Ebay Intake Question

[WillysOverland]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

(I searched. but couldnt find this intake)

Im wondering if anyone has bought this intake. It retains the 3.5" I.D. tubing that the stock intake has, unlike most aftermarket intakes. It has smooth bends and short travel.

The temperatures at cruising speeds will be the same temperatures as the surrounding ambient air. The only time the engine will be breathing hot/warm air is at idle.

I know its a little wierd looking, but it would pull sufficient air. With a little high temp black paint flat black paint or a powder coat it wouldnt look bad either.

Give me some input. Thanks

 

[Ry' N Jen]

The ebay description is cheesy. Just what is a "High Quality Washable and Re-Usable BLUE Air Filter"? The amount of times the word "Blue" is highlighted it comes across as a Boy racer accessory emphasizing "Look at me parts!
Who manufactures it?
And, "It can increase 7-13 HP and 5-10 ft/lb of Torque"
Will does it or doesn't it?
Also, "100% Brand New in box and ready to ship"
I would hope so!
No thank you, I'll spend more money and purchase a Cold air intake from an actual business with a street address and not some item that more than likely is made in China.

 

[WillysOverland]

The ebay description is cheesy. Just what is a "High Quality Washable and Re-Usable BLUE Air Filter"? The amount of times the word "Blue" is highlighted it comes across as a Boy racer accessory emphasizing "Look at me parts!
Who manufactures it?
And, "It can increase 7-13 HP and 5-10 ft/lb of Torque"
Will does it or doesn't it?
Also, "100% Brand New in box and ready to ship"
I would hope so!
No thank you, I'll spend more money and purchase a Cold air intake from an actual business with a street address and not some item that more than likely is made in China.

This is more of what I'm looking at gaining...2-5 hp/tq Max. .5-2 mpg Max.

If someone has one let me know. You can see that I did'nt reference anything they wrote. The filters could always be replaced if needed, but a K&N filter isnt going to be 10x better than these filters with my experience. I would get the Red kit on ebay over blue though since its closer to the K&N

Also, as for that who manufactures it thing.... When I owned a Ford ZX2 the K&N and AEM intakes were of the lowest performing intakes made for the car. Ebay intakes outperformed them at a fraction of the costs. Its also Dyno Proven. I built my own with 3" tubing though. (I would build one for the Jeep, but its hard to get 3.5" tubing and also get it for a decent price)

I just want some honest input on the geometry of the intake tubing and design. Nothing based off their literature.

 

[tjkj2002]

Save your money,that intake will only suck hot air that is coming off the exhaust manifolds.The OEM intake stuff on a KJ is real good setup,flows much better then you think and ***** in cold air.Just drop in a Amsoil EA filter in the OEM box and drive.

 

[twack]

i have seen that one but the problem is that it soaks up the heat in that position, and im pretty sure it rubs on the heat shielding on the hood. look at my ebay intake thread. my intake is three inches wide. it puts the filter where it can actually work. i wouldnt go for that unless your going for a show look

 

[WillysOverland]

i have seen that one but the problem is that it soaks up the heat in that position, and im pretty sure it rubs on the heat shielding on the hood. look at my ebay intake thread. my intake is three inches wide. it puts the filter where it can actually work. i wouldnt go for that unless your going for a show look

The thing I dont understand is why the aftermarket intakes are 3" instead of the stock 3.5". Thats a downgrade in airflow thru the tubes from stock.

At any constant speed (at least 25mph or greater) the intake temperatures will be at ambient temperatures. The location of the intake will only matter at idle. You may be right about it hitting the hood though.

 

[Powerslave]

See this post dude: http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38449

I got an intake off of Ebay, and you'll see what I ended up doing...

That dual intake LOOKS nice, but, pulling hot air in off the engine is not going to help all that much. It does with throttle response, and all, but the hotter air means a little less gas mixture due to the higher temp reading at the IAT, but still well within specs. It does perform better, even with hotter air, because it is not ALL that much cooler with the stock intake... The stock intake tube is heated by the engine as well, if you wanted specifics, you would need to take actual temp readings to compare the both.

Now, if you WANTED to, you could cut two holes in our hood, and place two small hood-scoops or those smaller vent things, that ARE functional. They work, as they are OPEN, you would need to cut out the holes for the outside air to come in.

You cannot make that a true CAI, there is no where to run tubing, unless you butcher the front behind the grille, install two intake funnels, and run duct to them, and extend the tubes on that intake to the funnels.

