KJ CRD Engine Stuck

[Russ1940]

Was driving my '06 Liberty CRD on the freeway at about 60 mph when I heard a **** and it quit running. I wasn't in a good spot to stop so I put it into neutral and coasted about 300 yards to an off ramp. Had it towed to my garage and got a call today. They said the engine is stuck, they can't even turn it over with a bar. A month or so back I put a lot of money into it (new timing belt and a lot of other maintenance items) and was planning on driving it another 100k miles (current mileage is about 160k)! The garage told me they can't diagnose the problem without taking it apart and that's likely putting good money after bad. It's been a really good car and I have enjoyed driving it for 11 years. Probably junkyard material now. ((

I'll go talk to them tomorrow and ask if there's any possibility that the new timing belt broke. See what they say...

The asterisks were typed as "****" don't know why it didn't like it! b a n g

 

[duderz7]

That stinks, hopefully it's not as bad as it sounds.

 

[Russ1940]

That stinks, hopefully it's not as bad as it sounds.

Thanks... At this time I'm not thinking of having it diagnosed.

 

[nbwajdr]

I had a similar thing happen to my CRD. Turns out that two rocker arms broke at the same time. It was a simple fix.

 

[turblediesel]

The biggest reason for CRD blowups is the timing belt. The original ceramic glow plugs are another cause. They break off and can hold a valve open for a piston to hit causing big, or huge, problems. The water pump should be replaced every time the timing belt is changed because they don't last two timing belts. Another problem is the amount of crud caked into the intake by the EGR system. Some crud can pile up on a valve stem letting a valve stick open for the piston to hit. Sometimes the exhaust valve seat can come loose from the head interfering with the valve and piston. And some think the exhaust valves just break.

There's a roving CRD mechanic (user named "Geordi") on the LOSTJEEPS forum who might be helpfull. In any case your CRD parts are valuable to other CRD owners so please don't just haul it to the dump. If you're not on LOSTJEEPS I can pass your info on to Geordi or post an ad there for you if you PM your info to me.

 

[Russ1940]

The biggest reason for CRD blowups is the timing belt. The original ceramic glow plugs are another cause. They break off and can hold a valve open for a piston to hit causing big, or huge, problems. The water pump should be replaced every time the timing belt is changed because they don't last two timing belts. Another problem is the amount of crud caked into the intake by the EGR system. Some crud can pile up on a valve stem letting a valve stick open for the piston to hit. Sometimes the exhaust valve seat can come loose from the head interfering with the valve and piston. And some think the exhaust valves just break.

There's a roving CRD mechanic (user)named "Geordi" on the LOSTJEEPS forum who might be helpfull. In any case your CRD parts are valuable to other CRD owners so please don't just haul it to the dump. If you're not on LOSTJEEPS I can pass your info on to Geordi or post an ad there for you if you PM your info to me.

Thanks for your post. I visited the shop this a.m. and it did not go well. They told me the engine was out of oil. My reply was you did an oil change less than 3k miles ago. They said the dip stick showed no oil. This car did NOT burn oil and there was no sign of leakage. I'd see it approach the add oil level at 6k - 7k (I'd let it go that as the owner's manual recommends 7.5k). I think they're lying to me but I can't prove it. They're recommendation is replace the engine but I won't be doing that. I'll see if I can sign up for LOSTJEEPS, thanks for the tip!

 

[Russ1940]

Thanks for your post. I visited the shop this a.m. and it did not go well. They told me the engine was out of oil. My reply was you did an oil change less than 3k miles ago. They said the dip stick showed no oil. This car did NOT burn oil and there was no sign of leakage. I'd see it approach the add oil level at 6k - 7k (I'd let it go that as the owner's manual recommends 7.5k). I think they're lying to me but I can't prove it. They're recommendation is replace the engine but I won't be doing that. I'll see if I can sign up for LOSTJEEPS, thanks for the tip!

Hmm, how does one send a PM?

 

[turblediesel]

Hmm, how does one send a PM?

Click on the envelope next to the bell.

I think you'd have had a check engine light if you were out of oil. Remember the days when that's all the check engine light meant?

 

[Russ1940]

Click on the envelope next to the bell.

I think you'd have had a check engine light if you were out of oil. Remember the days when that's all the check engine light meant?

Can't find a bell and can't seem to get past the items sort to register in LostJeeps. Please pass my info on to Geordi! Thanks!

I'm taking it to another shop for their diagnosis. If the timing belt is intact I'm out of ideas and will move on. I have a friend that offered to tow it to a Jeep wrecking yard.

 

[turblediesel]

The envelope and bell are on top of the screen on my android mobile. Maybe it's different on whatever you're using. I see the menu symbol in the upper left corner and to the right side are; avatar, envelope, bell, lightning bolt, and magnifying glass. I'll send you a PM and your elusive envelope should show an orange square with a "1" designating 1 unread message.

Or, just click on my snowy jeep avatar and click on "start conversation".

 

[Russ1940]

Last night I left a rather scathing review online for the shop that gave me the "out of oil" diagnosis. This morning I got a call from the service manager who offered to do a more thorough diagnosis at their cost. Can't say no to that! I'm not expecting a better outcome but maybe I'll be happier with the new explanation.

