Engine light is on with code P0700 and P0740 TCC issue

[Phuc Nguyen]

2004 Jeep Liberty, 3.7L.
First, code P0137, O2 sensor 1, bank2. This issue is corrected and then code P0700 and P0740 came up.

At 70mph, rpm varies between 2200 to 2500, seems like the torque converter did not lock-up.
I know this for sure because I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty to compare with.

1). Replaced transmission fluid and filter. Did not correct the issue.
2). Replaced valve body, parts# 04800171AA, fluid and filter. Did not correct the issue.
3). Checked all wirings, no visible sign of corrosion or frayed.
4). Opened up PCM unit, did not see any loose, burnt or corrosion.

Main issue is the Jeep would not pass inspection with engine light on in Pennsylvania.

Does anyone has similar sympton on these codes or what reccomendation should I go next.
Any input is greatly appreciated.


* Update, 12/17/2019, I drove my 2005 Liberty to pick up my daughter home from college, about 250 miles round trip. During the trip, 90% is turnpike highway, I pay close attention to the behavior of this 05 Liberty, such as speed and RPM.

After comparison, my 04 Liberty is the about the same. At 70 mph, RPM is about 2200 and increases between 200-400 on incline and return to 2200 on flat roadways. That means PCM did send signal to valvebody/sensor for a lock-up but torque converter internal clutch is slipping.

My last two options are:
5). Replace torque converter. If this step does not fix the issue, step 6 will be my final option.
6). Replace the transmission.

Will update with my result and thank you everyone who reads this post.

 

[lfhoward]

Welcome from a fellow Pennsylvanian. Sorry I don’t know the answer to your question. I’d probably take it to my mechanic at this point. I can do basic engine maintenance but transmissions are a little out of my comfort zone.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

2004 Jeep Liberty, 3.7L.
First, code P0137, O2 sensor 1, bank2. This issue is corrected and then code P0700 and P0740 came up.

At 70mph, rpm varies between 2200 to 2500, seems like the torque converter did not lock-up.
I know this for sure because I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty to compare with.

1). Replaced transmission fluid and filter. Did not correct the issue.
2). Replaced valve body, parts# 04800171AA, fluid and filter. Did not correct the issue.
3). Checked all wirings, no visible sign of corrosion or frayed.
4). Opened up PCM unit, did not see any loose, burnt or corrosion.

Main issue is the Jeep would not pass inspection with engine light on in Pennsylvania.

Does anyone has similar sympton on these codes or what reccomendation should I go next.
Any input is greatly appreciated.


* Update, 12/17/2019, I drove my 2005 Liberty to pick up my daughter home from college, about 250 miles round trip. During the trip, 90% is turnpike highway, I pay close attention to the behavior of this 05 Liberty, such as speed and RPM.

After comparison, my 04 Liberty is the about the same. At 70 mph, RPM is about 2200 and increases between 200-400 on incline and return to 2200 on flat roadways. That means PCM did send signal to valvebody/sensor for a lock and -up but torque converter internal clutch is slipping.

My last two options are:
5). Replace torque converter. If this step does not fix the issue, step 6 will be my final option.
6). Replace the transmission.

Will update with my result and thank you everyone who reads this post.

* Update, 2/27/2020, weather in South Central PA was giving me a break to replace torque converter.
Yes, indeed it was torque converter issue. No more slipping on highway speed and have a lot of torque going uphill.
Got it from Autozone for $170, sold by Precision from Erie, Pennsylvania.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

Welcome from a fellow Pennsylvanian. Sorry I don’t know the answer to your question. I’d probably take it to my mechanic at this point. I can do basic engine maintenance but transmissions are a little out of my comfort zone.

Hi Jeff, have a question for you and other members as well. Any input is appreciated.
Air bag light on intermittently, while waiting for parts to arrive, I drove 2011 Liberty 150 miles one way, during return, right front wheel squealing and transmision temp symbol lit up, pull over emergency pull off, front right wheel is very hot, not touchable. After 45 minutes, it cools down, drove home slowly with emergency lights on.
Replace the following: clock spring, all brake pads, rotors, and ABS sensors, both front calipers.
Bought an Innova 5510 scanner, went through steering angle sensor calibration, ABS bleeding after flushing all brake fluid.

Here is the current issue, traction control light on, ABS kicked in on both front wheels intermittently not all the time, Jeep moves very slow when ABS kicked in.
What is the solution to correct this issue.
Again, thank you for any input that helps solve this issue.

