I just spent the money and got new bolts. They aren’t cheap. Total at the stealership with nuts and an additional 2 small bolts came to $40 or so. But now I’ll just cut both of them off since they are pretty frozen and all crusty. It’ll make the job easier in the end. I hope.
On the passenger side does the exhaust need to be removed or is there a trick to removing the front mounting bolt? The bolt head faces in towards the exhaust and I don’t see how it will come out with the muffler there. It’s all stock. Any ideas?
Don’t forget to compress the driveshaft in so it clears in the front. Otherwise what’s been said already. They can be a bit of a pain but they do come out without removing anything.
They only replace once though right. My recall was done and I’m in the rust belt. I needed another set. My first set was moog that didn’t fit. They thought it was a bushing error and sent me a new set. The metal sleeve in the bushing was too long. The second set fit fine.
Wow! A full engine huh? I thought at worst would be the heads. It has 198k on it with no rust. He wants $2k but I wasn’t going to go over $1500. I don’t mind fixing small stuff but am not about to change out a motor.
My ‘02’s radiator is leaking from the top front of the driver’s side so I guess it’s time for a new one as I asdume the plastic ones are repairable. So how bad of a job is it to replace one (trying to figure out how much time to set aside)? Any helpful tips? I’m not doing it immediately but...
It has some (I assume) lifter tick though. It’s only at low rpm’s. Seller claims he had the oil changed then it started to do it. Price is pretty low. It’s a 3.7 Auto 4x4
Any opinions? Thoughts on what the tick may be? I’ve got an ‘02 but it’s never had a tick.
I’m sorry I didn’t post my fix that has so far worked. I did connect into the ground wires for the radio and the fan since the ground is ultimately shared. I then left the original ground wires all attached and just spliced a separate ground wire in. I took the separate “new” ground wire and...
Wouldn’t a stuck t-case issue just cause more binding then locking up? Op refers to it as locking up completely then the engine revs with no movement. Sounds like a more serious issue.
“No bus” came back
I’ll try another hard reset but it happened while my daughter was driving and she lost all gauges. The battery tested good, the terminals and cable ends are clean, all fuses and relays seem ok. It took care of it for a month or so but now what?
If I use the black ground wire from the radio and black ground wire from the blower switch and splice those together with a ground wire running to the dash or body, would that work to make a good solid ground for both?
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