

Hello -

I've read rave reviews of your do-it-yourself Raptor bedlining system and am heavily interested in using this on my Jeep Liberty Sport.

I'm curious to know if this product would work on unpainted plastic flares and bumpers, and if so, what type of prep would be needed. Is some type of primer needed to promote adhesion? To clarify - these pieces are completely uncoated and are just the dark grey OEM plastic.

Please advise on this application.

Raptor can be used on plastic without much prep. The plastic should be scuffed (220-320 grit), apply adhesion promoter (ie. Grip 4 or similar), wait 20 minutes and apply Raptor.

 

[tjkj2002]

Hmmm - and per the manufacturer:

Yeah they are thinking smooth,unpainted plastic.Yours is textured and you must remove all that texture 1st.Not a fun job by anymeans.Watched USAFCOP spend almost 4 hours doing the door inlay moldings before he could spray them with plastic primer.

 

[Atrus]

Hmmmm....well, that certainly blows. Maybe I need to find some cheap Limited flares and rear bumper. Wouldn't matter the color or if they are scuffed up or whatever. They can all be a different color for all I care.

I like the Sport front bumper better, so either I can sand that nonsense or just switch to a limited one.

 

[huntbuggy]

DIY bedliner - watch your Hootus.

Hmmmm....well, that certainly blows. Maybe I need to find some cheap Limited flares and rear bumper. Wouldn't matter the color or if they are scuffed up or whatever. They can all be a different color for all I care.

I like the Sport front bumper better, so either I can sand that nonsense or just switch to a limited one.

Crud. Just like you - in the same boat for this summer's paint project idea. Was seriously thinking about using this Raptor kit or even something like Herculiner on my Sport flares and trim pieces - to match whatever I do to the ARB bumper - preferably black or dark grey? I guess even if I shelled out the bucks to Line-X the prep on the plastic is still the big show stopper? I guess finding black Limited wrecks is my next step?

The idea of DIY with a sprayer seemed too easy to be true.

Just have to be careful not to get any on your Hootus!

(Explorer forum - ROFL thread)

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18595

:happy175:

 

[Atrus]

AHAHAHAHAAHA, what a maroon.

I fully plan on wearing latex gloves if/when I do this just because it seems like it'd be a mess.

 

[tjkj2002]

Spending the $$$ for painted limited flares/bumpers is more then worth it for prep time and longevity of the bedliner.My flares still look great and no cracking/flaking of the bedliner even after 9 years,but again mine is a limited so I started with the painted flares.

 

[tjkj2002]

AHAHAHAHAAHA, what a maroon.

I fully plan on wearing latex gloves if/when I do this just because it seems like it'd be a mess.

If sraying wear clothes you don't care about,shoes you don't care about,and cover everything you don't want sprayed very well.Have plenty of laquar thinner around also for making the clean up easier.

 

[tommudd]

Hmmmm....well, that certainly blows. Maybe I need to find some cheap Limited flares and rear bumper. Wouldn't matter the color or if they are scuffed up or whatever. They can all be a different color for all I care.

I like the Sport front bumper better, so either I can sand that nonsense or just switch to a limited one.

I have a Rene bumper down here that I would make you a heck of a deal on, only problem is it been cut off
I got it ready to install with some rene fenders, but now don't need the rear bumper

 

[honu]

Just out of curiosity, what's the problem with shooting textured fenders? I'm assuming that the "liner" product you're looking to use, will leave a textured finish when the work is completed, right?

If so, why would it be neccessary to sand the part smooth before painting it?

I've shot paint over textured panels before, after scuffing them with a red 3M pad and applying an adhesion promoter and acheived great results. On another piece, that I wanted a smooth finish on, I cleaned it well with "Pre-Cleano", shot it with the promoter, followed up with a high build primer. I sanded that until the surface was smooth and shot the coolor coat, then several coats of clear... all with a flex agent included.

That part's been on the car for several years now, with no flaking, peeling or chipping.

If we're talking about two diofferent things, disregard this entire post... Best of luck though on your project.

 

[Atrus]

Honu - I question the same thing, but apparently it won't stick well. If it were paint, I'd be willing to try as it could easily be sanded and corrected (it'd be a pain, but doable).

I don't want chunks of bedliner falling off.

I suppose the other option is to just do the doors and roof and leave the sport flares as-is for now. Can always spray them later.

 

[honu]

Honu - I question the same thing, but apparently it won't stick well. If it were paint, I'd be willing to try as it could easily be sanded and corrected (it'd be a pain, but doable).

I don't want chunks of bedliner falling off.

I suppose the other option is to just do the doors and roof and leave the sport flares as-is for now. Can always spray them later.

I'm not all that familiar with the properties of the "liner" materials, but I would think that if you put down a good adhesion promoter, it would hold on like any other "paint".

You raise a legitimate concern though... how about shooting the plastic parts with the promoter, then a coat of quality automotive paint as a base. After it's cured well, prep and shoot the parts with the "liner", as it's designed to bond to a painted surface.

Just a thought... how about obtaining a damaged section of fender from a body shop and do a test shoot, trying different techniques and see how it works out. Just make sure to add a flex agent to any paint you use. The natural expansion and contraction of the plastic will cause paint to crack, whether is subject to any impacts or not. I believe the liner has some inherent flexibility designed in, so adding the agent may not be required.

I think using the "liner" is a great idea... it's a very tough finish and if it's scratched, it's an easy fix.

I'll check with my supplier and see what he thinks would be the best way to go.

 

[honu]

Just checked with my paint supplier. He told me that the "liner" is no different than any other paint. His advice....

Because the plastic is porous and has been exposed to the elements, prep it by washing them in the hottest water you can stand, with plenty of a good, grease cutting dishwashing liquid. After rinsing really well and thoroughly drying, use a degreaser designed for auto painting.

Shoot a professional grade adhesion promoter, not the stuff from the local parts store, then lay on the liner material. He said it would bond just as well as any automotive paint.