If I were you I'd replace that rad cap with the factory Mopar one. Not sure if that could be part of the problem but it was for me and many others on here.
Looking from the front of the vehicle the casting number should be just to the right of the oil fill tube - I can see and read mine but that's likely an area that will get covered in grime over the years. You might need to do some cleaning.
I'd be concerned about plugging your catalytic...
Agree with u2slow. Also, I assume you're going to reinstall the sway bar which should limit the amount of droop and hopefully prevent the UCA from hitting the spring. That said, I had occasional UCA / spring contact on the passenger side with my OME/Bilstein lift and ended up going with some RRO...
I really don't think it's something you need to worry about. I believe these drivetrains were also fitted to Dodge Ram pickup trucks with higher tow / load ratings so they're over-engineered for the little Liberty / Cherokee. I live in the Rocky Mountains at 6,500 ft in Southwest Colorado and...
A few random thoughts:
I'm assuming you've retraced and checked all the electrical connections - a common trouble area is where your 3 electrical connections attach to the starter and it would be easy for 2 of those to be touching and shorting out on each other - that would probably be the...
That seems like great info from the lube Engineer. Just confirms that no matter what is happening with your shifting issues you need to get that Mercon out of there right now. That would be #1 priority for me and hopefully it fixes your issues - if not then you go to the next troubleshooting...
Good to know Celticlady - do you know what stud to stud length you ended up adjusting those to? My only reservation with those is that the stud diameter is M10 and you need a spacer washer to adapt to the Liberty's M12 mounting holes. Something the same length but with M12 studs would likely be...
I would consider that negligence on the part of the shop. Betting they just didn't have the right fluid on hand so gave you what they had. At a minimum you should get a full refund - not sure I'd want them doing the work over with the ATF+4 though since they obviously can't be trusted. Maybe try...
I have not - I seem to have very good clearance with a similar lift. Can you include photos? Seems unusual, like something is upside down or mounted wrong or you got the wrong parts. And probably a dumb question, but are you considering right and left as you sit in the driver's seat? Photos...
I don't think I'd invest that much in putting in a used engine. Whatever you find will likely have over 100k miles - might go another 100k or it might blow up at 101k. Also, those $numbers seem a little low especially since you'll want to go through the engine and do a major service / inspection...
So when you take your foot off the brake and start moving does it continue or go away?
I think I'd get an assistant to be in the driver's seat in drive with foot on the brake while you crawl around underneath with a "stethoscope" to your ear to try to narrow in on the source - by stethoscope I...
If I were you that's what I would try first - get a new crush sleeve and install it and hope that does the trick. I used a little 1/4" torque wrench for bicycles to get the proper preload.
I've seen pros use an impact wrench on pinion nuts but you have to be super careful and go really slowly...
That would be great news if it was all just caused by a loose connection. I guess you'll still need to get rid of that CEL for your emissions test though. If you can't do it with the scanner hopefully you can get rid of it by disconnecting the battery terminals and clamping them together...
No check engine light? No codes?
I had an 89 Mustang that did exactly what you're describing and it turned out to be a bad fuel pump so you may be on the right track. If it's as gross as you describe it sounds like you'll want to replace it anyway. I don't know if and where a fuel filter might...
If it was your PCM there are services out there that can fix it - I've never done that but it doesn't look to be super expensive:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324129790348
I once had a Ford PCM/ECU go bad (car would randomly go into limp mode and all the instruments went bonkers) - bought a used...
I guess the sound could be the fuel pump then. Doesn't necessarily mean it's bad though. The fact that it stays on a while after you've shut the engine off might indicate a fuel leak, since it might be struggling to maintain fuel pressure? The vehicle runs OK though, right? And no obvious fuel...
That is weird. I wonder if that points to a bad PCM? I recon you should always be able to reset a CEL, at least until you fire up the vehicle again.
Or I wonder if turning the key to "on" fires up the LDP briefly (which might make sense since the fuel pump will come on momentarily and...
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