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+1 on generic wheel silver, also called argent. I run two sets of wheels. The steels are semi-gloss black. The alum ones I went with dark graphite metallic.

You have to make a choice on ordering if you want the KJ or KK arms. I ordered the KJ specific arms. I dont recall if there was a left and right.

I have the Rocky Road UCAs. Them and the balljoints are going on 11 years now. Needed them at 2" lift and currently at 3". No issues.

Thats a bummer. I had hoped the hi-pinion could have been used to reduce the half shaft angles. That would take some serious cradle mods I guess. I recall JBA doing the steel front diff, and settling on the low pinion because of hi-pinion fitment issues. I briefly looked at using the 8.25"...

Dana 30 Tru-Trac for 3.73+ https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.912A585.html

Basic Dana 30 traction aids fit. I ran a powertrax no-slip for a while. It was pretty amazing, but did not play nice with my np242 swap, so out it came. Now i have a Tru-Trac to go in next time the front diff comes out for overhaul.

Thats basically a knockoff of the teraflex kit. Steel rear spacers there instead of plastic. No bumpstops though. I had to get aftermarket upper arms after the teraflex kit. Could not align with stock arms. Edit: KK strut forks are good for a little lift too.

I know the combustion chambers, and cam profiles are different between those years. I dont know if the 2011 PCM cares or not.

I've done pinion bearings twice now in the KJ. Once with 3.54 and once with 3.73. First time it sounded like a howl. 2nd time was a weird swishy noise (thought it was the tcase.) Seems to be a common thing. The dodge 8.25" was used in half-ton pickups and cars with small V8's so it should be up...

Actually, nevermind.... the diff and engine both are bolted to the cradle :rolleyes:

You're in a prime spot to drop/shim the cradle down some. Even just a little could help. I've gone to 3/4".

Search at www.car-part.com too.

Is yours disc or drum brakes? I dont know if the axle housing is the same. Have also heard of a Dana 35 being used in '02, so skip that one. The plain open diff can accept a Lockright or similar, if you need/want more aggressive traction than a trac-lok.

I dont know if I've even put a pint in the whole 12 years owning it. The hoses get visibly wet. P/S oil spray in the passenger wheel well a few different times. Doesnt seem to leak right now.

I have found the p/s system fairly rugged despite some leaks. Keep the fluid topped up. The rack has leaked, and then stopped. Hose has leaked, replaced, leaks again. Have had used replacement parts on standy for about 5 years and not needed them.

Most legs have different ratios for V8, V6, and 4cyl. Not usually enough range in prop pitch to compensate. Check it out before you commit. I have a broken 305 in my fishing boat too. Going 327 or bigger. I don't have the patience for a slow boat! :cool:

I dont know what you have, but mine is an aluminum D44 from a WJ.

I have one of those WJ 44's.... not the same. There's the whole axle bearing retaining business. Spendier brake parts for sure.

I'm not sure which of those adapter kits works with the 3.7L trans. These are a dodge pattern engine like the 318/360 unlike the 4.0L jeep.

Yes, stock new ones. Cut the top bit of pigtail off to fit. Gave about 3" initially and sagged to 2", then i added the durango load assist shocks.