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So long as it's not like most other KJ's (Jeeps in general) where you get done with a $30,000 upgrade project, only to watch the body on it rust away over the next 5 years.

Are you keeping the KJ steering gear for this project? If so, replace your rack bushings while you have such easy access to them. You can see the drivers' side bushing is already wopped out and damaged (as they all are).

I hate the electronic throttle on my GMC... my Ford/Mercury is great, wouldn't know it was NOT a cable. Jeep still does feel the best of all of them though.

Do whatever you want, but you don't need to be a D**K about it. Also, most aftermarket accessory lighting uses plastic or ABS impact resistant lenses. Those with glass typically state for off-road use only.

All of that.. they are neither flat, nor actually round. Also keep in mind that if you ever are in an accident and these retrofitted glass lenses shatter (they will) and injure someone (another reason why they were eliminated from cars), the liability on you is going to be astronomical. And...

Very true.... but those old days are waaaaaay long ago. Even 20-25 years ago you still had to contend with computer systems, transmission controls and module, not to mention ignition security that would prevent an oddball engine swap from starting.... and that was just in the 1990s!

Only if you could find lenses that were identical in size. Where would those come from? We don't share headlight housings with any other vehicle. Why would any be made aftermarket? I think you've got a good conceptual idea here... just not likely to see fruition. Is the reason why you...

So the battery was bad/dead? A voltmeter would have shown this without as much confusion, and probably could have been charged. The next question is why did it fail or deplete it's voltage in the time it took you to replace the one control arm?

Do you have a DIGITAL voltmeter? Can you verify power at the battery cables/terminals while connected? Can't tell you what to fix because we don't know what you did... .clearly something either broken or disconnected while you were doing the job. Just verify power is where it should be...

After plugs and coil didn't fix it, compression test should have been next. Do that... probably a collapsed valve lifter in this case.

I'd start your own thread for this, it'll get more views than one that is almost 5 years old. Sometimes people see you posting a new issue (even if kind of related) to an old necro-thread like this and don't bother to reply simply because. But a new, dedicated topic will get views and replies...

Ah a good clay barring... so many people don't know about or just plain skip the clay bar. Single best thing you can do to paint (even brand new) other than wash it.

What Tom said... it sounds like you are a skilled fabricator.. that being so, what is your time worth? For the cost of rugged under-body armor for the Jeep, it may be more advantageous to just buy a pre-made set.

How thick is that aluminum? It will need to be quite a bit thicker than a comparable steel skid plate. Might be easier, faster, better to just get an old (or new) set of OE skids ...

I get that you're more of a parts changer than a diagnostician... but you are going to spend more than the Jeep is worth replacing parts and possibly still never fix this going how you're doing this now. Given you've checked for injector operation, replaced all plugs and coils and yet still...

Only buy OEM for parts like lift kit? What in the heck are you talking about? OE/Mopar/Jeep does not, nor have they ever or will they ever offer a lift kit of any kind for the KJ/KK.

Clevis height is separate from spring rates chosen... 3/8" max is because of the suspension geometry design, being able to get alignment within spec, and probably most importantly, having enough of the shock INSIDE the steering knuckle to be able to stay together. 926 springs are only...

You're on fire lately, Dave! Spot on assessment. And after the dust has cleared, someone should be asking why the "new" engine overheated in the first place. If it was/is a true rebuilt engine, it should have had a new mopar thermostat installed using actual HOAT coolant, a cleaned out or...

With issues like this, removing the aftermarket remote start would have been the FIRST thing I did. Those things always cause issues.. eventually. I'd absolutely second the suggestion by Dave up there regarding the 5v and 12v power line monitors.. the lack of DTC's is disturbing. His...

I would think on the 05+ you could do as I did and just look underneath. I could see the metal frame extensions on mine... then kinda back your head off and you can visually align where those extensions are in relation to the bumper. All of the 05+ bumpers I've seen are either flat all the way...