 

[DadOSix]

Hi Jeff, have a question for you and other members as well. Any input is appreciated.
Air bag light on intermittently, while waiting for parts to arrive, I drove 2011 Liberty 150 miles one way, during return, right front wheel squealing and transmision temp symbol lit up, pull over emergency pull off, front right wheel is very hot, not touchable. After 45 minutes, it cools down, drove home slowly with emergency lights on.
Replace the following: clock spring, all brake pads, rotors, and ABS sensors, both front calipers.
Bought an Innova 5510 scanner, went through steering angle sensor calibration, ABS bleeding after flushing all brake fluid.

Here is the current issue, traction control light on, ABS kicked in on both front wheels intermittently not all the time, Jeep moves very slow when ABS kicked in.
What is the solution to correct this issue.
Again, thank you for any input that helps solve this issue.

Have you considered the possibility that the right front hub/bearing/tonering was (is) damaged from the stuck caliper event?

Hook up that scanner and get into the wheel speed sensor data - put the right and left front on to view in real time. Drive a bit and see that the right side is throwing intermittent bad data - maybe a gap / damage on the tone ring.

Other than than, i think you have covered it all.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

Have you considered the possibility that the right front hub/bearing/tonering was (is) damaged from the stuck caliper event?

Hook up that scanner and get into the wheel speed sensor data - put the right and left front on to view in real time. Drive a bit and see that the right side is throwing intermittent bad data - maybe a gap / damage on the tone ring.

Other than than, i think you have covered it all.

Thanks DadOsix for your reply.
I put a small camera in ABS mounting hole, the tone ring looks fine, that's what bugging me for the last 4 weeks. Again thank you.

 

[DadOSix]

Thanks DadOsix for your reply.
I put a small camera in ABS mounting hole, the tone ring looks fine, that's what bugging me for the last 4 weeks. Again thank you.

I understand.

You have done a visual inspection with the camera.

Since your issue is intermittent the scan tool real time readings might help you find the cause.

Good luck. This one is tough!

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

H

I understand.

You have done a visual inspection with the camera.

Since your issue is intermittent the scan tool real time readings might help you find the cause.

Good luck. This one is tough!

Hi DadOsix,
I removed and checked all AbS sensors andtone wheels, they are clean without foreign material attached. Went out for a drive with scanner attached. The scanner that I have does not support live ABS data. But there is something that I noticed is that ambient temperature is 80*, coolant is 208* and transmision fluid is way up, highway driving is 215*, and city driving id 235*. Is that normal for transmision fluid that high.
BTW, I did replace transmission lines, to and from, there's a square aluminum block in between, is there an adjustment on that block that needs adjusted, to keep trans fluid flowing more.
Thanks again for your inputs.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

H

Hi DadOsix,
I removed and checked all AbS sensors andtone wheels, they are clean without foreign material attached. Went out for a drive with scanner attached. The scanner that I have does not support live ABS data. But there is something that I noticed is that ambient temperature is 80*, coolant is 208* and transmision fluid is way up, highway driving is 215*, and city driving id 235*. Is that normal for transmision fluid that high.
BTW, I did replace transmission lines, to and from, there's a square aluminum block in between, is there an adjustment on that block that needs adjusted, to keep trans fluid flowing more.
Thanks again for your inputs.

FYI, traction control light is on mostly during slow speed, between 15-30 mph.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

Question about 42RLE transmission cooling bypass valve, is there an adjustment for it or it is adjusted from manufacturer.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

Question about 42RLE transmission cooling bypass valve, is there an adjustment for it or it is adjusted from manufacturer.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

What is normal driving transmission temperature for 2011 Liberty without load.

 

[lfhoward]

I have an auxiliary transmission cooler on the front of my radiator that I added because I tow a lot. I can say that with the cooler, I see 125°F on the interstate highway (145 when towing), 165°F in mixed driving (185 when towing), and sometimes 220°F climbing a mountain on a forest road on a hot day. When towing my camper up that mountain I usually stop and let it cool off before it reaches 240°F, about halfway up. Having the mechanical cooling fan on the front of the water pump helps too, as that was part of the tow package. I added the fan. All the temperatures referenced above come from my Scangauge II.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

I have an auxiliary transmission cooler on the front of my radiator that I added because I tow a lot. I can say that with the cooler, I see 125°F on the interstate highway (145 when towing), 165°F in mixed driving (185 when towing), and sometimes 220°F climbing a mountain on a forest road on a hot day. When towing my camper up that mountain I usually stop and let it cool off before it reaches 240°F, about halfway up. Having the mechanical cooling fan on the front of the water pump helps too, as that was part of the tow package. I added the fan. All the temperatures referenced above come from my Scangauge II.

