Radiator Hose Clamps

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uss2defiant

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if I'm not mistaken the bleeder on the t-stat is just a hole or a one way valve that should be on the top side.
wouldn't think it would rattle.
 

profdlp

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There's a brass plug which is flat on one side and has enough play on the part that goes through the hole in the thermostat so it can wiggle around. I was preoccupied with getting the water pump done (and fighting the ten-degree temperature in the driveway where I was doing this) and didn't pay a lot of attention, but it seems to me that the brass part was on there rather well when I put the thermostat in. When things went south I yanked it and stuck the old one back in. That's when I first noticed it rattling around. I wish I had a picture of the backside to show you.

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LibertyTC

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I think someone just stole one of my photos LOL..( I will take that as a compliment)
If there is air some will go though the thermostat. Rattle Hmmm....
Have you been topping it off from the overflow bottle Prof?
When hot and full ....using the bleed air screw at all?
 

profdlp

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The thermostat in question is the new one. It is getting air through it because it is sitting in my garage on a pile of stuff right now. :icon_lol:

I guess my question is: Is it normal for the brass piece to be very loose?
 

LibertyTC

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I do remember the brass piece being able to move back and forth a bit.
 

CactusJacked

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I guess my question is: Is it normal for the brass piece to be very loose?

Yes, yes it is. That piece is called a jiggle pin. The hole in the flange allows air to bleed, but the flat top part of the pin acts as a valve when the stat is closed on a cold engine, to help the engine warm up faster than if that were a wide open hole.
 

profdlp

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I'm betting that the thermostat was just fine and the problems I had were due to having trouble filling it.

I think I'll keep this one as an emergency spare and just order a new one. The local Jeep dealer gouged me mercilessly for it (I decided to get it the morning I did the water pump and had no choice), but I found one at Avondale for about half what I paid the dealer. I'm going to order the lower hose, new clamps for it, and a new thermostat and get it done.

Thanks! :favorites13:
 

LibertyTC

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I have noticed how many of my pics are associated to Jeep KJ site and Liberty searches.
Too bad I cant charge a royalty :icon_lol:
Could have 2 Jeeps By now! :gr_grin:
 

jp7794

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Wow, after reading this thread I am starting to doubt myself. Why is everyone insisting on spring clamps? For years I have been replacing those spring loaded clamps with "worm" clamps because they are such a pain in the @ss. There is not that much pressure going through the hose. I always come back a week later and re-tighten them due to the fact things expand and contract with heat cycles. I guess the spring clamp would adjust for that, but otherwise see no reason to use them. Maybe I am just old school.
 

profdlp

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I'm not putting myself forward as an expert, but I have three spring clamps which don't leak and one worm gear clamp which does. I tightened the worm gear clamp and have it OK for now, but I swear it looks like it's cutting into the hose. I will be replacing both hoses and all four clamps with new stock as soon as the lower hose gets here, which ought to be this week. :)
 

profdlp

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I now have both hoses and four new clamps, plus plenty of HOAT on hand and a new thermostat to boot. I may wait and do this in a month or two because I probably have a long trip coming up in the next few weeks. If there is a problem I would rather have it locally rather than out in the middle of nowhere.
 

uss2defiant

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do you have a new t-stat housing? It's plastic and you might need to replace it.

got one of those spring hose clamp pliers? :D
 

profdlp

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do you have a new t-stat housing? It's plastic and you might need to replace it.
You're the second person to mention that. The answer is, no I don't. I hope I'm not making an emergency trip to the dealer in a borrowed car. The thing is, I thought about replacing it during the first abortive attempt at the thermostat when I was doing my water pump. I was just really careful not to over tighten anything. I thinks it requires 10 ft-lbs of torque.

got one of those spring hose clamp pliers? :D
The answer is no again, and I hope I'm not regretting it. Like I said, I probably won't do this for another few weeks. If it starts bothering me I may try to pick up both the housing and the pliers. I looked for them at Harbor Freight but didn't see anything for the clamps. Of course, since I've never had a pair of that type of pliers I may have looked right at them and not known it. :gr_grin:
 

uss2defiant

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I think local auto part store bought housing should be fine.
20 ft-lbs is what's required.

I've found channel locks to work well.
There's this
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Btw did you post the part numbers of the spring clamps you used?

Thanks.
 
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profdlp

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My memory was that it was 15 ft-lbs, but that seemed high so I lowered my guess. I did look it up the last time. 20 it is. :)

Lower Hose: 55037912AA
Lower Hose Clamps: 55037660AA-M

Upper Hose: 55037903AB
Upper Hose Clamps: 52029090AA

I love the look of that clamp pliers but can't find one cheap. I have channel locks in all sorts of sizes and that's what I used last time.
 

uss2defiant

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cool. Thanks.
HF doesn't have that cable stye spring clamp pliers.
Amazon seem to have them from 20-30 dollars.

I'm sure your there's enough room to use channel locks for rad hoses.
wish I didn't get rid of my power steering spring clamps.
 
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