Think they are $108 now in the US. But I can attest that the seals I’ve got from that 4x4 site leaked day 3. Too lazy to pull it all apart again.
not sure what the “best brand” is or maybe a seal that wasn’t sitting on a shelf for 13 years lol
I’ve been having issues finding the correct pressure for my tires load range E 10ply ... I’ve heard someone recommending I run 45...
Ended up trying the chalk test described here. Still not sure
From the first picture the mounting surface of the exhaust manifold is the highest point in the picture. The second picture looks like it’s not lined up correctly with the head
Seriously. Is the reason I’m always see “***” only on mobile platform or a setting i can toggle off ? Starting to annoy me Thanks // sorry for the hijack
Please remove the annoying filter as seen in this thread and many others
https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/how-to-for-changing-rear-u-joint.56124/
It’s ***** and *** with a little bit of ****. I can’t make out some
Of the **** words. Thanks !!!
That’s interesting... the ball joint sits in the knuckle and attaches to the lower arm. How that nut ripped down the threads on the ball joint stud and took out the cotter pin is beyond me.
Moog is hit or miss now a days. Endlinks by moog are garbage. But the ball joints have been decent...
Mine did that when it had a misfire and continued idling of engine with misfire caused the passenger side catalytic converter to glow red hot.
I can’t say for sure if the problem IS the converter being plugged beforehand or if it’s now damaged.
If you follow that does it go to a hard plastic line ? If so that might be the EVAP tie in. The EVAP is by the battery.
basically work backwards from the EVAP solenoid by battery you should find the missing hose somewhere unless someone took it off and it didn’t fall off
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