save money$$$ by brake rotors(discs)

[nick25crd]

the mopar(52128247aa) rotors cost at the dealer about 300euros
the brembo rotors(09.8864.10) cost about 150euros
and they are better.

 

[LibertyFever]

Is it possible to have your brake rotors turned down instead of replacing them?

This week I plan to pop my brake rotors off and having a local garage or brake shop to turn them down for me providing there's enough material left.

 

[Atrus]

Yeah, the price of rotors has shot up. I bought oversized (police package) rotors for my Prix a few years back for $30 each. Stockers were $25 each. My wife's G6 was $40 each for the cheapest ones possible when I did a brake job last weekend!

So, $10 each to turn them

 

[tjkj2002]

Is it possible to have your brake rotors turned down instead of replacing them?

This week I plan to pop my brake rotors off and having a local garage or brake shop to turn them down for me providing there's enough material left.

Turning rotors is only a temp solution that can cause worse damage then what is already done,just pony up the money for new rotors.Is saving a few bucks really worth your life or your families?

 

[Marlon_JB2]

Turning rotors is only a temp solution that can cause worse damage then what is already done,just pony up the money for new rotors.Is saving a few bucks really worth your life or your families?

I agree...

New rotors are worth the extra cash. I honestly never understood that and doesn't it slightly reduce braking power? (I'm not sure)

 

[kj924]

I had my rotors turned lasted DEC. and since then I have had the rotors warp. The more you turn the rotor, the less material you have to disapate the heat of braking.

When you get the rotors turned, it doesn't diminish your braking power.

 

[tjkj2002]

When you get the rotors turned, it doesn't diminish your braking power.

Yes it does,the diminished ability to disapate heat severly reduces braking perfgormance.Plus if turned real close to the min thickness can/will over extend the pistons in the caliphers after time and leaks will occur which will lead to total loss if braking ability.

 

[Atrus]

I think you guys are splitting hairs here.

Unless you've turned them far below mfg spec, you're not going to overextend pistons

The few thousandths they shave off to smooth them out is NOT going to significantly affect the heat dissipation unless you're driving a F1 car or something. For most people driving their car to work and the store, the brakes will function just fine having them turned.

In theory, I agree with all arguments made against turning them. I just think that for a good 95% of people on the road, turning them down is just fine. There is a large difference between theory and reality.

 

[tjkj2002]

I think you guys are splitting hairs here.

Unless you've turned them far below mfg spec, you're not going to overextend pistons

The few thousandths they shave off to smooth them out is NOT going to significantly affect the heat dissipation unless you're driving a F1 car or something. For most people driving their car to work and the store, the brakes will function just fine having them turned.

In theory, I agree with all arguments made against turning them. I just think that for a good 95% of people on the road, turning them down is just fine. There is a large difference between theory and reality.

Turning a rotor a few thousands takes more material then you think,you should see the pile of metal left after turning a rotor.Many of the newer vehicles on the road have a very limited tolerance for the rotors,ussually as soon as the pads need to be replaced the rotors are also at/below specs and can not be turned(Toyota to name one).


And yes if you turn a rotor to the min thickness and wear out a set of pads you do run the chance of over-extending the calipher piston seals,have seen it many,many times over the last 3 months at my job.You also can not turn any rotor that has any hotspots on the rotor(bye-bye lathe bits),seen many of those also,and all from "soccer mom" daily drivers so that 95% of all that would be okay is the oppisite,it's the other 5% that can get away with.It's not "in thoery" but fact since I work on vehicles that poeple try those cheap fixes then have to dish out $1000+ to me to fix it the right way,which would have been the 1/3rd of the cost if they did it the right way to begin with.


You all to cheap to fix s#$t right the first time and then get mad when those "cheap fixes" leads to that one big($$$$$) fix,if you had done it right the first time you wouldn't ever have that problem.

 

[Atrus]

I, too, have turned rotors (personally completed it), and still disagree. Yes, rotors are "throw away" in a sense, however, I see no issue in turning them once, maybe twice. I used to just replace them, but with the cost going up like mad, it's worth it to turn them once.

I still disagree that a few thousandths on a normally worn rotor will cause significant changes in braking through decreased heat dissipation.

I'd counter that if you're seeing a lot of overextended caliper pistons, a larger culprit is running the brake pads down to the backing as I change them out while they still have a good 1/16" or more. I heartily disagree that the few thousands taken off from a proper turning is to blame.

I just turned my wife's rotors and have not a worry in the world about her driving her car.

 

[tjkj2002]

I still disagree that a few thousandths on a normally worn rotor will cause significant changes in braking through decreased heat dissipation.

You can disagree but it still does not change the fact that it does decrease braking performance,not so much in a 1970 Caddy but does more so in newer vehicles that are using tighter tolerances to save cost.

I used to just replace them, but with the cost going up like mad, it's worth it to turn them once.

