The Liberty is called Cherokee everywhere besides North America. I believe the reasoning was not wanting to rub-in American patriotism around other parts of the world.
I'm not sure but there's a better chance that they'll tell you that it can't be done without buying the correct vehicle wiring harness (the bundle of wires that goes from the very front of vehocle to the very back) and installing it in your Jeep. The harness alone is like $400-600 and thats...
He's right. You've got to check e-bay every day at least once a day with the hopes of finding one. I checked at least twice a day (most times more like 8-10 times) for close to two months before I found one. I got lucky because the one I found was up for sale by a non-junkyard seller. This...
It's Sunset Wheat, and Leinie's is owned by Miller brewing now. They make some of the best tasting beer's I've ever tasted and growing up in north central Wisconsin I would say that I've been exposed to my fair share of good beers. We've got more here than almost any place in the world except...
From the JP magazine web site:
http://www.jpmagazine.com/shop4parts/154_0703_aftermarket_jeep_engine_parts/index.html
Also, here's a link to a write up on which filters tested the best using industry standard procedures and specifications...
What you're saying is true, but for the work required for the 04 and newer intake tubes to locate a place for the air sensor which sits on the factory tube just before the TB is a major pain is the butt. You'd probably have to buy another one to mount it in the new tube because there is a...
From Rusty's Offroad:
I see no reason why my version of the air tube, if paired with a high quality filter, couldn't achieve the same type of results. I don't know how scientific Rusty's numbers are. Some intake makers like to slap on over optimistic gain figures.
So....spend approximately $30-40 plus another $12-15 on shipping for a tube and filter (which you're going to have to replace within 2-4 months) or $10-15 at the most for essentially the same thing, with out the heat shield. Plus you start off with the filter that you'll end up buying in the...
I still thought that Rusty's kit was a little expensive for nothing more than a tube with a barb fitting and a mounting brace coming off of it. So, I did a little investigating (walking around Menard's and Fleet Farm with a tape measure) to see what would fit the opening of the stock Jeep...
That's just carbon build up. You should get some throttle body cleaner and a soft lint free rag and see if you can clean it up. If you feel comfortable doing so, take the TB off and you'll really be able to clean it up well.
My guess is that if the battery is corroding again and the whine is for sure coming from the speakers, there is a ground somewhere that is not as well grounded as it should be. Thats my guess.
You could mount it under the passenger seat (I think its the passenger side), to the back of the rear seat, the inside vertical surface of the tailgate and if its small enough you might even be able to sneak it under the rear seat. But don't hold me to that last one.
Otherwise, pull off a trim piece, like the one that goes on the dash near your radio and HVAC controls. On the back of it will probably be a small sticker with the date on it. That should be pretty close to the build date to give you a better idea.
I'm sure that you didn't spend thousands on your set up but for about $130 plus the cost of the wiring kit and a box to house the speaker in (you can build one your self with a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" or thicker MDF for $20.00), you can have a very nice "system" which would provide tight accurate...
If the sub w/ amp built in has a remote level control or if the amp does then all you're controlling is the volume of the sub, not it's output. Let's say you've got the sub set to put out so much bass that it causes the driver to distort like crazy. Turning the sub/amp knob only lowers the...
Actually, to have really good sounding bass and to have control over the bass he's going to need an after market head unit. Otherwise you've got to have a line level input which will work alright but basically leaves you with turning down your front or rear speakers (which ever channel you've...
-Yes, you'll need a 2004 or newer OTIS/EVIC. I know that any '04 or newer overhead console from a Liberty will work and I also know that an '04 Dakota console will work in a '04 liberty because I've got an '04 Renegade and have tried an '04 Dakota console which worked perfectly. I don't know...
If you're referring to the left and right (red and white) sub outputs as your two sub outputs, thats normal. Even though subs often act as a single speaker, rather than a pair, they still require a stereo input to the amplifier to produce sound. Check out the side of this amp from crutchfield...
Yeah, thats the same headunit that is in my Dad's Liberty. I've got to run to a class here (1:50-2:50) but I'll get back to you with a response/explanation a little after 3:00.
First of all,
Gris: You can't just take the signal from the rear speakers to act as a pre-amp input to the another amplifier. If you've got an aftermarket headunit with pre-amp outs then just go and buy a car stereo RCA cable that is long enough to reach from behind the headunit to the rear...
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