2004 libby 3.7

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ftaa

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so i got this libby 120000 mile on it ... light rough idle... took it on a 400 mile treck i noticed some irratic ****** behavior Traveling down the highway at a light grade i stepped on the gas to get around a truck .. ****** dropped form 4th to apparently 2nd illuminating the MIL drove home 400 mile no issue got to street speed and the ****** went into limp mode. came home reset the MIL drove fine.... i took it out the next day to try and re-create the issue in which i did... now when i have the o/d off no problem at all nice shift etc.. turn the od on and 4th drop into 2nd and stay in limp after it heats up everytime ... now i am wondering if this could be the tps or a ****** sensor...fluid i clean and appropriate level thoughts?
 

ftaa

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additionaly i have put nearly 4000 mile on it since this happened jut turning the od off. if the ****** was bad i am assuming it would have blown up by now. if the cutch plate were gone or what have you
 

ftaa

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Does the transmission fluid smell burnt, at all?

Could be a lot of things tossing you into Limp mode. Have you gotten the codes read, yet? If not, try following this procedure (link) and post back the numbers.

it the appropriate pinkish colour and smells like "celery"
correct evel alwso
i did get it read wa told a sensor but i ony ever aw the p0700 code. They never gave ME the code jut wiped it and aid drive it.
 

nullptr

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it the appropriate pinkish colour and smells like "celery"
correct evel alwso
i did get it read wa told a sensor but i ony ever aw the p0700 code. They never gave ME the code jut wiped it and aid drive it.

p0700 (link)

Well, that's a generic error... :shrug:

I guess if it comes back, pull the codes using the method I linked and see if there are any additional codes.
 

ftaa

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p0700 (link)

Well, that's a generic error... :shrug:

I guess if it comes back, pull the codes using the method I linked and see if there are any additional codes.

I did recreate the mil did the key trick only p0700 come.... i now it i generic. im fairy mechanical inclined and read up on thi before asking
 

ftaa

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Am i correct in assuming if there was metal in the ****** from a cutch pac or whatever iot should have died by now?after 4000 miles i can make the truc do it after heating up EVERY time. If it was a ****** sensor would it be input or output?
 

nullptr

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Am i correct in assuming if there was metal in the ****** from a cutch pac or whatever iot should have died by now?after 4000 miles i can make the truc do it after heating up EVERY time. If it was a ****** sensor would it be input or output?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's only once it heats up and OverDrive is enabled, right? It doesn't do it if the OverDrive is turned off?

Yeah, I'd think if there was a lot of metal in there, you'd notice it by now. At the very least the fluid would start to smell funky as things burned up, or turn dark as things got torn up. Still, a fluid flush couldn't hurt, I suppose. Just had it done on mine. The added benefit of dropping the pan would let you see if there was a lot of metal shavings in the pan, and at 120k you probably need a filter anyway.

The way the error page was written, it almost sounds like it's either a sensor or TCM problem. Sounds like you really need to plug in a scanner to try and communicate with the TCM to ask it what the problem is, but I'm sure that's going to cost money. You could try taking it to a dealership to see if they can diagnosis it. :shrug:
 

ftaa

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Thank ya only when o/d and only hot guess i gotta get er read thank you
 

LibertyTC

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Did you use new ATF+ 4 and new filter in the transmission? If not now is the time and can view any particulate matter in pan/on magnet.
To check level you must have driven 20 min + then on level ground with handbrake on or use wheel blocks, transmission now in neutral while running, check the dipstick level.
State of tune has importance as well. Any full tune up w/spark plugs done recently? Throttle body clean, IAC clean?
Also the KJ battery can offer up some strange things if it is weak or ALt output voltage is not right. Have a load test done to the battery & Alt output checked.
You could try to add a can of Trans Tune (seafoam) in the trans fluid, that may help clean the stuck solenoid or valves, and may help it along..
 
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ftaa

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*I* havnt changed the fluid ... but it was clearly changed before i boughtit ... once again this happened about a week after i ought it .. and NO other problems since.. other then when i crank on it to drop a gear to pass it will drop directly into 2nd and rev around 4k at 30-40ish mph now when it doesnt kick into second and iluminate the MIL it will go back from snd to 4th as if nothing happened. and continue to shift correctly up and down ... just when i step on it in od she does this odness.. other question.. will that code be stored inthe tcm even tho i cleared it y pulling the battery cable? or should i make it come on again before iget it looked at?
 

ftaa

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i have been thinking aout plugs and coils because of the ever so slight rough idle... trying to wait till the weather is a little warmer before i start cleaning the iac and tb and change plugs... for nowi will take the 2mpg gass defeciency and drive it with no od...
 

nullptr

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I'd say make the MIL come on before you get it read, just to be sure it's in there.

As for the rough idle, plugs are a good idea. You probably don't need coils as you aren't getting a misfire code. I'd also run a can of Seafoam through the gas tank when you fill up next time, it worked pretty good on mine.
 

ftaa

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an additional side not... the truck was in a small front end collision about 3 years ago and sat till december this year. the more i drive it now too, it seems to be getting better. i can stil make the MIL come on but it is harder to do .... i just keep reseting the mil via battery disconnect... could it just be a learn issue in the electronics from sitting so long?
 

tommudd

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Throw a set of plugs in it, 20 minute job and if its been sitting that long more than likely needs them
 
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