'Motorweek' on PBS just did a segment on LEDs. They showed replacement tail lights, running lights, etc. They last almost forever. The circuitry will fail before the bulb does.
Did not know about the fluid pump so I learned something new, already a good day!
Of course all this is confusing to someone who is just trying to get the OE stuff in their T-case. But if you are a DIY'er you have to know all of the angles in case the parts store that is open on Sunday...
I did use ATF-4 in mine but... I don't want to make warranty problems for someone else but I wouldn't be so hung up on ATF-4 in the t-case... ATF-4 is a cheap & satisfactory fill at the factory level due to the nature of ATF, (a superior lubricant that doesn't hurt rubber and can work under...
139K miles, 2 radiators, power window repair LR 2x, RF 1x, blower motor & rear supension recalls, catalytic converters/exhaust & A/C compressor. Drives better than new these days because the crappy OE Goodyears are long gone.
First time I ever saw ATF in a manual transmission was in about 1975. It was the factory fill on a 67 Dodge Dart. It worked fine then as is does now.
There is a syncromesh fluid just for the New Venture Gear manual transmissions used in Chrysler and GM cars. Chrysler has used it but...
The Magnaflow doesn't fit 4WD and will leave your CEL on. (P0420 & P0430) It's the shiniest, best looking P.O.S. I have ever worked with. I see other posters had success with Walkers... But I am going with OEM before my next emissions check.
Ditto on the the spark plugs, the multiple...
No, same for everybody (and almost all vehicles) but some people get good MPG and some people don't. I think it is all in the right foot. Stabbing the gas and being on/off the pedal all of the time is what kills the mileage. KJs get around pretty good on what seems like 1/8 pedal. Think...
I never heard of lubricant on the intake walls. Still so far your fuel injection is not 100% clean. Have you removed your air cleaner hose and looked inside the throttle body? There could be a ridge of gunk on the inside of your throttle body blade that is causing all of your problem...
Not necessarily from abnormal wear, also from sloppy tolerances and different materials expanding at different times in the warm up process. The Dodge 2.0 Magnum got Mahle pistons for this after a while. My 2002 Neon ACR didn't have them, it made noise for at least 140K miles that I know of...
A lot of mass produced engines make some noise. Whether it's a hydraulic lifter or piston slap. Fuel injectors will make noise too. Both of my old Neons sounded like they would blow up when starting up cold, they never did.
What it says on the filler cap and the synthetic part is up to you. Everybody has their own opinions on this.
Since the owner's manual says not to go over 6K under any circumstance and I drive 25 to 28K miles a year, (about 5 oil changes), I use dino oil and it is just fine.
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