But with a farm jack you need lifting points that a lot of us don't have. At a minimum you need both front and rear trailer hitches with something extending out far enough that the farm jack can get under. If you have front and rear ARB (or similar) bumpers I'd agree that a farm jack is probably...
IMHO using the rear diff as a lifting point with a tiny bottle jack, on uneven ground is not a good idea. You'll end up lifting both back tires of the ground and it will be super tippy and unsafe. You want to be able to lift from one side and only lift the problem tire off the ground with the...
I don't want to get your string sidetracked but proceed with caution if you're going to put a rooftop tent on a Liberty. I was about to pull the trigger on one but my buddy talked me out of it. He has a similar tent on his Toyota Tundra and hates what it does to his driveability and gas mileage...
Hmm, I'm having issues with links to online stores lately - if the Walmart link doesn't work google "KFFKFF Hydraulic Bottle Jack" and look for the 10 ton one from Walmart in the search results. It's such a great deal I think it must be a mistake so don't procrastinate if you decide to buy one...
For me the answer was no. I lost a tire on a gnarly trail and my factory mechanical bottle jack was too short to lift the vehicle (3ish inch lift on 245/75-16s). I had to stack rocks to set the jack on to lift the vehicle high enough - super sketchy. My short term solution was to carry a stack...
Oh, and not sure about your 05, but on my 02 I had to extend the bracket for the rear brake line to prevent something from ripping off under full flex after the lift. I'm not familiar with how that is set up with the disc brakes on your 05 (vs the drums on early vehicles)
You can get generic Teraflex style front bumpstops on eBay - mine still look new after 5 years:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143119351905
I went with trailer ramp bumpers instead of hockey pucks for the rears. It's like they were engineered exactly for the purpose. With the hockey pucks the bolt...
I wonder if RRO went to a cheaper supplier for the bushings in later years?
My concern is that with aluminum spacers, with the stresses of driving and braking and vibration etc, the lug nuts work into the aluminum deforming it to match the shape of the lug nut and things can loosen up which...
I chased a parasitic drain for weeks till I discovered my ignition switch was the issue - I could pull the key out in any position and I was apparently not turning the key to the correct position before I pulled it out. New ignition switch solved my problem.
This is my setup - still very happy 5 years later. Ride is a lot better (softer) than stock.
I too have wheel spacers - It looked really dorky lifted with the wheels tucked way back in there. Mine are 1.5". As long as you buy quality wheel spacers and torque them a couple of times a year (re...
Good point but I've seen at least one YouTube video of a recklessly driven near-stock Liberty breaking its front diff on what I would consider an easy trail. Rather than picking a good line and crawling over something the driver floored it and had excessive wheelspin that got stopped abruptly on...
Quick update. I called Conrad's Auto Salvage in Mondovi WI about the used Draw-Tite front TJ/YJ hitch they have. They're obviously focused on counter sales and not mail order - they wanted $100 for shipping which seems unreasonable to me. At $160 total that's still the least expensive option out...
I don't know about that WO180. Who makes it? I don't see anything with that number on Rock Auto's parts list. I would avoid it if I were you. I like the MOTORCRAFT FL400S - made by Ford and has a good reputation for it's build quality and materials and it should be readily available - I usually...
Some early KJs had the Dana 35 rear diff which is inferior to the Chrysler (Corporate) 8.25, so having the 8.25 is a good thing - I've read that it is equivalent to the Dana 44 which is also considered a good diff. The weak point in the Liberty drivetrain is the front Dana 30A diff - the...
Yep, those captive nut channels would be great to have. I wonder if you could buy them from ARB? I thought about fabricating something similar - my very basic welding skills could probably handle that.
Apologies for the stream-of-consciousness here but doing a lot of research and searching on this.
I found an old string on LostJeeps where they talk about putting a Curt YJ/TJ front hitch on a KJ:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=34628&start=0
The guy said they had to...
Conrad's Auto Salvage in Mondovi WI has what looks like a Draw-Tite front hitch for $60 off a 2004 Wrangler - tempting at that price but think I'll hold out for a Curt if I decide to pull the trigger.
Actually I now think the 31408 Curt hitch would be a better match for the KJ:
https://www.etrailer.com/Front-Receiver-Hitch/CURT/31408.html?srsltid=AfmBOorNCgmHmfDgO3ROUn6oNyUl7zDywIxz7LAhEFdmyN7Ql_O4m7n2
I don't have any dimensions but guesstimating where the shackle mount hoops (or whatever...
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