How To: Change front driveshaft / change a driveshaft head

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TheTwice

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I seem to be having a similar problem to others before. I cannot get the drive shaft to even budge an inch after removing the bolts. Ive used elbow grease, hammered pulled tugged pried. The Front Shaft does not compress at all. Not a bit of movement and I consider myself to be reasonably strong. I am able to fit under the jeep without jacking it up so my question is:

If I dont jack the front of the jeep up, will that prevent removal of the front drive shaft somehow?

If not, any tips or tricks to dislodge that sucker? ( yes I am doing the TCase end first)
 

Strikeking

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On the transfer case end the yoke actually has little notches that u can tap a screw driver in to seperate the joint and the yoke. Or there are also holes on the back side of the yoke. Once I got the TC side free rest it ontop o the TC and work on the diff end. I had to use a pipe wrench to crack the Cv free from the yoke. Let me know if you have any diff fluid inside the yoke on the diff end.
 

Leeann

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For the transfer case end, I used my 1-1/8" wrench where the shaft gets larger, using the crossmember as the pivot point and pried it out. Took some force.

On the front end, I had to spray PB Blaster with the straw all the way around, then tap with the hammer, using the force to push it out little by little. It finally also popped free.
 

Strikeking

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Hey Leeann any diff fluid in the front yoke when u got the driveshaft out?
 

Leeann

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No. I had drained the diff first, if that makes any difference.
 

TruLiberty

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Hey guys, doing the front joint finally, still got plenty of grease, but the boot was ripped a bit so im just replacing the whole thing....but i cant seem to fin the clip to get the dang head off the shaft...tips?

Nvm found it under the grease
 

houstoib

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Need help

Sorry fellas, I've tried and I'm calling it unless someone can help me.

Dropped it out of the jeep easy enough.

However, I can't get the old CV joint off of the drive shaft for the life of me. I took off the cap, removed the retaining clip. But the boot was gone, absolutely gone, and the inside is rusted like you would not believe. I've pulled, wrenched, tugged, twisted, pry'd, and finally hammered on the bloody thing. It won't budge from the end. I'm sure I can get it off, but not without bending the drive shaft.

Anybody have this problem? Any solutions?
 
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TwoBobsKJ

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Sorry fellas, I've tried and I'm calling it unless someone can help me.

Dropped it out of the jeep easy enough.

However, I can't get the old CV joint off of the drive shaft for the life of me. I took off the cap, removed the retaining clip. But the boot was gone, absolutely gone, and the inside is rusted like you would not believe. I've pulled, wrenched, tugged, twisted, pry'd, and finally hammered on the bloody thing. It won't budge from the end. I'm sure I can get it off, but not without bending the drive shaft.

Any body have this problem? Any solutions?

Spray a bunch of PB Blaster along the splines, let it sit overnight, then rent a gear puller from AutoZone or another parts store. Clamp the shaft in a vise good and tight and be prepared to crank on the gear puller bolt pretty hard. Once it loosens up it will come off pretty easily. You may need to clean up the splines with a wire brush and some more PB Blaster so the new CV joint goes on easily. Be sure to put some grease on the splines when you put on the new CV.

Bob
 

houstoib

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Yah, this is what I thought.

I'm sure this would work. But at this point, I've bought or being asked to buy/rent:
A high quality snap ring plier
PB Blaster
A vise
A gear puller
A wire brush

And I'm still left with a crappy drive shaft with a nice new CV joint. Considering the whole drive shaft is $90 more than just the CV joint, I think I'm just gonna return the CV joint and buy the drive shaft itself.

Thanks guys. I appreciate all the info. Never would have solved the problem otherwise. But I'm surprised people aren't on here just recommending a new drive shaft. You're talking $150 vs. $60. Not that big of a difference and you get a nice new drive shaft, both ends nice and new and all.
 

Luke

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I can only speak for us North of the border types... but your not going to find one here for less that $400... and that's the cheap price.

That is why I would not recommend it :D
 

Snail Farmer

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I tell you what. I thought the same thing myself. I ordered a new drive shaft from them because I figured for the price it was worth it. I ordered the shortest drive shaft they offered, but it was still too long. So I had to return it and get just the CV head. But I have a manual transmission. Not sure what the length difference is on the automatics. So just a thought if you go that route. It might not pan out as well as you think.
 

houstoib

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I tell you what. I thought the same thing myself. I ordered a new drive shaft from them because I figured for the price it was worth it. I ordered the shortest drive shaft they offered, but it was still too long. So I had to return it and get just the CV head. But I have a manual transmission. Not sure what the length difference is on the automatics. So just a thought if you go that route. It might not pan out as well as you think.

According to the Mopar Parts site, the automatic and manual drive shafts should be the same. Thanks for the info. Christ, now I got to wench the damn thing off. Maybe I can take it to a mechanic who will just take it off for me.

Hope I haven't damaged the thing by beating the hell out of it with a hammer.
 

houstoib

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Ok, now I don't feel such like a pansy.
I took it to the mechanic who was changing the oil in my other car and said, "good luck!" They had 3 guys on it, with a gear puller, they put the gun on it, nothing. Then one says, "bring me the torch"
They ended up just burning off the old CV joint.
I'm soaking the shaft in vinegar now to remove the rust left on it, but I don't think that's gonna be enough. Can you buy phosphoric acid in a store? Any other ideas to clean up the end? A wire brush and pb blaster ain't gonna be sufficient by the looks of it. This thing should have been replaced 100,000 miles ago, but I just recently inherited the vehicle. I'm actually surprised it didn't start squealing before now. As rusted as it is, I'm surprised.
 

houstoib

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Question:
My replacement came with 1 gasket. Does it go on the boot side or the x-fer case side of the joint?
They sent the wrong instructions in the box
 

houstoib

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OK, figured it out.
Put it together, installed it, and took it for a spin. Works great!
Thanks for everyone's help on this!
 

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