Stripped torx on IAC sensor

[HoosierJeeper]

Was trying to clean out my throttle body...so I started unscrewing the sensor that goes in on the driver's side of the TB. One of the torx screws is stripped. What should I do? Drill it? Thanks.

 

[CzarKJ]

I would try a screw extractor first

 

[uss2defiant]

probably use an extractor.

 

[Jbergun]

Try a hex bit or a larger torx spray it doen with wd or pb blaster even if you are planing the extractor route. When using a screw extractor you need to drill a specific size hole dead center on the stripped screw. Then put the extractor on a tap handle and thread it in going counter clockwise. Slowly and steady.

 

[M38 Bob]

Try a hex bit or a larger torx spray it doen with wd or pb blaster even if you are planing the extractor route. When using a screw extractor you need to drill a specific size hole dead center on the stripped screw. Then put the extractor on a tap handle and thread it in going counter clockwise. Slowly and steady.

except when you're drilling into a allen or torx head. Then as soon as you cut to the base of the head it'll pop off. Remove the others that aren't stripped, the part comes off, leaving a stub of the headless fastener. VISEGRIPS!!!!

Bob

 

[Jbergun]

except when you're drilling into a allen or torx head. Then as soon as you cut to the base of the head it'll pop off. Remove the others that aren't stripped, the part comes off, leaving a stub of the headless fastener. VISEGRIPS!!!!

Bob

If the head snaps off the extractor/drill bit combo was too large. You want to start with the smallest possible extractor. This way if it doesnt work you can use a larger one. Up to a point i think a #2 extractor/drill bit combo would snap the head off. So i would start with a #0.

 

[CactusJacked]

If the head snaps off the extractor/drill bit combo was too large. You want to start with the smallest possible extractor. This way if it doesnt work you can use a larger one. Up to a point i think a #2 extractor/drill bit combo would snap the head off. So i would start with a #0.

That was his point, purposely make the head pop off. Then when you remove the sensor, grab the exposed stud with a vice grips.

 

[M38 Bob]

That was his point, purposely make the head pop off. Then when you remove the sensor, grab the exposed stud with a vice grips.

EXACTLY! The bolt's done FUBARED, why make it any harder than necessary?

Bob

 

[CactusJacked]

When I get stubborn bolts like this, provided there's room, I'll grind the head off with my cut-off wheel. Then call in the vice grip squad! Cutting/grinding is easier and faster than drilling, and usually involves less cussing.

 

[M38 Bob]

Unless the head is in a recess.

Bob

 

[LibertyTC]

I don't know how HJ started stripping the torx head...
Were you using a t-bit screw or bit driver?
I use a 1/4 ratchet rig to break them free. Tape T-bit to socket too.
I can get way more safe inward pressure and hold to break em free this way.
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I also use a sniff of anti-seize on those threads before re-installation.

 

[CactusJacked]

Unless the head is in a recess.

Bob

Yes, hence my aforementioned "provided there's room".

 

[Jbergun]

I would rather attempt to get the bolt out as a whole. A bolt without a head can be very difficult to get out. When i do get stuck in that position i use a file and make a slot in the headless screw. This way you can use a flat head screwdriver to remove it. For me extractor would be the first option and drilling the head would be a last resort. I guess this is just personal preference. Usually i can jam a different size torx or hex in there to bite enough to remove it.

 

[CactusJacked]

I believe the screw is a T20 and the threaded part is equivalent to a #8 screw, which is approx 5/32" (between 1/8" and 3/16"). The issue is you're dealing with a bolt that doesn't want to give and is in tight enough to strip out the torx head. To drill out for an extractor, the hole will need to be itty bitty which also means using a tiny brittle extractor.

 

[M38 Bob]

What don't you guys understand about once the head is gone, whatever the part is will slide over the fasteners shaft. Once the head is gone the torque that made the fastener strip the head in the first place is GONE!!! It then takes very little, often finger tight, pressure to remove the fastener shaft.

Bob

 

[M38 Bob]

Old style manual locking 4wd hubs such as Warn and Mile Marker used those tiny Allen head screws, six I think, to hold the outer cover/button in place. Folks would tighten em down like it held the whole damn hub on, so when ya went to remove them the Allen would strip. I've removed dozens over the years by drilling the heads off. Then remove the hub, and the stem would turn out with your fingers. 'Course there were a LOT more I got out by driving a slightly larger metric Allen, torx, etc. in as others have suggested

Bob

 

[Jbergun]

What don't you guys understand about once the head is gone, whatever the part is will slide over the fasteners shaft. Once the head is gone the torque that made the fastener strip the head in the first place is GONE!!! It then takes very little, often finger tight, pressure to remove the fastener shaft.

Bob

Your right i didnt think of that the head pressing against the part is what makes the immense pressure.