Upper front control arms are pretty easy. They are complete replacement unless you have aftermarket ones. The rear upper should also do a complete replacement.
Lower fronts are the trouble.... 3 bushings and a balljoint (each) to press out and press in.
My kit was sourced from some ATV parts supplier on ebay. (Not Dana Stuff) It seems this is a fairly generic type joint that shows up on ATVs and SxS's. Its also used on 99-03 Grand Cherokees, and perhaps others.
Its easy to think that. 30+ years of wrenching on my vehicles says otherwise. Pressing rusty/seized stuff apart can be unpredictably stubborn.
Another strategy I use is to only work on one side at a time. Thats half the labour, and almost no duplication of labour.
Yup. Very much me too. Struts and front diff/axle work havent needed any re-alignment.
I have a few vehicles on rotation so i dont have to perform miracles on only 1-2days downtime.
My strategy has been to slowly buy all the pieces in a semi-priority fashion.
Some things need doing sooner, so do them sooner. "Everything at once" tends to screw me over so I don't do it. Nothing $ucks like clearing a 3 day window to do all the work and some stubborn or broken pieces wrecks...
Mine are RRO. They were mainly for camber correction. I burned off 40% of my new tires at an angle before I got them.
With sufficient lift, any upper arm can hit the spring on full-droop (not compression).
I went with a Teraflex budget-boost kit. Been on for over 100,000km now. The only real catch was I needed aftermarket upper control arms to bring the camber back from eating tires.
Anyway, here is an cheaper knockoff of the Teraflex front spacers: https://a.co/d/dq07W6a
On the rear I have...
Torn boomerang bushings is common with lift. Too much angulation on them. I went with JBA's tri-link extension to get it back to level. If I'd had more time to d!cker around I would have built my own version instead of buying.
I have both transfer cases. One lacks "full-time".
Part-time is the simpler version where the front and rear driveshafts (and axles) and forced to turn at the exact same speed. The full-time mode tcase has a differential to allow different speeds front and rear, which allows for tighter turning...
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