I had a Geo Tracker, and I just clamped a K&N on the end of the plenum, and it helped a LOT, hot air or not, it DOES HELP, here is that Tracker PIC

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[twack]

if you look at mine, there is actually a reducer to the throttle body. that means that the throttle body is actually a restriction. In all reality 2.5 would be just fine and flow without restriction. 3.5 is way to big and actually will have trouble fitting on a CAI between the hood padding and the air conditioning line trust me 3 is almost pushing it. The problem with the stock setup is that it has turns and and ribs. The ribs are made to quiet all the intake noise, but this also makes turbulence wich hurts flow. In all reality you want something that is one straight pipe and not a bunch of pipes together because couplers can cause turbulence. That double intake will flow fine but puts the filters in a place to not get much fresh air and suck up the heat. The best way to go is a "CAI" that has a a heat box / heat shield. That way you get decent cool air and you dont have the turbulance the stock piping does.

 

[WillysOverland]

if you look at mine, there is actually a reducer to the throttle body. that means that the throttle body is actually a restriction. In all reality 2.5 would be just fine and flow without restriction. 3.5 is way to big and actually will have trouble fitting on a CAI between the hood padding and the air conditioning line trust me 3 is almost pushing it. The problem with the stock setup is that it has turns and and ribs. The ribs are made to quiet all the intake noise, but this also makes turbulence wich hurts flow. In all reality you want something that is one straight pipe and not a bunch of pipes together because couplers can cause turbulence. That double intake will flow fine but puts the filters in a place to not get much fresh air and suck up the heat. The best way to go is a "CAI" that has a a heat box / heat shield. That way you get decent cool air and you dont have the turbulance the stock piping does.

The stock intake tubing tapers from 3.5" at the box to 3.25" at the throttle body and the throttle body opens at 2.625".

The throttle body is always going to be the bottle neck and restrict, but a nice porting of it would help maintain an equal balance of adding another quarter inch in the intake tubing. A boring of the throttle body would be best, but its designed different than most.

I made a 3" intake for my Ford ZX2 when I owned it and the stock tubing is only about 2.25". It increased power and mpg efficiency noticeably well. My point is it was a 3" on a 2.0L 4 cylinder. I think that the 3.7L V6 could benefit from a quarter inch increase on the throttle body side. Not a decrease to 3" as almost all aftermarket intakes are made.

 

[WillysOverland]

See this post dude: http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38449

I got an intake off of Ebay, and you'll see what I ended up doing...

That dual intake LOOKS nice, but, pulling hot air in off the engine is not going to help all that much. It does with throttle response, and all, but the hotter air means a little less gas mixture due to the higher temp reading at the IAT, but still well within specs. It does perform better, even with hotter air, because it is not ALL that much cooler with the stock intake... The stock intake tube is heated by the engine as well, if you wanted specifics, you would need to take actual temp readings to compare the both.

At cruising speeds the temperature in the engine bay isn't going to be much higher than the ambient air. If a couple slots were cut into the plastic/rubber that is behind the grill than it would help even more, especially if they were cut on the same plane as the filters on the intake. Or if they were cut and had a small duct to flow the air up as you said. But you could make it look clean without butchering it.

 

[tjkj2002]

At cruising speeds the temperature in the engine bay isn't going to be much higher than the ambient air. If a couple slots were cut into the plastic/rubber that is behind the grill than it would help even more, especially if they were cut on the same plane as the filters on the intake. Or if they were cut and had a small duct to flow the air up as you said. But you could make it look clean without butchering it.

Your underhood temps will not be anywhere close to ambient air temps,even at 100mph.Those exhaust manifolds keep the engine bay pretty toasty,more so if you have full skids on your KJ.

 

[WillysOverland]

Your underhood temps will not be anywhere close to ambient air temps,even at 100mph.Those exhaust manifolds keep the engine bay pretty toasty,more so if you have full skids on your KJ.

Have you verified that with a scan gauge or something similar?

 

[tjkj2002]

Have you verified that with a scan gauge or something similar?

Scan gauge will not tell you the underhood temps,you must put a thermometer under there for that.

Just remember at speed all that hot air from the radiator will be passing right over those fleabay filters since they are located in a very bad place,if you run piping down to where the OEM airbox was the temps will be much lower since it will be out of the line of hot radiator airflow and not sitting on 1200+ degree manifolds.

