Yeah, but good luck getting the needles back in the right position. I took apart my stock cluster to look for any shorts or burns in the board when trying to find the cause of the abs light being on in a non-abs rig, and the needle's pins move causing everything to be off when you put them back...
Yes, the mileage is stored in the cluster so unless you don't mind whatever mileage the donor has than you need to reflash. Mine shows 69k miles, wasn't really worried about changing it lol.
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Finally got the new gage cluster in and got rid of the abs, vss, and cluster faults. So happy to not have that abs light staring me in the face. Didn't like the black trim gauges as much as I thought I would, so I swapped over the stock limited trim over
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Got my replacement cluster, hopefully this gets the f'n abs light to go off. My rig doesn't have abs, so it's had me pretty stumped.
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Got my new cluster in yesterday, set me back a whopping $28. I hope to install it this afternoon, depends on how long it takes me to finish a heater core in an 06 ram(not fun btw)
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It doesn't have ABS, so there is no module to tell the cluster to illuminate or not illuminate the light. Makes me think something in my cluster is jacked and keeping the light on. I guess I'll replace it and see what happens, I like the cluster gauges with the black trim ring better anyways, so...
They do awesome in the snow BTW, when I first got them I had to take a trip to NC and they had around 14" of snow. I'm moving up to a 265 soon and going with something a little more aggressive, but still a great tire with good wear life
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Yes, but it doesn't really go into much detail other than the ABS module sends a signal to the cluster to illuminate the indicator. I can get a used cluster through work for about 40 bucks so I may try it. This damn abs light is driving me crazy!
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I like them, worlds better than my wild country xtx, and they have the bead protector. Off road they surprised the hell out of me, air them down to around 20psi and they grip like a mofo. If you're thinking about them, I'd definitely say go for it.
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Running 32psi in my 245/75-16 at/3's on Teflon coated moabs. Going to be stepping up to 265's here soon, I feel that my wheels are too wide for a 245/75 as I've had some weird tire wear on both my old wild country xtx and Cooper at/3's. Going with a more aggressive at or mud tire this time...
I'm hoping some of the more knowledgeable members here can help me out. Long story short I had an issue over the summer with a 190mA parasitic draw, which left me with an ABS light on the dash. The odd part is my 03 limited doesn't have ABS. I figured out the issue causing the draw but never...
Im running a Mechman 270a alternator with the pcm charging tables changed to maintain a constant 14.4v. I'm running 6-8k watts total on a pair of XS d3400 agm and never drop below 13.7v at idle
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Took her out on the interstate to do a little "real world" tuning, came across this guy. Couldn't help but wonder if that s**t's even legal.
Also gave it a bath for the first time in months. Now if I could figure out why this thing keeps eating cam sensors I'll be good.
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Luckily, or maybe unluckily, I had to take the clockspring in and out in my TJ about a dozen times to dry it out. In the summer we get these pop up thunderstorms the come out of nowhere, seemed like they only popped up when I had the top off my Jeep lol.
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Rather than risk screwing up the clock spring I'd grab the pinion with some channel locks and "straighten" the wheels out. The bolt goes on the same side as the notch, sometimes you have to wiggle the intermediate steering shift end onto the rack's pinion shaft. You could take a risk and turn...
Yes and no. For example if the left rear sits higher, the right front will sit lower. A worn Y-link allows the axle to move) shift side to side laterally, which arch the coils (causing more weight on one side and/or weird suspension loading). Combine that with old worn out springs/shocks and...
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