Installation has begun!

[JeepJeepster]

Got some pioneer premier components and a 4 channel pioneer amp(60 watts RMSx4). For now Im sticking with the HU Ive got although Im seriously eye balling the Pioneer 710BT.

Went ahead and removed the seats.. Plan on detailing it and this lets me run wires easier.

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Put the amps on the bottom of my shelf.. Going to see how that works out heat wise.

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6 gauge ran for the 4 channel amp and 5 gauge for the sub amp.

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All connections are soldered and covered with heat shrink:

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This speaker was already in the rear door but wiring it was as far as I got today. Running all new wires from the 4 channel amp to all speakers. Components will be going in the front doors and dash of course.

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[HoosierJeeper]

Nice...I next detail I'll remove the seats...

 

[JeepJeepster]

Good gosh, can you fix that dang title? Kills me that I cannot edit the title.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

Sweet Blake! Good idea mounting your amps under the shelf. Heat shouldn't be an issue...ThunderbirdJunkie has his under his driver side back seat.

 

[JeepJeepster]

Ive never even felt the sub amp get warm when it was mounted on the side of the box so hopefully they wont over heat upside down. I tried to fit that 4 channel amp under the rear seats but once I wiggled it under there the seats wouldnt fold down. Its nice and easy to get to the wiring with them under that shelf too so thats nice.

More pics from today.. Ran out of speaker wire so Ive not done the tweeters yet. Seems they made it 100% impossible to put wires through the boots on the front doors so I had to use the stock wiring through those doors. Ran speaker wire from the amp to the cross overs then from the cross overs to the stock wiring behind the HU. Then cut the wires at the connector in the front doors and soldered them to the front speakers. No issues running speaker wire through the boots on the back doors. Only thing thats left is to put the tweeters in, wire those, and get some more ground wire for the amps. I also put in a new steering wheel adapter so that the steering wheel controls are hard wired and not wireless. Should work much better.

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Putting the crossovers under the steering wheel.

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[HoosierJeeper]

Good gosh, can you fix that dang title? Kills me that I cannot edit the title.

I can fix it....LMK what you want.....

 

[JeepJeepster]

Wrapped things up today. Pictures explain themselves..

Those dang grab handles took a 7/32 deep well socket. Odd size but thankfully I had one.

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Found my new favorite crimp connectors!

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Old tweeters kinda looked like little speakers rather than tweeters. No way those put out highs like my new ones. They will sting if you turn it up too loud.

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Other than that I put in another Pac Adapter for the steering wheel controls. Before I had a Pac Adapter but it was wireless and hardly worked right. This one is all hard wired and works much better but the instructions were wrong on just about everything possible. Wire colors, how to program, all wrong. Called them up and they tried to tell me I had a bad ground which was crap.. Took forever to sort through everything and get that working but its nice to have good controls back.

 

[JeepJeepster]

Ohh, if anyone knows the difference between -3DB and 0 DB on that crossover feel free to let me know. I can hook the tweeters up to either of those. Currently have it on 0DB.. Not tried -3DB though.

Another thing, Ive noticed Im getting some noise on the drivers side tweeter. Can only hear it when the HU is off and the ignition is on. If I take the cross over out from under the steering wheel it stops and if I turn the HU on it stops. Suppose Im getting some inductance under there so any advice on that would be great. May wrap it all in aluminum foil..

 

[eradicator006]

Ohh, if anyone knows the difference between -3DB and 0 DB on that crossover feel free to let me know. I can hook the tweeters up to either of those. Currently have it on 0DB.. Not tried -3DB though.

Another thing, Ive noticed Im getting some noise on the drivers side tweeter. Can only hear it when the HU is off and the ignition is on. If I take the cross over out from under the steering wheel it stops and if I turn the HU on it stops. Suppose Im getting some inductance under there so any advice on that would be great. May wrap it all in aluminum foil..