Now also remember that you are taking your basis off a FWD car with a transverse engine which make the KJ and whole different ball of wax when it comes to filter placememt,it's like comparing apples to oranges.Basically what worked in your Focus will not work in the KJ.Besides the PCM will learn the new setup after a few days and cancel it out anyways so you will not see any HP increase at all.

 

[twack]

any aftermarket intake that is 2.75 or bigger will be an upgrade. the ribs of the stocker causes turbulance which hurts flow.

 

[tjkj2002]

any aftermarket intake that is 2.75 or bigger will be an upgrade. the ribs of the stocker causes turbulance which hurts flow.

Some properly placed turbulence is a good thing if done right.

 

[WillysOverland]

Scan gauge will not tell you the underhood temps,you must put a thermometer under there for that.

Just remember at speed all that hot air from the radiator will be passing right over those fleabay filters since they are located in a very bad place,if you run piping down to where the OEM airbox was the temps will be much lower since it will be out of the line of hot radiator airflow and not sitting on 1200+ degree manifolds.

Now also remember that you are taking your basis off a FWD car with a transverse engine which make the KJ and whole different ball of wax when it comes to filter placememt,it's like comparing apples to oranges.Basically what worked in your Focus will not work in the KJ.Besides the PCM will learn the new setup after a few days and cancel it out anyways so you will not see any HP increase at all.

A scan gauge reads from the intake temperature sensor, so you would get an idea of how your temperature levels are in the bay. The ZX2 I had (Escort not focus ) had a cold air intake stock just like the Liberty. It was more beneficial to run the setup I did than to leave it stock. Of course it wasnt over the engine like this one, but it wasnt a cold air intake anymore.

Here is my the ZX2's intake...

You must be registered for see images attach

any aftermarket intake that is 2.75 or bigger will be an upgrade. the ribs of the stocker causes turbulance which hurts flow.

I agree, and thats why I dont like Rusty's intake adapter, or whatever it is. I have a piece of 3" tubing left over from the ZX2 intake so I thru it in there and it felt like I lost some power to be honest. But I also blame that on a small filter that was also dirty.

 

[tjkj2002]

A scan gauge reads from the intake temperature sensor, so you would get an idea of how your temperature levels are in the bay. The ZX2 I had (Escort not focus ) had a cold air intake stock just like the Liberty. It was more beneficial to run the setup I did than to leave it stock. Of course it wasnt over the engine like this one, but it wasnt a cold air intake anymore.

Here is my the ZX2's intake...

You must be registered for see images attach

I agree, and thats why I dont like Rusty's intake adapter, or whatever it is. I have a piece of 3" tubing left over from the ZX2 intake so I thru it in there and it felt like I lost some power to be honest. But I also blame that on a small filter that was also dirty.

Focus escort,basically the same crap anyway.


Notice where the air filter is in your pic? It is not sitting on top of the exhaust manifold and it is not in the air flow path of the radiator which equal less heat.

Oh and the IAT sensor does not come close to underhood temps,it is reading what the rushing air in the intake is sitting at,there can be up to over a 100 degree difference between what the IAT sensor is reading and the actual underhood temps is.

 

[WillysOverland]

Focus escort,basically the same crap anyway.


Notice where the air filter is in your pic? It is not sitting on top of the exhaust manifold and it is not in the air flow path of the radiator which equal less heat.

Oh and the IAT sensor does not come close to underhood temps,it is reading what the rushing air in the intake is sitting at,there can be up to over a 100 degree difference between what the IAT sensor is reading and the actual underhood temps is.

I know its not in the line of heat but its not a cold air intake. That crap was also the most reliable car Ive owned too .

I'm still not convinced that I will be sucking in excess heat. The flow of air thru the front and under would cool the engine bay air enough to make the exhaust manifold heat negligible.

 

[Luke]

I can't give you any actual data regarding temps ... but ... do you park it in a garage? I would come home,during this past winter, park the beast (keep in mind it is about -20 outside) and within 15 minutes my entire garage was sitting at 70 degrees! There is no way that I want that engine bay supplying my cold air.

I don't know how long you have had your Lib but it is by far the hottest running vehicle I have ever owned.

All that having been said you will find a lot of members have tried a lot of different approaches to this here and on LOST. A wealth of info is available on top of TJ's stern yet proven info!

Cheers,
Luke

 

[twack]

man i need a temp sensor and a flow bench, just to put this to rest and have proven results