 

[turblediesel]

Just reread your original post and noticed your timing belt replacement was only a month ago. An easy mistake is to get it all together timed and tensioned properly and then have the belt settle-in and ease the tensioner enough out of specifications to where it can jump teeth and timing. The rocker/lifters are designed to break but damage varies. Maybe that's what happened. Some folks run the engine for a few minutes without hooking up all the turbo and coolant hoses and then re-tension the belt before buttoning it all up.

It's nice your shop cares about their reputation. Better than the previous "no oil" get-lost response.

 

[Russ1940]

Thanks, I'll share what you just posted with them. Yep on the call back. Maybe they are as trustworthy as I had thought prior to this experience.

 

[Russ1940]

After thinking more about the re-tensioning comment, how would one know that happened? Wouldn't everything with the timing belt look A-OK if opened up?

 

[turblediesel]

Results vary. Sometimes they skip a tooth and run poorly; other times the demons of destruction run rampant through the engine.

The notch on the tensioner won't be lined up with the mark on the engine. The belt doesn't actually stretch. It's just the bends in the new belt from being in the cardboard sleeve skew the length of the belt a bit. The bends make the belt a little bit shorter until it's run in a little which relaxes the tensioner setting out of spec. The spring tension isn't very much.

 

[Lomita]

Was driving my '06 Liberty CRD on the freeway at about 60 mph when I heard a **** and it quit running. I wasn't in a good spot to stop so I put it into neutral and coasted about 300 yards to an off ramp. Had it towed to my garage and got a call today. They said the engine is stuck, they can't even turn it over with a bar. A month or so back I put a lot of money into it (new timing belt and a lot of other maintenance items) and was planning on driving it another 100k miles (current mileage is about 160k)! The garage told me they can't diagnose the problem without taking it apart and that's likely putting good money after bad. It's been a really good car and I have enjoyed driving it for 11 years. Probably junkyard material now. ((

I'll go talk to them tomorrow and ask if there's any possibility that the new timing belt broke. See what they say...

The asterisks were typed as "****" don't know why it didn't like it! b a n

 

[fitz54]

The biggest reason for CRD blowups is the timing belt. The original ceramic glow plugs are another cause. They break off and can hold a valve open for a piston to hit causing big, or huge, problems. The water pump should be replaced every time the timing belt is changed because they don't last two timing belts. Another problem is the amount of crud caked into the intake by the EGR system. Some crud can pile up on a valve stem letting a valve stick open for the piston to hit. Sometimes the exhaust valve seat can come loose from the head interfering with the valve and piston. And some think the exhaust valves just break.

There's a roving CRD mechanic (user named "Geordi") on the LOSTJEEPS forum who might be helpfull. In any case your CRD parts are valuable to other CRD owners so please don't just haul it to the dump. If you're not on LOSTJEEPS I can pass your info on to Geordi or post an ad there for you if you PM your info to me.

 

[fitz54]

The biggest reason for CRD blowups is the timing belt. The original ceramic glow plugs are another cause. They break off and can hold a valve open for a piston to hit causing big, or huge, problems. The water pump should be replaced every time the timing belt is changed because they don't last two timing belts. Another problem is the amount of crud caked into the intake by the EGR system. Some crud can pile up on a valve stem letting a valve stick open for the piston to hit. Sometimes the exhaust valve seat can come loose from the head interfering with the valve and piston. And some think the exhaust valves just break.

There's a roving CRD mechanic (user named "Geordi") on the LOSTJEEPS forum who might be helpfull. In any case your CRD parts are valuable to other CRD owners so please don't just haul it to the dump. If you're not on LOSTJEEPS I can pass your info on to Geordi or post an ad there for you if you PM your info to me.

The biggest reason for CRD blowups is the timing belt. The original ceramic glow plugs are another cause. They break off and can hold a valve open for a piston to hit causing big, or huge, problems. The water pump should be replaced every time the timing belt is changed because they don't last two timing belts. Another problem is the amount of crud caked into the intake by the EGR system. Some crud can pile up on a valve stem letting a valve stick open for the piston to hit. Sometimes the exhaust valve seat can come loose from the head interfering with the valve and piston. And some think the exhaust valves just break.

There's a roving CRD mechanic (user named "Geordi") on the LOSTJEEPS forum who might be helpfull. In any case your CRD parts are valuable to other CRD owners so please don't just haul it to the dump. If you're not on LOSTJEEPS I can pass your info on to Geordi or post an ad there for you if you PM your info to me.

 

[fitz54]

I would like to speak with Geordi myself. I have a 2005 CRD that has had a couple of power issues. The mechanic I used was local and very good generally but not fully aware of CRD specifically. He twice got it up and running again after low power and much smoking from tailpipe by doing something with exhause lifters I believe. Obviously not the solution. I haven't driven it for awhile since I got a 2015 Grand Cherokee. I'm in Damascus area and would probably have to tow it. I do want to get it going again to either sell or keep. Help.

 

[geordi]

Hey - I don't know if you were still looking for me, but I apparently have been here all this time and didn't know it. Email is the most reliable way to get me though: jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com and I'd be happy to discuss helping your CRD if you still have issues with it.