I don't think that there's much available for the 3.6, it's fairly well tuned as is, the diesel can be chipped but it's got a turbo that can be wound up.
Think the V6 has timing chains so probably worn & rattling until the tensioner pumps up. Definitely worth looking at as a failure will be catastrophic.
The metal core must be clamped in any bush setup, poly's use the core as a big plane bearing to rotate on, so normally smeared in silicone grease on assembly or they sqeak.
Rubber bushes are pliable and just deform between the sleeve and core to allow movement.
If it's anything like my 2004 the EGR is vacuum operated, the solenoid is the small black cylinder on the left hand side of the engine bay.
..... and the best thing that can happen to the old CRD is the EGR going mysteriously faulty in the closed position! Mine just happened to do that the...
They are all lower than the brake pedal, no adjustment I'm afraid, the easiest fix I can think of would be to attach a spacer block to the pedal to raise it up as much as you need, something like these..
I had my original key cloned, took the guy 5 minutes! I'd like another fob but nobody round here has a DRB III, I'll have to see if a Modus or Autel has the ability. Annoyingly the Euro model only has a 3 button fob so the coding trick won't work.
Is there plenty of oil in the gearbox? Is it still nice and pink? If it's brown or black the clutch packs are slipping.
Start with the cheapest part after checking the oil, the front prop UJ, is the small rubber boot still in place? If not the joint is probably wrecked. You can completely...
The annoyance of having to repeat a job and pay twice is enough to ensure I only fit decent parts, I could do with a new set of injectors & I see full sets of Chinese CRD ones on Ebay for the cost of 1 new Bosch, however I don't particularly want to burn a hole in a piston so I'll stump up for...
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