Recent content by Kriszilla

Same thing happened to my '04. Had to have the BCM replaced. Luckily, it was still under extended warranty.

Sounds like the solenoid / actuator.

You don't need to ground all the way back to the battery. You just need to have the ground on good metal, with good contact. Have you used a multimeter to verify that you're getting +12v at the amp and +12V on the remote line when the ignition & stereo are on?

If the amp is still good and the speakers are blown, it's definitely worth the soldering time to just replace the drivers.

I know this is late to the party, but make sure you replace that plug with a rubber grommet so that the bare metal won't work its way through the insulation on your power wire over time.

I always filled mine on a level surface and it was fine for the 140K miles I put on it.

I've used that Titan cord before. It should hold its color pretty well for several years without fading, which makes it great to use for this kind of project.

That's a heck of a find. I paid a lot more for the one I had. It's also nice to see another AppRadio3 user on here!

Too much in my opinion. I ordered my UCA's off of Amazon for about $70 each, IIRC, then paid a local shop $160 to put them in as I'd just moved to TN from FL and didn't have my tools / workbench setup yet. I kinda' wish that I'd paid the extra and bought the JBA UCA's for easy ball joint...

Glad to help! You'll get addicted to constantly checking all the various things going on with your engine from one moment to the next. ;)

I'm a huge fan of a tablet used in that way and I do the same. If you've got a bluetooth Android tab there's no reason not to pick up a cheap BT OBD-II dongle. It's great with the Torque Android app for reading all of the engine management data.

Yup. Good stuff. Peel & Seal is what I've used for my last 3 vehicles, my Liberty included. It does a fantastic job and if you apply it with a heat gun it sticks very well. I have a single FI-Q 12" sub in a sealed enclosure with 1500 RMS feeding it and not a single rattle anywhere.(biggthumpup)

I put in new valve cover gaskets (the passenger side was an absolute PITA!), new rotors and ceramic pads, and an oil change.

Apparently, it's a plague going around, because I have the exact same leak in the exact same place. Is the OEM gasket set preferred or is there an aftermarket set that's just as good?

It could also be the lock cylinder itself. I had to go through the same thing with whacking the end of the key while trying to turn it until I finally got tired of it and took it in. According to the dealer service guy I spoke to, it's pretty common on the first-gen Liberty's. He replaced the...