That switch on the crossover is used to control the tweeter volume. If the tweeter is too loud, set to -3db. If it's too quiet, set to 3db. If it's just right, leave at 0.

 

[hyde]

Blake, you took that jeep apart just for a set of new speakers! Of course, I wouldn't expect less from you, as this is the only way to make sure everything is done as neatly as possible.

1) Tweeters are hard-wired?
2) What's up with the sharp screws underneath?
3) Is this picture for door speakers? Or is this the cross over to back of the H/U spot?
and last, was it that hard to remove the dash trim, reports claim it was brittle..

 

[JeepJeepster]

Been wondering when you would see my thread hyedipin. Yup, only the best here.

1. Yup, speaker wire is ran from the cross overs under the steering wheel to each tweeter.
2. The screws came with the tweeters for mounting. I just used them to screw the tweeters to the striping. There was nothing under them so I left them long.
3. That is a picture of the wiring at the left rear door speaker.
4. The trim for the tweeters? Wasnt hard at all. MUCH easier than trying to get a door panel off, thats for sure. Once the grab handles were removed(7/32 deep well socket needed) it simply popped right off. Started working on it at one end and gently worked my way across. It was kinda odd so youve gotta be careful. The back of the trim(right against the windshield) pops out at an angle while the front part pops straight up.

 

[hyde]

Thanks Blake, I have been a bit busy, otherwise I wouldn't have missed it from day 1.

Regarding 3), do the speakers come with wires soldered on their terminals? Is that why you couldn't just crimp/solder the wires straight onto the speakers and had to heat shrink the thinner wire to the blue one?

Those you got looks like D720's since I don't see any adapters..

 

[ptsb5a]

Ohh, if anyone knows the difference between -3DB and 0 DB on that crossover feel free to let me know. I can hook the tweeters up to either of those. Currently have it on 0DB.. Not tried -3DB though.
QUOTE]

dB, Decibels, is a measurement of magnitude of a physical quantity (power or intensity) .. for this we'll employ dB SPL (Sound pressure level). A -3dB drop is essentially a halving of the power output to the tweeter. In a perfect world your 60w RMS (Root Mean Squared) sent to the speakers with absolutely NO loss would be divided between the speaker and tweater with equal power to both. Copper loss effect being what it is, depending on wire gauge, already attenuates the high freq signal to your tweets from the amp because high freq energy tends to "ride" on the outside layer of a stranded conductor. SO dependant on a pile of variables like the Fco of the crossover network, the gauge of the wire, size of the individual strands..et al, you most likely already have a loss on the high freq side of the crossover network. If it sounds good at the 0db setting, leave it. Just as a note, it takes at least a change of 3 dB for a human to be able to discern a difference in volume. Put simply, if 1w = 1 dB, a +3dB increase would net a 2w ouput, a -3dB attenuation would net 0.5w output.

Can anyone, besides the Greeks, put Greek characters on a keyboard. I need Delta and Lambda to explain this stuff!!

 

[hyde]

They are available in Character Map: Ω Λ Δ

 

[JeepJeepster]

Thanks ptsb5a, thats exactly what I need. They are not really too loud just very aggressive. For now Ive got the treble turned down so when I turn the volume up I retain my hearing. Ill try hooking them up to -3db and see how that sounds.

hyedipin, the mtx speakers came with two wires which already had the terminals crimped on. They slid onto the terminals on the speakers. I could of just used a butt connector to connect to the blue speaker wire but I like soldering when I can.

The Pioneer speakers didnt come with any wires or anything for some odd reason. The connections on the speaker take what I believe is a 1/4" quick connect and a 3/16" quick connect. I just soldered the wiring directly to the speaker.

Yup, I got the D720's.

http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_130TSD720C/Pioneer-Premier-TS-D720C.html?search=D720&ssi=0

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GM6400F/Pioneer-GM-6400F.html?tp=115

 

[hyde]

Thanks Blake, so the question, how do they sound now, and do you hear a lot coming from the rear speakers now that you have a dedicated amp?