We much prefer the 6spd manual vs the automatics - that's on the gas V6 perspective. (My work puts me in an automatic one now and again.)
No doubt a 6spd CRD is hard to find - not available at all in North America.
Taking the knuckle off is not a terrible job. After removing the balljoint nut, a swift hammer-blow should do it. The lower control arm is what holds your alignment anyway.
I have a spare D44 rear from a WJ. Many of them used the 242 select-trac tcase like the KJ.
The 'better' D44s beat out the 8.25", but those would be in a JK or some Rubicon model.
Some kind of LSD is better than nothing for sure. There were Powr-lok types made for the 44 - more aggressive than...
The D30 is in the front.
Jeep Dana 35 and 44 commonly use a pressed-on bearing and no c-clips. I know of other examples where 'foreign' models got alternative axles. Not sure about the Liberty.
Here's some selectable lockers:
https://ox-usa.com/product-category/1-lockers/chrysler-8-25/
https://store.arbusa.com/air-locker-differential-chrysler-8-25-29-splrd93/
There's nothing CRD-specific about your rear axle. I also believe that by 2006 the ring gear bolts are revised to 10mm (from...
Not really. Have done that with several other vehicles before to prove the theory.
Edit: still have a bottle of additive on my shelf in case I cross one that misbehaves and needs it.
I would not bother taking it further apart, and leave the additive out.
After test driving it to get the oil circulated and warm, THEN decide if it needs additive. I haven't put additive in a used posi diff for over 25 years - as it tends to defeat the grip on a used unit.
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