+10pts for RUSH reference ;)
That’s the job that I bought my first snap ring pliers for … very messy but fascinating the first time see how it all works together.
Good Show! I assembled my 6112’s on the truck…. much easier/safer. The beauty of the Toyota design is you don’t have to separate the LBJ.. two bolts and it’s separated from the knuckle.
I think TC answered you 2 yrs ago… ;)
https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/front-hitch.79572/
This one may help too…
https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/front-tow-receiver.80544/
The front plug is always powered… so the question would be answered when you find out the draw as Blackhawk suggested.
Thread ''07 Front 12v Power Outlet Question'
They sure are nice! I have the 5100’s in the rear (with a Bilstein +1” coil) though so I only went half hog :D They usually pair with the 5160 reservoir type in the rear.
I’m confident mine would still be kicking’ if it wasn’t for the (body) rust. Suspension, thermostat, steering rack was all it needed over its lifetime.
Butane and propane have about the same (air) temperature. You just have to spend a bit more time as the flame is smaller. It’s definitely a less frantic operation as a result.
Heat FTW! If you don’t want to risk it or protect the lines with something you can try a small butane torch (lighter on steroids) so you are better able to control the heat. This worked for me when I was too close to brake lines.
I might be too late… or may be tricky to get your hands on but I’m going on two years now and they still look great.
https://www.meguiars.com/automotive/products/meguiars-ultimate-headlight-restoration-kit-perfect-headlight-repair-kit-remove
My 2 cents … if you have access to Oshpo or similar, a couple coats to convert that rust into iron phosphate before you raptor it, will preserve all of your hard work.
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