A/C refrigerant leak

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a_ibrahem

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Hello Guys,

I have 2007 KJ sport AT with 130,000 KM so far.

i never had any issue with the A/C ,recently on the 120,000 KM service the delaer was doing the summer AC campain then they came out with a report that they need to change compressor ,accumolator and Liquid line due to some leak and total cost about 2000 $ ,

since i never had any issue with the AC ,coud it that they screw up something ?

and if i really had a leak do i have to change all of these 3 items ?

can the leak be fixed some how ? and how to detect it ?

Thank you guys
Tawfik
 

dude1116

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Hello Guys,

I have 2007 KJ sport AT with 130,000 KM so far.

i never had any issue with the A/C ,recently on the 120,000 KM service the delaer was doing the summer AC campain then they came out with a report that they need to change compressor ,accumolator and Liquid line due to some leak and total cost about 2000 $ ,

since i never had any issue with the AC ,coud it that they screw up something ?

and if i really had a leak do i have to change all of these 3 items ?

can the leak be fixed some how ? and how to detect it ?

Thank you guys
Tawfik

Don't get your AC serviced unless it's not working. If it's leaking refrigerant, you would know (it would blow hot...). There are also products that you can use to spot where the system is leaking (although I have no idea how well those work...). I wouldn't let them touch it. Unless it's not working for one reason or the other, then it's working the way it should. AC units are closed systems. If they lose "coolness", then there's a leak in the system. I've never had to recharge mine in 4 years and 52k miles. Still blows as cool as the day I got her.
 

JeepCoMJ

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I just replaced the dryer (accumulator) and A/C condenser, both schraeder valves, and all o-rings for under $200, then had a vac pulled and a/c charged for $60.


The dealership is trying to rip you off.
 

tjkj2002

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Don't get your AC serviced unless it's not working. If it's leaking refrigerant, you would know (it would blow hot...). There are also products that you can use to spot where the system is leaking (although I have no idea how well those work...). I wouldn't let them touch it. Unless it's not working for one reason or the other, then it's working the way it should. AC units are closed systems. If they lose "coolness", then there's a leak in the system. I've never had to recharge mine in 4 years and 52k miles. Still blows as cool as the day I got her.
All R134A system naturally loose R134A over time with no leaks since the molecules are much smaller then R12's it just passes through the rubber hoses.On average a typical R134A AC system will loose about 0.25 oz each year which is considered normal due to the make up of R134A.A few years ago I leak tested my AC system with a sonic tester(best way to find the smallest leaks) and none found and my system was 2oz low,still blew cold as ever when 2oz low so that was the normal loss over a 8 year period.So as long as your system stay's "closed" generally it will need re-charging after 8 or so years for best performance.

Your AC system can still blow cold and still be low,generally it takes 2-6oz loss to actually feel the difference depending on the size of the system.A suburban with rear AC takes 4lbs of R134A so it can loose more and still function correctly then a KJ's system that only holds 1.6lbs.As per industry standards any R134A loss greater then 0.25oz per year the system has a leak.If I remember correctly it's any more then 0.10 oz for R12 systems to have a actual leak.
 

a_ibrahem

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yes they are riping everyone off not only me ,what can i do about it ?
i was looking under the hood when i saw this ,it looks like a leak for me from compressor ?
if it is so ,can it be fixed or the whole comp need to be replaced.

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BR,
Tawfik
 
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JeepCoMJ

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Looks simple as a bad oring. And even if it were the pump, a new one isn't $2000. Maybe $300 all said and done
 

dude1116

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All R134A system naturally loose R134A over time with no leaks since the molecules are much smaller then R12's it just passes through the rubber hoses.On average a typical R134A AC system will loose about 0.25 oz each year which is considered normal due to the make up of R134A.A few years ago I leak tested my AC system with a sonic tester(best way to find the smallest leaks) and none found and my system was 2oz low,still blew cold as ever when 2oz low so that was the normal loss over a 8 year period.So as long as your system stay's "closed" generally it will need re-charging after 8 or so years for best performance.

Your AC system can still blow cold and still be low,generally it takes 2-6oz loss to actually feel the difference depending on the size of the system.A suburban with rear AC takes 4lbs of R134A so it can loose more and still function correctly then a KJ's system that only holds 1.6lbs.As per industry standards any R134A loss greater then 0.25oz per year the system has a leak.If I remember correctly it's any more then 0.10 oz for R12 systems to have a actual leak.

Definitely cool to know!

In either case, no need to dealer service that unless it's completely broke and he's tried recharging it at least once.
 

tjkj2002

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Yeah, I could still ship him one for under $200 brand new, and install is not expensive.

His dealership is trying to pull the wool over his eyes.
yeah I'd like to see a brand new AC compressor for a KJ for $200,not a reman or rebuilt unit.Never going to find it.


If you read the OP 1st post that $2000 is the new compressor,line,reciever/dryer,and labor which is not that bad for a overseas dealership price using OEM parts.Heck it cost's $1200 here in the states using a remaned compressor and aftermarket parts on a KJ.

