Anyone got opinions on some brighter than stock replacement headlight bulbs? Had used the Sylvania SilverStar which were ok but their life sucked, I think a year is all I got.
I've not looked more at it but I know when I looked at replacing the radiator it required removing the entire grill work and all. I don't much see how you can get in there to pull the fan for the cowling and you can't pull it without pulling the fan. I may ask the shop up the street what he...
Yeah I burnt out the Craftsman one I had by selecting the wrong settings then applying current. Apparently the fuse in them is easily bypassed and takes out the circuit board as I've done that twice now. For measuring temps they are certainly dead on. I used it mainly for temps and as a VM on...
I've been being cooked for the past week even when outside temps dropped into the 30's. Vent temps hover in the 115-130 range via infrared thermometer. Wish my digital voltmeter/thermometer hadn't crapped out as it's more accurate and can just be left in place for testing vs. trying to shoot the...
Just 138K and other than the parts listed below it's all original equipment:
Passenger Rear Window Regulator - x2
Radiator - last summer, small crack by mounting point
Serpentine belt
A/C compressor as it was as cheap as just replacing Clutch Coil
Small elbow shaped vacuum hose by gas tank -...
Per the original owner's manual the Jeep Service Schedule is to not touch HOAT/Radiator Fluid until 60 months (5 years) or 75k miles. I understand that Jeep revised that later on and all dealers will suggest it far more often. I'll admit mine was well over due when I had the radiator replaced.
Toilet Bowl Cleaner, interesting. CLR has been mentioned by others around the Internet but that stuff can be pretty aggressive. The idea of trying to circulate whatever you are using to flush with is one you will find around with various methods of using submersible pumps and 5 gallon buckets.
No way coolant was ever mixed. Only three places have serviced my Jeep other than tires/wheels and that is Dealer, Me and the radiator shop where we discussed multiple times the need for HOAT and he even confirmed he had gone and got some from the dealer just for my job since I was so adamant...
Well I will close this thread out unless someone has something really constructive to add.
I risked the deer and took a little 10 mile loop on the highway tonight. Speeds 65-70, temps 38-42. Heat coming from vents stayed in the same 115-120 range with fan running on 2 out of 4 which is where I...
One of the first things everyone says when checking to see if the core is clogged is to check your temps of both hoses. The fact that both hoses are nearly the same temp (10 degrees difference) says fluid is still running through which I proved with flushing. So what I was asking was does this...
Problem is though if my drawing is correct and yours is incorrect then while coolant would certainly flow into all the tubes and it would warm, it would not flow evenly because as I said a fluid will always take the path of least resistance. Sure the tubes would be forced to fill but not forced...
No I get that the coolant is designed to flow into and through the tubes, no different than your home A/C unit. What I'm saying though if there is a path between inlet and outlet that can bypass the tubes then even if they were not clogged the coolant would always take the bypass as it's the...
So you think from looking at your unit that fluid can bypass the coiled tubes and just go from inlet to outlet? You expect the OEM version to do the same then? If so then this is what I'm saying is a poor design because even when new there would not be full, even flow through the entire unit as...
If you get home and can take a look to see if you think it is a coiled system vs. a radiator style system - see my other post - and could comment that would be great. Images even better. Do you have a Mopar part or OEM replacement as they may actually be different in design, doubtful but...
There would be no gasket difference. Not sure you get what I am referring to.
My assumption is the heater core would have an inlet which then flows through the tubes as they are coiled up and down to the outlet. Basically same design as an old school room heater radiator. If this was the case...
Drove around a bit this evening. Engine temps normal, outside temps 55. With heat on full, fan on nearly high (3) the temps coming out of vents stayed in the 115-120 range, while parked or driving at 45-50mph. (Laser Infrared Thermometer aimed into vents)
Won't be seeing even 30's except early...
So like most radiators the inlet tube isn't a single path to the outlet tube but there is an open area across the top where fluids can avoid the tube path through the coils but and just head straight over to the outlet? If so then that would seem to be a poor design as it would never allow for...
Yes proper fluids have always been used. Parking on an incline assist in getting any trapped air out of the system. It's not hard hearing the doors and actuator movement. Open your glove box fully, push in the tabs to allow it to drop out of the way, put your ear in that area and move your heat...
Well I pulled the glove box and you can clearly hear the doors closing.
I'll add that in an effort to get heat this past weekend I placed the unit on A/C, recirculating air, full heat and the temps were nearly identical to heat only so I'm pretty sure the door is fine.
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