Shoot I got a cheap set of 4 rotors on ebay a little over a year ago and they're still true (no runout at all).
I use duralast gold pads and duralast reman lifetime warranty calipers.. work like a dream..
But as for what's causing your pull and warped rotors..
My guess would be Excessive heat buildup from bottom of the barrel pads for 30k, or a caliper/caliper slide pins/hose for whichever wheel is pulling..
Before doing anything, I'd take the tires and swap sides with the them before trying anything else..
Just to see if your wheel is the problem and not your brakes, then move to the brakes if the pull stays to the same side..
Good time to rotate your tires if needed!
If your new pads and rotors squeaked from the start, my guess is you've been living with a small problem during this period.
Anti-rattle clips not greased or installed with the pads, a slightly hanging up caliper, or somebody crimped your brake hose trying to squeeze it with vice grips when working on your brakes.. or let the caliper hang by the hose when doing the brakes.
The thing things tend to be what cause the issues you can't figure out.
First, id switch the tires and if no change..
jack up each wheel individually and look for the culprit wheel that is hard to turn.. or hangs up in certain areas while turning. Also look for those that are squeaking.
For the front, have the vehicle in park, ebrake pulled.
For the rear, Chuck the front wheels very well and make sure you're on level ground.. then proceed to put the car in N and Jack up each rear wheel individually..
Jacking up both rear wheels while in reverse and the ebrake not engaged, raises your chances of dropping a car...wheel chucks work well, but things can still happen.
Hopefully this will help you to find which wheels are hanging up/squeaking.
If/When you find the wheel that's hard to turn, I'd check the slide pins on the caliper before assuming that it's bad.
Remove the caliper from the wheel, and inspect your brake pads.if the brake pads are worn toward one side, it's likely that one of the slide pins in the caliper is stuck.
You can check the slide pins by removing the caliper from the caliper bracket by the 2 bolts, but leave the caliper bracket mounted. Push in on the slide pins and each should compress freely by hand and be able to be removed easily.
If either doesn't compress by hand, you've found the culprit slide pin causing uneven distribution of pressure from the caliper to the pads/rotor surface which can cause your rotors to warp.
You can pick up brake hardware kits from AZ.. I'd imagine napa, advanced, etc. Would carry them as well, but I've just used AZs, so can't comment on the others
But the kit from AZ will come with anti rattle clips, slide pins and all related rubber prices for the slide pins.. may come with new caliper guide bolts but I don't recall..
As for the squeaking, I always put brake grease on the anti rattle clips before seating them onto the caliper bracket.
Pay attention to which go on the top and which go on bottom as its very easy to overlook which one goes where. The flat side of the clip should face toward the rotor and the bent side should face outward. If installed backwards, will squeak against rotor (ask me how I know lol)..
Grease them, be sure they're in the correct position, and then reinstall the pads.
Be sure not to get the grease on the pads or rotors, if you do.. remove with brake cleaner.. lubricants on a friction surface is no good. I use brakleen.. which is the same company brake grease I use..I usually hit the rotors with brakleen while I'm down there just for good measure and clean it all of at the end as well.
Be sure to load the new slide pins up with grease before installing the rubber boots on them and putting into the bracket, or they will eventually stick again.
If you've checked all this, and there's no change from switching sides on the tires, all wheels rotate freely with no catching or squeaking, all slide pins are properly lubricated and movable, pads worn even and still good, all anti rattle clips installed properly, and no calipers show any signs of being stuck..
Then I would turn to your brake hose and inspect it..if it gets to this point I can help you to check this part as well.
A I've said.. I used bottom of the barrel rotors, but putting good pads and calipers around them, I've never had a single squeak (did from a front wheel bearing for about a month though)..
So for having to go highend, no.
Just making sure the little things are all correct..
I realize I gave a lot of info, so if you want me to simplify it, or need help as you go, or just can't figure it out..
Feel free to shoot me a PM and I can walk you through the process while you do it to the Jeep if need be.
I hope you get your issue resolved soon!!
