Recent content by PuddinsLiberty

Prop shaft is already out. The line is in the fitting but I cant get it to sit down into it

I cant for the life of me get this line in. I got new transmission cooling lines because my old ones were leaking. Ive got all 3 of the other ends in the quick connects but the upper line (cold return?) on the transmission side just wont go in. Is there a trick to this? 07 kj 3.7L 42RLE

Nope. Door chime only happens if all apply: key in, door open, and a power mirror button pressed. Its almost as if the door ajar circuit is be completed by the power mirror switch.

Also, I have a service manual for a 2006. The wire colors dont match but Im hoping the connection diagrams are correct

With the door open, if I press any direction on the power mirror switch regardless of L or R orientation, it triggers the door ajar with key in chime. The chime does not go off otherwise. And this does not happen with the door closed. The switch does not operate the mirrors. The mirrors function...

Ummm Im not sure if the ball joint is rebuildable. But it definitely wouldnt be hard to replace the balljoint. I got the one with the ball joint held in by those 4 bolts at the top

Im under the jeep right now. I can reach the nut. Just cant get any leverage to break it free. That and idk how I would torque it back after im finished

Ive got a 07 kj. Lifted 2.5 inches. Putting on JBAs UCAs. Drivers side rear bolt. How on earth do I reach it. The ABS module is in the way and I dont have enough extensions to bring the ratchet to the front. Can I take the ABS out without an issue?

Also another quick question... how do I torque off the ball joint nut. I have to hold qith a wrench to keep the ball joint from turning so how do I click it off?

Installing my new UCAs from JBA. And I just noticed there is no hole for a cotter pin on the ball joint. Old ones (not stock) didnt have them either. Is it just the lowers that have cotter pins?

Sooo to replace the clevis and the bolt/nut I'd need a spring compressor right?

Here is both sides. If I turn one side the other turns with it. So that kinda makes me think that it is crossed. That and it wouldnt budge even with over 100 ft lbs of force on it. I had the lift put on at a garage about a year ago. Along with control arms. So they caused it. Since it is so...

So I got the libby up on stands, planning to do the hubs. And I notice the bolt holding the (strut fork?) To the lower control arm isnt flush like the other side. Ive tried tightening it but it wont budge. Even past 100 ft lbs from my torque wrench. I dont have pneumatics or power tools...

Cant get new boot over splines I cant seem to slide the new boot on as simply as the post seemed to make it. Any tips?

I think whenever I do electrical Ill just disconnect the battery all together. Just to be safe. But thanks for the links Renegade. Ill take a look and make out a plan