David13
Full Access Member
Does anyone have the correct routing diagram?
I keep getting one that shows a different routing than I have.
Thanks
dc
I keep getting one that shows a different routing than I have.
Thanks
dc
2008 Liberty 3.7 4x4 Ltd Belt Routing diagram
- Thread starter David13
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For the 08 Liberty from the Mopar eStore website. This routing is correct as I have an 08.
Once I had a shop route the belt wrong. They had it across the top (7 to 4 on the diagram) and then back to center. That routing caused slippage at my AC compressor and the belt squealed when I turned on the AC.
David13
Full Access Member
Thanks Howard.
That's the diagram I have found all over the internet.
But it's not what I have.
I have thought that it may be put on wrong. I recently put a new belt on my Honda Civic and realized that they can be put on wrong.
However, I don't get any squeal with the a/c on.
Thanks
dc
That's the diagram I have found all over the internet.
But it's not what I have.
I have thought that it may be put on wrong. I recently put a new belt on my Honda Civic and realized that they can be put on wrong.
However, I don't get any squeal with the a/c on.
Thanks
dc
David13
Full Access Member
I am trying to figure out why they may put it on wrong. Some places say it may make one component to another turn the wrong way, but I don't think that is possible. And it wouldn't be the intended result they would have in putting it on wrong.
They may be trying to put less tension on the belt that way. Because something was squeaking. Or they just didn't know the right way.
What I'm trying to decide now is, when I'm draining and refilling and installing the new belt, should I also replace the water pump? And, if so, with which one? The Mopar is $160 which is too much and probably not that much better that the cheap replacement ones. But. Which cheap replacement one? Auto Zone, O'Reilly, NAPA, TRQ from AI Auto? $60 to $80 for those, all made in China, all with metal impellers rather than plastic on the Mopar.
Any ideas?
dc
They may be trying to put less tension on the belt that way. Because something was squeaking. Or they just didn't know the right way.
What I'm trying to decide now is, when I'm draining and refilling and installing the new belt, should I also replace the water pump? And, if so, with which one? The Mopar is $160 which is too much and probably not that much better that the cheap replacement ones. But. Which cheap replacement one? Auto Zone, O'Reilly, NAPA, TRQ from AI Auto? $60 to $80 for those, all made in China, all with metal impellers rather than plastic on the Mopar.
Any ideas?
dc
I just bought a Mopar water pump to replace mine, but have not installed it yet. Even with a plastic impeller, it looks like a solid unit. Rock Auto had the Mopar one for less than what you quoted above.
David13
Full Access Member
Thanks Howard
I just went to NAPA to look at them, as they have two. The counter guy said the old one must be taken out as Jeep put two in in 2008. One with a plastic impeller and one with a metal impeller, and the only way to know which one I had was to take the old one out.
That may be true but I didn't believe it.
I see Rock Auto has prices from 29 to 64$ and a Mopar at 149, 10 less than Mopar Wholesale.
Howard, do I need or want a metal impeller or a plastic impeller? Does it matter? Do I have to have whatever I have in there?
Thanks
dc
I just went to NAPA to look at them, as they have two. The counter guy said the old one must be taken out as Jeep put two in in 2008. One with a plastic impeller and one with a metal impeller, and the only way to know which one I had was to take the old one out.
That may be true but I didn't believe it.
I see Rock Auto has prices from 29 to 64$ and a Mopar at 149, 10 less than Mopar Wholesale.
Howard, do I need or want a metal impeller or a plastic impeller? Does it matter? Do I have to have whatever I have in there?
Thanks
dc
I don’t know if I am the best person to answer the metal vs plastic question, but here are some thoughts for what it’s worth:
- If the wrong coolant is used (non-HOAT), then it could react with and eat away at the metal impeller. It will also form globs that block your cooling passages and heater core. You will probably never do this, and if a shop does you’ll catch the green color and flush it out before it becomes a problem.
- My KK has had 3 water pumps so far and I think this will be #4. I don’t think the failure mode ever had to do with the impeller. Either coolant started seeping from the weep hole causing slow coolant loss, or the bearings in the pulley went bad so it wobbled and made noise.
Personally I don’t think metal vs plastic matters for the impeller, especially if Mopar used plastic. The pump will fail for other reasons before the impeller dies. The three water pumps have lasted about 65-85K miles each on my KK thus far.
- If the wrong coolant is used (non-HOAT), then it could react with and eat away at the metal impeller. It will also form globs that block your cooling passages and heater core. You will probably never do this, and if a shop does you’ll catch the green color and flush it out before it becomes a problem.
- My KK has had 3 water pumps so far and I think this will be #4. I don’t think the failure mode ever had to do with the impeller. Either coolant started seeping from the weep hole causing slow coolant loss, or the bearings in the pulley went bad so it wobbled and made noise.
Personally I don’t think metal vs plastic matters for the impeller, especially if Mopar used plastic. The pump will fail for other reasons before the impeller dies. The three water pumps have lasted about 65-85K miles each on my KK thus far.
David13
Full Access Member
Thanks Howard
It doesn't make any sense to me that Jeep/Chrysler would use some plastic and some metal impellers in 2008.
But if the wrong coolant would eat at the metal (aluminum) impeller why would it not also eat at the aluminum in the head or other components. Some of the housings on the water pumps are also aluminum.
I also think it probably doesn't matter.
I don't know if the pump has ever been changed. I don't know if it's original or not. I think more important is the bearing.
Maybe I should take it out and see what it looks like. It still works good, or seems to. But it does seem to run hot, near the half way mark, which from the forum seems to be where they all run.
If I can tell that it is an oem pump, from 2008 and 150 k miles ago, that may tell me that the best one to get is the Mopar, even with the price so much more.
I do think the bigger issue is, does the impeller come loose and thus not circulate water. Maybe if that was the case the gauge would go above the half way mark.
Thanks again.
dc
It doesn't make any sense to me that Jeep/Chrysler would use some plastic and some metal impellers in 2008.
But if the wrong coolant would eat at the metal (aluminum) impeller why would it not also eat at the aluminum in the head or other components. Some of the housings on the water pumps are also aluminum.
I also think it probably doesn't matter.
I don't know if the pump has ever been changed. I don't know if it's original or not. I think more important is the bearing.
Maybe I should take it out and see what it looks like. It still works good, or seems to. But it does seem to run hot, near the half way mark, which from the forum seems to be where they all run.
If I can tell that it is an oem pump, from 2008 and 150 k miles ago, that may tell me that the best one to get is the Mopar, even with the price so much more.
I do think the bigger issue is, does the impeller come loose and thus not circulate water. Maybe if that was the case the gauge would go above the half way mark.
Thanks again.
dc
