Its time I introduced myself.

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Bunnyfoofoo

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Hi,

I have lurked these forums for the past couple of years but never posted. I guess its time I introduced myself. I bought my 04 Jeep Liberty back in 2021. It was love at first test drive. Unfortunately, I had no idea all of the work she needed. I ended up having some health issues that prevented me from leaving the house much for the first year and half of ownership so she didn't get driven a lot. But I have been driving her regularly for that past 9 months and I just love her more everyday. She's got everything a girl could ever want in a car. Tuns of get up and go and room in the back for all my shoes. (Kidding! I mean craft supplies :)) Anyway, that is what brings me to you fine folks. For the past few months I have been struggling to get a situation resolved. In October I started experiencing shuddering in the back that felt like I was almost driving over one of those rumble strips on the highway whenever I accelerated to about 45 mph. I have taken it 3 different shops and none of them seem to be able to figure out what is wrong with her. After I left her sitting for a few weeks because I was afraid that by driving her I would be causing more wear and tear on the transmission, I did some more research. I believe the ujoints need to be replaced in my rear drive shaft. But I can't get any shop to take care of this for love nor money, and its driving me crazy! (No pun intended) I was able to get a shop to replace the front drive shaft, but as I was looking for places to buy a new rear drive shaft I realized they had put a different kind in than what was originally in my car. The first photo (the one with the dust boot) is what was originally on my car and the second is the replacement. Does anyone know if replacing one with the other is good or bad? This whole thing has been a giant pain in the butt. I appreciate any clarity you all can give me. Thank you!
 

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Xterra4x4

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Hi,

I have lurked these forums for the past couple of years but never posted. I guess its time I introduced myself. I bought my 04 Jeep Liberty back in 2021. It was love at first test drive. Unfortunately, I had no idea all of the work she needed. I ended up having some health issues that prevented me from leaving the house much for the first year and half of ownership so she didn't get driven a lot. But I have been driving her regularly for that past 9 months and I just love her more everyday. She's got everything a girl could ever want in a car. Tuns of get up and go and room in the back for all my shoes. (Kidding! I mean craft supplies :)) Anyway, that is what brings me to you fine folks. For the past few months I have been struggling to get a situation resolved. In October I started experiencing shuddering in the back that felt like I was almost driving over one of those rumble strips on the highway whenever I accelerated to about 45 mph. I have taken it 3 different shops and none of them seem to be able to figure out what is wrong with her. After I left her sitting for a few weeks because I was afraid that by driving her I would be causing more wear and tear on the transmission, I did some more research. I believe the ujoints need to be replaced in my rear drive shaft. But I can't get any shop to take care of this for love nor money, and its driving me crazy! (No pun intended) I was able to get a shop to replace the front drive shaft, but as I was looking for places to buy a new rear drive shaft I realized they had put a different kind in than what was originally in my car. The first photo (the one with the dust boot) is what was originally on my car and the second is the replacement. Does anyone know if replacing one with the other is good or bad? This whole thing has been a giant pain in the butt. I appreciate any clarity you all can give me. Thank you!
How many miles are on your Lib? Also do you do your own mechanical work?Lastly check the U-joints!
 

Bunnyfoofoo

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How many miles are on your Lib? Also do you do your own mechanical work?Lastly check the U-joints!
I've currently got a 182,000 miles on it but I bought it with 175,000. Despite that it has been a very reliable car. LOL. I am *trying* to check the u-joints! Silly me trusting people to work on my car. I don't know how a drive shaft with a sticker on it from 2003 covered in rust would make someone say, this looks like its perfectly fine, no need to change out those u-joints. :) Smh. Thanks for the reply.
 

Deb'nKJ

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Personally, I think they did you a favour by replacing the front shaft with what they have: undoubtedly cheaper & will never need replacing again as it's repairable.

Drive shafts are often rusty, depending on age & operating conditions, but what's important is the state of the u-joints, which has more to do with mileage and use.

I can well understand shops not wanting to work on KJ's & the front shaft is weird (in my eyes) & refitting it is only marginally less of a pita than removing it but, from memory, the rear one is conventional, old school so any 1/2-competant mechanic should be able to do the job & be willing to take it on. If you don't fancy groveling under the Jeep yourself to check the joints, try asking your friendly neighbourhood car freak (that'll be the guy down the street whose ride always has the hood up or a wheel off).

