The oem steel wheels are a bit thin imo. The offset is so much on the oem wheels that the inner barrel is pretty unsupported. After I evaluated the steel as compared to oem alloy, I abandoned my plans for replacement.
Each tire manufacturer has different diameter specs. So not all 245/75/16 have the same overall diameter. As an example, I've been running Cooper Discoverer AT3 4s 235/75/16 for a few years on 19.25" of space, no rubbing even offroading. They're spec'd at 29.7" diameter. Same model of 245/75/16...
I also replaced my oem front coils with moog for the first 2 years I owned my kJ. Eventually they sagged Back down to about to the same height as before, took about 1 year. Recently I installed ome springs and I won’t be looking back. Increased height, ride quality maintained, only slightly...
Definitely need the 790’s 500# rating with both arb and winch. Almost could use 790’s with the detours and winch. If I start to get any more sagging I’m thinking of putting on a 3/4” top spacer in lieu of the 3/8”.
What’s frustrating is that arb’s application guide is way off. Medium supposed...
As I keep saying Tom, when I first installed 927 I only got 20.75”. then when it started to settle I was at 20.25” and that’s why I had to install the spacer and clevis. And the best I’m at now is 21”. Hasn’t changed for a while now so I think it’s dropped as much as it will.
But ya steel...
Here’s a photo update of the lift evolution. First was initial install of medium and light ome springs, then settling, then winch. You can see how much the winch pulls the nose down
There’s nothing special about installing lift springs on the kJ. The rear is more difficult to install than stock because they’re longer. See pic. Just have a typical suspension or firestone shop install
I have rro spacers installed, no problem. They are one of the only kJ aftermarket suppliers around, we should stop bagging on them. I’d have no problem ordering parts from them - just don’t expect hand holding. OTOH, I don’t think a lot of companies customer service is that great nowadays. I...
My mopar one had a rounded brass head that required a special tool to remove. Normal socket didn’t fit, had to buy the socket to get it out. Oil low light started randomly coming on. Replaced with standard sensor, no problems. That’s been at least a year ago.
Check the fusible link also. It’s in the wiring harness going to the fuse box. It’s supposed to open first before something like this happens. In fact the link may have given up and caused this failure due to high resistance. Also replace the alternator with a rebuilt denso 160a but only if you...
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