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Update after a couple of weeks..... Since the draw was now gone, and I have to deliver the jeep back to my daughter, I didn't have the luxury of "wait and see" so I took the shotgun approach and replaced the things that had shown unexpected or unreliable results. Looking at the schematic for...

Update, and next steps. It had been either dropping to 98 mv or dropping to 8mv with the draw eliminated. After disconnecting the TCS pack and the crankshaft sensor, the draw was still there. I noticed that the cooling fan was making an audible sound (very slight thump) when battery power was...

With just the 12v feed on pin 56 connected to the TCM there's no draw so that at least eliminates an internal short.I 've disconnected all the sensors an relays except two - the solenoid pack and cranks position sensor with no result, I'll tackle those tomorrow.

My thought was this: If it's drawing then either something in the TCM is not properly sleeping or a connected component which should drop to normally open is hanging or shorted? Thanks again, I'll see what kind of testing I can get done today and post updates.

BillWill: Thanks so much! I was looking at the same thing - the wiring to the pressure sense switch appears to be a straight run. When I probe all the pins on the TCM there is .5V draw with key off and removed, doors locked etc. I see the 12v to the TCM naturally since it's fused from the...

I bought a nice 2002 Liberty Limited for my daughter and have done a number of repairs to bring it up to spec - motor and transmission mounts, upper control arms, coolant flush, differential and transfer case fluid change, water pump, Idle and tensioner pulleys,etc. and for my final bit of...

I've been chasing an intermittent problem with the battery being drained on my daughter's 02 Liberty Limited. Yesterday, the rear hatch glass was open and the rear latch kept cycling with the car off and the key out of the ignition. Now I'm not sure if the battery was drained by something else...

Can you provide some detail of the ball joint replacement? Were the upper control arms replaced, did you do the work?

By the way, I was chasing a fairly heavy vibration at idle and lower RPMs. Replaced the harmonic balancer and all three mounts. The vibration is now 95% better. As a note,with the new mounts the engine sits about 1" higher than before - double the clearance between the oil pan and crossmember

Thanks to all the comments and insights I had a good start, this is what worked best for me: You'll need to gain enough space to access bolts and harnesses, and for the mounts to come out. To do this, lower the differential: Remove the right front wheel. Remove the right side lower control arm...