Tried to post this earlier but I keep getting a security error...
I have fought the clutch hydraulics to replace the SC twice now, in 2.5 years. I have never had to replace a clutch hydraulic component so quickly. I bought the lifetime warranty parts from Oreilly (all I could find in Charleston with LLT warranty), but I got to doing some research...
(2.5 years between failures is a non-starter. It's got to go...)
First of all, I never have espoused the idea of a system that is not serviceable. The idea they sell us a sealed hydraulic system with the MC lid actually glued on is idiotic.
Add to that, the idiotic location of the MC (with that clunky wiring harness raceway running over it)... Well, I'm a hacker of many sorts, so it wasn't gong to fly...
First, remove and throw away the harness raceway. Tape up the harness and add some chafe protection. Then use Adel clamps (check the *** at the end if you don't know what that is) to keep it from flopping about while still being serviceable.
I found Dorman has an available MC and SC as separate components (and thus not a pre-filled assembly... And surely the MC lid is not glued on). I luckily found the last ones on RA (they are still available, I just found a warehouse clearance deal) so I grabbed both units for less than a hundred bucks. The SC is aluminum (not plastic - already a HUGE improvement to my mind. Plastics are great things, but I just don't feel like they are to be trusted as pressure vessels without certain engineering concessions made, which don't lend to a less expensive product (hello, Oceangate?)... So that's in hand now.... Waiting for the MC to arrive, hopefully tomorrow.
First idea. Get the parts, and tap the bores where the stock fitting blocks are retaining-pinned in. Not a great idea, for multiple reasons - will the bore be the proper size for a tap? To say nothing of the ill-advised nature of such a plan on an assembled unit (frag from tapping). Nope.
So I got to talking with a friend about it, and had the idea that I could spin up an adapter for a - 4JIC to the retaining pin fitting. I originally thought to TIG a panel mount side of a - 4 to one of the factory fittings, but then thought this must have already been done. Turns out, Russell products (may be) to the rescue.
Apparently it's an issue in MT-equipped LS swaps, that the available stock-replacement parts don't always suit the place where someone is stuffing an LS motor and its manual transmission. A fix for that is often to use a 1st-gen S10 MC, but they still have to adapt it to the SC at the ******, which usually has the same sort of (piss-poor design) plunger and retaining pin affair. So Russell has this: item 640281.
It is designed for GM and Chrysler bores, but is said to be somewhat loose (while still sealing properly). I ordered a pair off Amazon, for $28. They'll be here Thursday, just about the time the Dorman MC arrives. Assuming they fit, and assuming Dorman isn't selling an MC as a standalone part with no ability to fill it (ie, with the lid epoxied on - why on earth would they? But then, why on earth would anyone want a prefilled and unserviceable unit?), I should have both items in hand Thursday night.
True, I initially said I'd use a - 4, and this is only a - 3, but it should be plenty of volume for the job.
Unfortunately, I didn't take time to measure the length of the line needed, when I did the warranty swap out. But I am going to use field-service fittings (ie, assemble with two wrenches, no crimping), so it will be easy to assemble in-situ, under the car. 6' of hose will probably do the job twice, with leftover.
I'm still not sure what the yellow aluminum box is on the hose of the prefilled setups. One of the senior mechanics said it's a check valve. That can't be possible - it would never let off the clutch in such a situation. I doubt it's necessary, whatever it is. Will investigate when I remove this again.
This will make replacement of the clutch hydraulics MUCH easier. In fact, once the new line is in place, there will be no need to move the power brake booster, and one should be able to service the system regularly, while replacing the most likely point of failure (SC, in my experience with this and other cars) in mere minutes on the side of the road with basic hand tools.
Parts needed (for an 05 Liberty Renegade with 3.7l V6 and 6-speed manual) - slush box owners will have their own raft of problems and this isn't for them:
Hydraulic cylinders:
-Dorman Master Cylinder - PN CM640156 $83
-Dorman Slave Cylinder - PN 650157 $52
(Sachs SH6469 for $43 should also be a good choice, but I can't speak for it in-hand. Stay away from plastic slave cylinders if at all possible)
Retaining-pin block to -3JICM adapter:
-Russell 640281 (possible, for - 3JICM) $28
-Earls LS641001ERL (possible, for -4JICM) $32
PLEASE NOTE: This is a hack/work-in-progress. I have not yet received all of the parts (such as the fittings, and the MC, noted above) and can not yet guarantee that it will work as presented above. I should receive them both by Thursday night (48 hours from the time I am posting this), and will be able to suss that out pretty shortly thereafter. I do see one possible problem, though:
Some quick perusing of my favorite hydraulics supplier shows me that -3JICF, let alone swivel, Field-Service fittings may not be a thing. Smallest I can find are - 4, which of course was my original plan (I may also be able to find an adapter fitting for the retaining-pin fitting with a -4JICM on it, which would be perfectly suited and solve this problem)
One could also elect to just use a swaged fitting. Some brief googling, if we assume a 30" length, shows me they can be had with the stainless-steel over braid (good for abrasion resistance and last longer with swaged fittings) for less than $30. So, you lose the ability to keep a hunk of hose in your trail kit and build a new hose on the side of the road with two wrenches (which is honestly overkill, as this is already such a huge upgrade over the factory plastic nylon line). If you're really concerned, buy two and keep the second where you'd have kept the 6' of unassembled hose previously.
No info yet on the length of the hose, as I did not think to measure it when I had this all apart last weekend. Should have it shortly.
If you do elect to do this, be aware one way or another, you Must have a swivel on at least one end of the hose, or you'll never be able to keep it tight. I prefer to use all swivel female fittings whenever possible, as it makes everything MUCH easier to deal with, particularly when you're in tight places.
***If you are still reading this you're probably wondering what the hell an Adel clamp is...
You have likely seen them before, they are stainless-steel loops with polyurethane cushioning inside them, which have one hole for a bolt or stud to go through them. They can be had many places including Harbor Freight and most home stores. They are often called "cushion clamps" and look like this:
(can't post link... Will try again later)
I'm not sure what size are needed to hold the wiring harness in vicinity of the raceway which we chucked (I assume 1"), but that gets you an idea what I'm talking about.