I apologize for saying your name incorrectly.

My Liberty does have an auxiliary trans cooler out front and in front of it is a small power steering cooler.
When I pulled a low cooling fan relay, electric fan kicked in on high speed, and when the low relay inserted, fan went back down to slow speed.
1.) When do high speed fan kicks in.
2.) Can I add a mechanical fan in front of water pump like you mentioned with yours.
3.) Do transmission oil cooler bypass valve, in between the lines like the picture shown above, have an adjustment to it, or does it come pre adjusted.
4.) Most of the time, when driving on slight left bend road and hold the steering few degrees left, around 25/mph, Traction Control Light still popping up.
Not sure what to do next.

 

[lfhoward]

Since Traction Control is based on differences in wheel speed, I would be trying to read the wheel speed sensor data from all four wheels. Going straight, all four should be the same. Turning left, the right side tires will spin slightly faster. If a wheel speed sensor is reading out of sync with the others, you might be able to pinpoint where the issue is.

None of us are cool enough to own a high powered scan tool unless we work for a dealership, lol. But the JScan app can track wheel speed live. The PID’s to monitor are in the Front Control Module, just search for wheel speed and they should come up. Then select show diagrams and you can see all four wheels’ rpm simultaneously as you drive.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

Since Traction Control is based on differences in wheel speed, I would be trying to read the wheel speed sensor data from all four wheels. Going straight, all four should be the same. Turning left, the right side tires will spin slightly faster. If a wheel speed sensor is reading out of sync with the others, you might be able to pinpoint where the issue is.

None of us are cool enough to own a high powered scan tool unless we work for a dealership, lol. But the JScan app can track wheel speed live. The PID’s to monitor are in the Front Control Module, just search for wheel speed and they should come up. Then select show diagrams and you can see all four wheels’ rpm simultaneously as you drive.

Thanks lfhoward. I will try that.

 

[DadOSix]

Since Traction Control is based on differences in wheel speed, I would be trying to read the wheel speed sensor data from all four wheels. Going straight, all four should be the same. Turning left, the right side tires will spin slightly faster. If a wheel speed sensor is reading out of sync with the others, you might be able to pinpoint where the issue is.

None of us are cool enough to own a high powered scan tool unless we work for a dealership, lol. But the JScan app can track wheel speed live. The PID’s to monitor are in the Front Control Module, just search for wheel speed and they should come up. Then select show diagrams and you can see all four wheels’ rpm simultaneously as you drive.

Thanks for the JScan tip! Did not know that one. Beats dragging the KingBolen out when kj’s are carrying on. Just my opinion, i think OP is going to find the right front is the issue as that is where he had heat issues. I just burnt up my right front caliper and ABS sensor due to an overheated brake. My bet is that there is a hairline crack in the tone ring that opens and worsens performance on that hub when the jeep is driven. Only fix - replace that hub and sensor - that I know of. Now, off to find a JScan app - hope it runs on IOS.!

 

[lfhoward]

Thanks for the JScan tip! Did not know that one. Beats dragging the KingBolen out when kj’s are carrying on. Just my opinion, i think OP is going to find the right front is the issue as that is where he had heat issues. I just burnt up my right front caliper and ABS sensor due to an overheated brake. My bet is that there is a hairline crack in the tone ring that opens and worsens performance on that hub when the jeep is driven. Only fix - replace that hub and sensor - that I know of. Now, off to find a JScan app - hope it runs on IOS.!

It does! You won’t be disappointed. I think it’s great.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

It does! You won’t be disappointed. I think it’s great.

Thanks lfhoward and DadOsix for your inputs.

I ordered a pair of front wheel hubs/bearings, will post result when parts arrive next week.

In the meantime, looking for a transmission cooler bypass delete kit, or just remove the bypass valve assembly and add direct connection to the lines with transmission oil cooler hoses and clamps to see if transmission temperature will drop. If not, the bypass valve will go back in and pursue another option, like lfhoward mentioned, with an additional mechanical clutch fan.