Sure like to now where your getting your rotors from,except for my PowerSlots I have never paid more then $40 per rotor for the highest quality rotors from Napa or Carquest.Now a pickup or high performance car you got to expect to pay more for the rotors since they are larger then normal vehicles,which makes it more important to not turn the rotors.

I'd counter that if you're seeing a lot of overextended caliper pistons, a larger culprit is running the brake pads down to the backing as I change them out while they still have a good 1/16" or more. I heartily disagree that the few thousands taken off from a proper turning is to blame.

You should see the rotors poeple want me to turn(about 80% of the cars for brakes services),I'm suprised there car even stopped.



I'm ASE certified in brakes(both automotive and medium/HD trucks),brake certified/trained by GM and Chrysler also.I think I know a little about brakes and how crap effects the braking system along with factory athorized repair techniques.Not bragging but pointing out this is not my first brake job.

 

[Atrus]

I know you're extremely knowledgeable about anything with wheels.

$40 each for the cheapest rotors possible from Autozone, Pep Boys, Murrays Auto for a 2005 Pontiac G6.

For sure, most newer cars have "throwaway" rotors, I know the old ones you speak of were much beefier.

 

[tjkj2002]

Your G6 has those throw away rotors,only 0.1025" from new to discard thickness.Oh and you can get the premuim rotors for the G6 from Napa for about $48 each,lifetime warrenty also.

 

[kj924]

Thats why there is a minimun thickness to be measured. I agree with Atrus, turn them once IF they are turnable. Now that I see the results of mine being turned once, I am getting new rotors in the near future. The pulse inthe pedal is driving me nuts.

 

[tjkj2002]

Thats why there is a minimun thickness to be measured. I agree with Atrus, turn them once IF they are turnable. Now that I see the results of mine being turned once, I am getting new rotors in the near future. The pulse inthe pedal is driving me nuts.

That pedal "pulse" is the result from your rotors being turned,less metal = less ability to disapate heat resulting in premature warping and quicker brake fade.Just remember that after turning a rotor it still must be thicker then the min thickness,if not you need to get a new rotor.You also must always replace rotors as a pair,front pair or rear pair.

I won't turn a rotor if it is going to end up being close to the min thickness,just to much liability in todays "sue happy" world,pay the $400-$1000 bill or you sign a release of liability form.

 

[JeepJeepster]

I had mine machined around 20k ago and theyve been fine since.

Ill probably replace them when the time comes to replace the pads. So far its looking like the pads will out last everything else though. Cant tell theyve worn any at all in 32k.

 

[sprsonic]

i agree with atrus, rotors should/could be turned one time and then replaced before replacement. i have yet to see in my 17 years of slinging wrenches to see a caliper piston seal leaking, but then i dont do the aftermarket scene. dealership only for me. and mopar makes a factory "make it new" brake kit for 160.00. includes 2 front rotors, brake pads and shims. factory rotors alone sell for 140.00 each, and i know i'm bringing this thread back from the dead.

 

[Robocody]

You guys are correct that it takes away the ability to dissipate heat, but it does this gradually, and doesn't effect braking power until you are below the recommended minimum. It's a curve. That's what the minimum is there for.... It is the point at which the removal of metal actually effects performance. Before that, the effects are negligible, unless amplified by modification, such as larger wheels or tires.

I mean, braking removes metal, too... so by your reasoning you'd have to replace them every couple of months just to keep peak brake performance, right?

 

[jnaut]

And yes if you turn a rotor to the min thickness and wear out a set of pads you do run the chance of over-extending the calipher piston seals,have seen it many,many times over the last 3 months at my job.

Isn't that the point of the minimum thickness? That the mfg provides the minimum thickness to account for more worn pads?

Also, to defer to tj's concerns, is it possible that some machine shops turn the rotors too far? I mean, in the end, when we go get our rotors turned, we're depending on the machine shop to actually use a micrometer and leave the rotors thicker than the minimum.

 

[gmctd]

Open the box, remove the aftermarket disc\rotor, and even the most casual comparison to those oem union-made abortions will restore any lost confidence in braking power, pedal response\feel, and balance - they easily meet race-balancing, all surfaces are machined, parallel, and concentric to the spindle-bearing bore, and original thickness dimension spec is met - as comparison, oem raw castings are tossed on the brake machine - if they stick, push the START button to apply the dull cutters in the position where it stuck, not even casual eyeball pre-alignment is done to center the raw casting - the resulting criminally-offset and uncentered mass is then tossed on the balance machine, which proceeds to grind and drill out enuff of the uncentered mass so as to barely meet minimum balance requirements - then this heavily rusting reject rotor is placed on your KJ, calipers and pads are attached, and off it rolls

Sadly, even oem disc thickness is more closely compatible with Honda, Hyundai, Mazda, Subaru, Toyota, etc mini-car brakes - no way I'd cut those thin rotors, when new replacements are so inexpensive, easily available, and mechanically and esthetically pleasing

Again, compare even the cheap 'zone rotors to oem, for a cultural shock

That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it...................