You need to put it back down on its own weight before you can assess if anything is binding.
When I lifted ours with a Teraflex kit 12 years ago (also a top strut spacer) I needed RRO's upper arms to put he camber in usable range - wore the tires crooked in just a month (without).
Torn rubber bushing are visible when you get your head right in there. I put moog ones in the first time and they tore just the same (since i had lift with no arm-angle correction).
Try a prybar between the arm and body and see if it shifts around far enough for the two to make contact.
Yup - highest chance those are torn. Having any lift, which angulates the bushings, speeds up that failure.
The arm itself is stupid-simple. About all it can do is rust away.
Slightly stiffer. Needed something better than stock that might not sag out as badly.
I also didnt have luck with a spring compressor, so I built a wooden jig to carefully support it in my 30ton press.
Upper front control arms are pretty easy. They are complete replacement unless you have aftermarket ones. The rear upper should also do a complete replacement.
Lower fronts are the trouble.... 3 bushings and a balljoint (each) to press out and press in.
My kit was sourced from some ATV parts supplier on ebay. (Not Dana Stuff) It seems this is a fairly generic type joint that shows up on ATVs and SxS's. Its also used on 99-03 Grand Cherokees, and perhaps others.
Its easy to think that. 30+ years of wrenching on my vehicles says otherwise. Pressing rusty/seized stuff apart can be unpredictably stubborn.
Another strategy I use is to only work on one side at a time. Thats half the labour, and almost no duplication of labour.
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