Just because you can do it cheaper does not mean a shop will match your price and not everyone can do this type of repair on there own.
 

JeepCoMJ

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yeah I'd like to see a brand new AC compressor for a KJ for $200,not a reman or rebuilt unit.Never going to find it.


If you read the OP 1st post that $2000 is the new compressor,line,reciever/dryer,and labor which is not that bad for a overseas dealership price using OEM parts.Heck it cost's $1200 here in the states using a remaned compressor and aftermarket parts on a KJ.

Just because you can do it cheaper does not mean a shop will match your price and not everyone can do this type of repair on there own.

Everyone can very capably grab a 10mm and 13mm socket, take off the header, replace a condensor, line set, or grab the appropriate 15mm and 13mm to replace a compressor. Anyone who can't does honestly deserve to pay those kind of prices. it is remedial mechanics. What's hard is having the appropriate tools to pull vac, and charge...which I don't, so I pay to have that done.

And you're right, I can send him a reman for $200.
 

tjkj2002

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Everyone can very capably grab a 10mm and 13mm socket, take off the header, replace a condensor, line set, or grab the appropriate 15mm and 13mm to replace a compressor. Anyone who can't does honestly deserve to pay those kind of prices. it is remedial mechanics. What's hard is having the appropriate tools to pull vac, and charge...which I don't, so I pay to have that done.

And you're right, I can send him a reman for $200.
Yeah but poeple with no knowledge of AC systems will screw up even the simple install of the parts.It's alot more then just taking the old part out and putting the new part in as you should know.

The last KJ with a 3.7 that I did a AC compressor,which must include the line and reciever/dryer, only calls for less then 3 hours of labor total.The parts are the costly part.
 

JeepCoMJ

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Yeah but poeple with no knowledge of AC systems will screw up even the simple install of the parts.It's alot more then just taking the old part out and putting the new part in as you should know.

The last KJ with a 3.7 that I did a AC compressor,which must include the line and reciever/dryer, only calls for less then 3 hours of labor total.The parts are the costly part.


I agree. a crapped out pump does necessitate replacement of other parts simply because you have no idea if there are any parts or pieces or debris from inside the pump accumulated in the output line or reciever/dryer.

That said, the basic repairs that I've had were as follows;
Bad condensor (cracked)
bad o-rings
bad a/c clutch
bad evaporator
bad low pressure line

All of those require no replacement of parts other than the part in question. It's adviseable to always replace the reciever/dryer when opening the system, but not required. I've found that you just have to pull a vac for a bit longer to boil out any moisture.

I got out of the pro mechanic scene. It destroyed my hobby, and doesn't make one reasonable money unless you own your shop and can manage the office, too.

I guess where I've got anything to say is that there is so much knowledge from people like yourself out there online, that the actual parts replacement is easy once you have confirmed what parts should be replaced in correlation with failure of things such as the a/c pump.


non-related example;
dropped valve seat w/o cracked piston, replacing heads. If you're doing one head, you should have the other rebuilt or replace it. You MUST replace the head bolts, as they are torque to yield.
 

a_ibrahem

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Hello Guys,

today I was looking again under hood while A/C running outside temp was 45 C so much humidity ,I found the area in above photo full of water ,also the complete hose was surrounded by water drops ,also the accumulator and liquid line , see below photos .

is that normal ? is this a condensate water from humidity and hot weather ?

if so ,then the old photo could be the water is coming along the hose from outside not leaking from inside.

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I was thinking to isolate all the hoses and pipes with foam to prevent the outside heat ,is that a good idea ?

kindly advise,
BR,
Tawfik
 

JeepCoMJ

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that is normal condensation in high humidity. do not insulate the hoses. you will make it that much harder for them to do the job right, and might start the jeep on fire from the high side.
 

a_ibrahem

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that is normal condensation in high humidity. do not insulate the hoses. you will make it that much harder for them to do the job right, and might start the jeep on fire from the high side.

So that means that the first photo on the comp is not a leak ,is just the water going there along the pipe ,then how to find that leak if there is any as the dealer said

BR,
Tawfik
 

profdlp

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So that means that the first photo on the comp is not a leak ,is just the water going there along the pipe ,then how to find that leak if there is any as the dealer said

BR,
Tawfik

If you are in the UAE (approximately 100F right now, assuming Weather.com can be trusted) and the A/C works, you probably don't have a leak at all.

It's like telling someone you think they have a terrible illness, then offering them some medicine for $2000.
 

JeepCoMJ

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So that means that the first photo on the comp is not a leak ,is just the water going there along the pipe ,then how to find that leak if there is any as the dealer said

BR,
Tawfik


no, that is a leak. stains like that don't occur without oil in them, which refrigerent has.
 

a_ibrahem

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ok so if it s a leak ,simple oring will solve it ? and to install this oring do they need to remove all refrigerant and fill in again after ? and is that all all anything else i should be aware of ?

BR,
Tawfik
 

JeepCoMJ

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that's what it looks like to me.


You've not yet answered this, but does your a/c currently work?
 

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