Oh yeah - welcome to the asylum & the joys of KJ ownership.
 

Xterra4x4

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I've currently got a 182,000 miles on it but I bought it with 175,000. Despite that it has been a very reliable car. LOL. I am *trying* to check the u-joints! Silly me trusting people to work on my car. I don't know how a drive shaft with a sticker on it from 2003 covered in rust would make someone say, this looks like its perfectly fine, no need to change out those u-joints. :) Smh. Thanks for the reply.
I've done my own maintainance work on all of my 4x4s, the only way I now it done right, My Lib came from the Portland , Ore. area and u-joints and bearing go first. My lib has 162k bought with 136k and did a lot of work. New radiator-hoses-water pump-resivoir, new heater-core, new automatic transmission, ($3000) new front struts-ti rod ends, also fix transfer case shifter cable twice. good luck on yours
 

KJowner

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The CV on the front shaft is easy enough to do, I think the V6 is slightly different but I did my CRD one a couple of years ago and don't remember anything being a problem.
 

Bunnyfoofoo

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I've done my own maintainance work on all of my 4x4s, the only way I now it done right, My Lib came from the Portland , Ore. area and u-joints and bearing go first. My lib has 162k bought with 136k and did a lot of work. New radiator-hoses-water pump-resivoir, new heater-core, new automatic transmission, ($3000) new front struts-ti rod ends, also fix transfer case shifter cable twice. good luck on yours
Yeah, I have been slowly replacing and repairing things on mine. I am finding out the hard (and expensive) way that I have to do the repairs myself if I want them done right. I have learned so much about 4 wheel drive cars than I ever wanted to know. Ugh. But like you said, if you want it done right, you gotta do it yourself. I bought a Chilton manual the other day that has helped answer some questions. I think I am also going to get a Haynes.
 

KJowner

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Yeah, I have been slowly replacing and repairing things on mine. I am finding out the hard (and expensive) way that I have to do the repairs myself if I want them done right. I have learned so much about 4 wheel drive cars than I ever wanted to know. Ugh. But like you said, if you want it done right, you gotta do it yourself. I bought a Chilton manual the other day that has helped answer some questions. I think I am also going to get a
If you search on here you'll find a link to download the full OEM service manuals for free.
 

LibertyTC

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Welcome to the forums. What city or country do you live in?
The 2004 was probably the best year as it did not suffer from window regulator issues.
Have you obtained the build sheet for your Jeep?
If it has the Trac Loc rear differential, it will require the 4 oz bottle of Mopar friction modifier.
Try this link below, enter in your VIN number !
https://fcagroup.my.site.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing
 

Deb'nKJ

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The CV on the front shaft is easy enough to do, I think the V6 is slightly different but I did my CRD one a couple of years ago and don't remember anything being a problem.
Just removing the front shaft on a V6 is a nightmare, as several posts througout this forum will attest. I could change the shaft on an XJ in less time than it took to undo the bolts on the KJ. It is probably the best example of how the KJ is needlessly complex, difficult &/or expensive to work on. Going back to UJ's might be regressive - but a huge improvement, certainly on a 4x4 with any pretensions of being an off-roader.
 

Bunnyfoofoo

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Just removing the front shaft on a V6 is a nightmare, as several posts througout this forum will attest. I could change the shaft on an XJ in less time than it took to undo the bolts on the KJ. It is probably the best example of how the KJ is needlessly complex, difficult &/or expensive to work on. Going back to UJ's might be regressive - but a huge improvement, certainly on a 4x4 with any pretensions of being an off-roader.
Yeah, the tech said that removing my old front shaft took so long partially because the bolts were cross threaded. But hopefully I won't have to worry about that much longer. I've got my Chilton (I am amazed at how much information it contains) and will be picking up a new floor jack and some jack stands this afternoon. I am ready to get dirty!
 

Deb'nKJ

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I can see that X-threaded bolts would only make the nightmare worse (which I hadn't thought possible) but, from memory, that wasn't the problem - despite Jeep deciding that, after 100-odd years, the flanges needed 6 - it was separating the flanges & finagling the the damn thing out. Certainly on a V6 it'd be easier with the exhaust out of the way - but I couldn't work out how to remove the exhaust with the shaft in place.

Never mind Chiltons, what you'll need is "Zen & the Art of Restoring Your Sanity" - you're gonna love it!
 

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