Rear Window Defroster Off

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KJcleveland

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I'm not sure if it was the cold, the high-mileage, build quality, or a combination of the lot that made this happen, but I was backing out of my drive the other day and noticed my passenger side window defroster mechanism swaying in my rear-view mirror. I'm not even sure how to fix this, because even if I solder it back on, it will inevitably fall off again due to the heat (I already did my research on that fix). Does anyone have any home-remedies, or am I going to have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer. In the mean-time, will I do any damage from running my rear window defroster with the right side hanging? I don't want to blow anything up. Thanks in advance! Here's the pics:

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dmblair78

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I tried soldering it and it was a pain. I hate soldering above my head. Gravity and hot solder and human flesh just don't jive all that well. What I ended up doing was mixing up a little jb weld and cold welding it. I made a nice little mound over the part that attached to the window and it worked perfectly. Take the wire off first so you don't have that extra pressure pulling on it while the weld is setting up. Did that 3 years ago and it's still holding strong. One thing to check....once the weld has set up enough that you can let go (but still take it off if you need to), take a meter and check continuity between the spade connector and the wires in the window to make sure you have a good connection. Use the JB Quick Weld-sets up much quicker. BTW, you won't blow anything up using as it is. I did for a couple of months until I figured out how to fix it.
 

theroofable

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I tried one of those kits and it sucked. I had to redo it and tape it in place until it dried. Not even sure if its getting a good connection, the glass never feels warm when its on, how warm is it supposed to get? Only one side fell off, same side as yours.
 

KJcleveland

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Thanks dmblair, I'll give it a shot when I get a minute to breathe. Have any of you heard of this being a common problem?
 

dmblair78

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Thanks dmblair, I'll give it a shot when I get a minute to breathe. Have any of you heard of this being a common problem?

I haven't heard of it being an "official" problem but by looking at the design you can see it. The coiled wires get really stiff in the cold therefore reducing the length needed when opening the back window. Personally I don't think solder is the way to go on that type of connection anyway, it needs to be a bracket assembly of some sort IMO. But, it's probably cheaper to just solder in the factory. Just my $.02. Good luck with it, let me know how it goes or if you have any questions.
 

KJcleveland

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I was recommended a conductor epoxy (not sure of the proper terminology) which I assume is similar to a JB weld, just more apt to creating a current. I'm going to try to stop by the auto store tomorrow and see what I can find.
 

dmblair78

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I was recommended a conductor epoxy (not sure of the proper terminology) which I assume is similar to a JB weld, just more apt to creating a current. I'm going to try to stop by the auto store tomorrow and see what I can find.

Yeah, that should work perfectly. I just made sure when I put it back together that the two surfaces were making contact also making sure that none of the weld got inside there. That's why I kept my meter handy so I could test the continuity once the adhesive started setting up.
 
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